Hi All. Awesome site here! I recently got an 03 SX Viper and am having a couple issues. I have searched and read sooooo many posts bit just haven't found a post about the exact issue having.
1. There is a whine/hum noise while moving that started a few miles after I got it. It reminds me of a car with a supercharger and is very similar to the deceleration noise that's related to engine braking, only quieter.. From what I've read, it sounds like a chain tension issue. I don't get the clunk others get, so I don't know that my chain is too loose. Since it started after I got it, I can't imagine it tightened up since then though. What's everyone's opinion? Is there an easy way to check without changing the fluid?
2.Speedo shuts off at idle. It comes right back as soon as I hit the throttle. I'm assuming stator, but don't just want to throw an $80 part at it. I don't think it's the harness since it's doesn't happen randomly and is directly related to to rpms. Whats everyone's thought on this?
Any and all information is much appreciated! And thanks in advance.
1. There is a whine/hum noise while moving that started a few miles after I got it. It reminds me of a car with a supercharger and is very similar to the deceleration noise that's related to engine braking, only quieter.. From what I've read, it sounds like a chain tension issue. I don't get the clunk others get, so I don't know that my chain is too loose. Since it started after I got it, I can't imagine it tightened up since then though. What's everyone's opinion? Is there an easy way to check without changing the fluid?
2.Speedo shuts off at idle. It comes right back as soon as I hit the throttle. I'm assuming stator, but don't just want to throw an $80 part at it. I don't think it's the harness since it's doesn't happen randomly and is directly related to to rpms. Whats everyone's thought on this?
Any and all information is much appreciated! And thanks in advance.
This is a screenshot of the SRX stator testing specs.The Viper uses the same one so they will be the values you'll be looking for.Get yourself a multimetre and test your stator,that should give you an better idea if there's a winding getting bad.
welcome to the site!
1- you can adjust the chain tension behind the muffler with the bolt next to the dipstick with the jam nut on it. loosen the jam nut and back the bolt out about 1/2". then tighten the bolt with your fingers until you cannot turn it any more. back it off 1/4 a turn and tighten the jam nut. check that there is oil in there with the dipstick while you are there.
2- these sleds where known to have rub throughs under the engine on the harness. if the stator tests good, i would check there next. is it idling at 1800 rpm?
1- you can adjust the chain tension behind the muffler with the bolt next to the dipstick with the jam nut on it. loosen the jam nut and back the bolt out about 1/2". then tighten the bolt with your fingers until you cannot turn it any more. back it off 1/4 a turn and tighten the jam nut. check that there is oil in there with the dipstick while you are there.
2- these sleds where known to have rub throughs under the engine on the harness. if the stator tests good, i would check there next. is it idling at 1800 rpm?
mod-it
Member
Maim has you covered on how to adjust the chain tension.
A pretty tight track will also humm/whine, so might check your track tension too.
As for the speedo shutting off...describe a little more please. Is the idle possibly so low that it is resetting? That's all your description sounds like to me since running the rpm's up makes it come back on. What rpm is it idling at?
When I lost my stator the dash would go blank and then come back on/reset when I switched from hi/low beam, and also when I hit the brake. As the stator got weaker my hand/thumb warmer quit working, it wasn't putting out enough juice to operate them. It was so weak by the end of that day that I could make it bog at about 7000 rpm by just turning the hand warmer switch on.
A pretty tight track will also humm/whine, so might check your track tension too.
As for the speedo shutting off...describe a little more please. Is the idle possibly so low that it is resetting? That's all your description sounds like to me since running the rpm's up makes it come back on. What rpm is it idling at?
When I lost my stator the dash would go blank and then come back on/reset when I switched from hi/low beam, and also when I hit the brake. As the stator got weaker my hand/thumb warmer quit working, it wasn't putting out enough juice to operate them. It was so weak by the end of that day that I could make it bog at about 7000 rpm by just turning the hand warmer switch on.
Four barrel - Thanks for the specs. I'll get out there and test it out.
Maim and mod it - exactly what I was looking for on the chain. Also will get the track tension checked. In regards to the cluster, it shuts off completely while at a low idle. Any blip of the throttle brings it right back on for a brief time until the idle drops back down. I am idling around 1,300 -1,400 RPMs, which is low if your saying I should be at 1,800. Figure I'll check the stator. If it's good, I'll be looking into adjusting the idle up to 1,800.
I'll try and post where I end up. Thanks a ton for everyone's help.
Maim and mod it - exactly what I was looking for on the chain. Also will get the track tension checked. In regards to the cluster, it shuts off completely while at a low idle. Any blip of the throttle brings it right back on for a brief time until the idle drops back down. I am idling around 1,300 -1,400 RPMs, which is low if your saying I should be at 1,800. Figure I'll check the stator. If it's good, I'll be looking into adjusting the idle up to 1,800.
I'll try and post where I end up. Thanks a ton for everyone's help.
mod-it
Member
That sound purely like it is just from too low of an idle. It should be at 1800. I'd do that first before worrying about checking the stator.
Does the sled come up smoothly from idle? It should pick up quickly with no bogging. Asking just so you don't have dirty pilot jets causing the low idle but then you crank the idle adjustment way up.
Does the sled come up smoothly from idle? It should pick up quickly with no bogging. Asking just so you don't have dirty pilot jets causing the low idle but then you crank the idle adjustment way up.
Sounds like the harness rub-through as others mentioned. The Viper also has 2 relays above you left foot. One of those does not close until rpm's get above a certain number (seems like 900 or so but unsure). Was a tech bulletin on the relay in 03 I think.
You can disconnect the wiring harness to the hood near the left side hinge, tie a string to it, loosen the metal holds (they just bend), and fish it out from under the engine. Then you can carefully inspect it and repair if needed. Use the string to pull it back in place and be sure to place in the holds and bend back so it doesn't contact something that will damage it.
You can disconnect the wiring harness to the hood near the left side hinge, tie a string to it, loosen the metal holds (they just bend), and fish it out from under the engine. Then you can carefully inspect it and repair if needed. Use the string to pull it back in place and be sure to place in the holds and bend back so it doesn't contact something that will damage it.
Hi Guys. Wanted to update what I found.
For the cluster cutting out, my idle was lower than I thought (under 1K RPM according the cluster). I adjusted the idle screw In until I got up around 1,600 - 1,800 RPM, which was right around a half turn. Seemed like a minor adjustment with good results. Cluster no longer cuts out, the idle is 100 times smoother, and performance is still great. Stator check out well too.. I'll pull the carbs and check the harness at the end of the season, but I think I'm good currently with where I stand. By all means though, let me know if any of this is seems like an issue.
As for the whine, It's still present after adjusting the tensioner (which was more than finger tight) and making sure the track wasn't too tight. I did fail to mention I have reverse though and I'm wondering it it's related to that. It appears to be coming from that area, so I'm leaning towards that or a bearing. It just doesn't strike me as a bearing issue though, but thats based on my experience in the auto industry, not experience with snowmobiles. Any other insight is always appreciated. Otherwise, I appreciate everyone's input so far!
For the cluster cutting out, my idle was lower than I thought (under 1K RPM according the cluster). I adjusted the idle screw In until I got up around 1,600 - 1,800 RPM, which was right around a half turn. Seemed like a minor adjustment with good results. Cluster no longer cuts out, the idle is 100 times smoother, and performance is still great. Stator check out well too.. I'll pull the carbs and check the harness at the end of the season, but I think I'm good currently with where I stand. By all means though, let me know if any of this is seems like an issue.
As for the whine, It's still present after adjusting the tensioner (which was more than finger tight) and making sure the track wasn't too tight. I did fail to mention I have reverse though and I'm wondering it it's related to that. It appears to be coming from that area, so I'm leaning towards that or a bearing. It just doesn't strike me as a bearing issue though, but thats based on my experience in the auto industry, not experience with snowmobiles. Any other insight is always appreciated. Otherwise, I appreciate everyone's input so far!
most snowmobiles whistle/whine when moving not under power. i tend to notice it more when going down a hill coasting.
You can play around with chain tension on the reverse models to minimize the noise (if it is coming from the chain). It seems that no two sleds behave the same and little changes make a difference in noise.
Or get a louder pipe (advice I once received) LOL - Actually I do not condone or recommend a louder pipe :-)
Or get a louder pipe (advice I once received) LOL - Actually I do not condone or recommend a louder pipe :-)
Finger tight and backing off 1/4 turn is still too tight IMO. I would back it off about one turn, or even try two turns temporarily to see if the whine goes away.