switching carbs from moutain settings to stock in redhead 700

HDYAMAHA84

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Dec 29, 2011
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north central Ohio
Hi guys, I picked a mountain max 700 and the carbs are setup for mountain. I wanna set em up for stock. I think #1 main jet needs to be 145 and 2&3 is 143.8 and the pilots are 45? what should the air screws be set at? also I know i need to change the clip postions? any help would be appreciated!! thanks
 

All the specs are in the tech section on this site, look at the top right of the pageand click on "TY Tech"
These sleds run pretty good on a straight 142.5 main jet in all three hole IMO.
But, all the carb and clutching specs are on that page.
If your having trouble, let me know what year it is and I can help you with the info as well.
 
Hi guys, I picked a mountain max 700 and the carbs are setup for mountain. I wanna set em up for stock. I think #1 main jet needs to be 145 and 2&3 is 143.8 and the pilots are 45? what should the air screws be set at? also I know i need to change the clip postions? any help would be appreciated!! thanks

Those are correct sir! Factory stock idles screws are 1.5 turns out. I find 1.75 turns out works better for me.

For the needles, stock E clip, clip in the 3 Rd notch with two washers under. I find triples benefit from raising the E clip by one notch ( keep washers in place) thus dropping the needles to leaner settings. This helps midrange response as they run too rich in stock form.

My location is 500 to 1000 ft elevation
 
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All the specs are in the tech section on this site, look at the top right of the pageand click on "TY Tech"
These sleds run pretty good on a straight 142.5 main jet in all three hole IMO.
But, all the carb and clutching specs are on that page.
If your having trouble, let me know what year it is and I can help you with the info as well.

Murder, that's two sizes down on the PTO, you think that's safe at under 1000ft?
I'd be careful, I use to observe my piston wash often when I had one of these sleds and never found the main jetting to be rich.
 
We have 4 sleds running them for over 3 years now. But, needles are in stock position.
I'm just thinking full throttle operation which is main jet only. I think 1 size down should have no issues unless the temperature drops below -15 celcius. How aggressively the sled is clutched can also play a factor.
 
I ended up putting them in the 3rd notch. Im under 1000ft. i havent ridden this sled so I dont know anything about it yet. but when I did change them I noticed there were no shims with clip? I dont see how a shim could even fit in the notch with the clip lol
 
Very important!
there should have been 2 white/transparent plastic washers with each needle.
Sometimes they stay in the slide and you cant even see them when they are wet, because they are kind of transparent.
You need to be 100% sure where they are, and make sure you didn't accidentally drop one on the ground.
Those washers can ruin your winter for sure.
 
Very important!
there should have been 2 white/transparent plastic washers with each needle.
Sometimes they stay in the slide and you cant even see them when they are wet, because they are kind of transparent.
You need to be 100% sure where they are, and make sure you didn't accidentally drop one on the ground.
Those washers can ruin your winter for sure.

Nope there were none! I'm wondering if whoever set the sled up for mountain eliminated them? I have another set of carbs so Ill pull the tops and check them out. I originally bought the other set to just swap out but when I got em they were not heated carbs so I just used the jets off the ones I bought
 
Yes, there should be washers in there but the location won't matter unless you are using new main nozzles.
 


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