sloTJ
Member
I have had a ratcheting issue I’ve chased for years now. Do these drivers look worn to anyone? What anti-ratchet drivers would be best for me to pick up to fix this issue? Track is very tight, just replaced both driveshaft bearings and chaincase tensioner, chain and oil and it still ratchets bad under accel and in deeper snow.
Also I’ve looked to see what track this is and I get no search results so wondering if anyone knows what track this is and if it’s even right for my drivers or the sled I’m general.
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Also I’ve looked to see what track this is and I get no search results so wondering if anyone knows what track this is and if it’s even right for my drivers or the sled I’m general.
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I have had a ratcheting issue I’ve chased for years now. Do these drivers look worn to anyone? What anti-ratchet drivers would be best for me to pick up to fix this issue? Track is very tight, just replaced both driveshaft bearings and chaincase tensioner, chain and oil and it still ratchets bad under accel and in deeper snow.
Also I’ve looked to see what track this is and I get no search results so wondering if anyone knows what track this is and if it’s even right for my drivers or the sled I’m general.
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Avid driver are great!! Try this, pull up the limiter in the front and then try it.. Yamaha is known to have this issue if the front lets out to much when under throttle. You will wheelie less but that should not matter if you are trailer riding.
sloTJ
Member
I also have adjustable transfer rods as well.
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sloTJ
Member
So essentially shorten the limiter straps or lengthen the adjustment there?
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Shorten them so you get more wrap on the driver under acceleration.
sloTJ
Member
Got it, I just ordered a fish scale thing to properly check track tension and my vmax has a viper skid in it if that makes any difference at all... thanks!
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Worn drivers can cause track ratchet issues as can a broken front W arm on your suspension.
If everything is in good condition, in the past prior to extrovert drivers, I used to adjust my track tension by track ratchet. I would run the track just tight enough that it wouldn't ratchet on acceleration.
Worked for me.
If everything is in good condition, in the past prior to extrovert drivers, I used to adjust my track tension by track ratchet. I would run the track just tight enough that it wouldn't ratchet on acceleration.
Worked for me.
Vincent
New member
Track adjustment aren't always as basic as X amount of weight and X amount of deflection while the rear of the sled is supported.... I have found my track always rachets following Yamaha specs.. I
keep tightening my track little by little t I'll the ratcheting stops.
As mentioned before, a properly maintained and functional rear suspension is important to
keep tightening my track little by little t I'll the ratcheting stops.
As mentioned before, a properly maintained and functional rear suspension is important to
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fish scale is not going to get you there. worn bushing flexing shafts etc are going to give you a false tension. set track tension by going out in the field and launching the sled. keep tightening until it goes away one turn at a time, then go out on a clean lake or groomed trail and do top end wot runs, tighten track until the speed drops then back it off. This is the sweet spot, every sleds is different. That being said, those drivers are worn and someone has lightened them already(nice) they can be pressed off and back on for a new power side surface. The tighter your skid bushings and shafts are, the more accurate your track tension will be. a wore out skid may push sideways under power. centering the track on a lift is not accurate. set it on the ground rolling to a stop without the brake. this will give a true center disregarding any of the possible wore out part issues. Adjusting track in the air is just how you start the adjustment, not the finish. Too tight can drag , too loose can drag on the tunnel and pile in front of the rail. And if your running an m10 with any kind of extension this is even worse