hey guys im hoping to find some help on a starting issue and running issue. i have a 1974 TL433F that has been in storage for a long time and i cant get it running. have done the carb clean, have spark, fuel is pumping. the crank case was fuel of fuel once i starting trying, it is now cleaned out and i still have had no luck?
RON HYDRAULIC YAM
Member
Hi Dylan
Couple things ....Rodents ... I have had them fill the lower muffler so tight the machine just cant breathe ...And part way up the upper muffler.
The carbs are bad for not drawing fuel each year ,,, I generally pull sled outside in case I burn it ,, and add a dribble of pre mix in each hole and if there is spark
and air , it should fire up and quit ... do this a few times and generally they run ....
A good shop vac generally will clear out mufflers when removed from sled.. Presuming new fuel ??
If you are still running the single sprocket drive ,, the clips will peel out if you tug sled backwards and they don't slide well on rubber...
With some fight , you can plug in an axle from 75 TL w/ double drive and change suspension if needed .. they were double drive
Ron
Couple things ....Rodents ... I have had them fill the lower muffler so tight the machine just cant breathe ...And part way up the upper muffler.
The carbs are bad for not drawing fuel each year ,,, I generally pull sled outside in case I burn it ,, and add a dribble of pre mix in each hole and if there is spark
and air , it should fire up and quit ... do this a few times and generally they run ....
A good shop vac generally will clear out mufflers when removed from sled.. Presuming new fuel ??
If you are still running the single sprocket drive ,, the clips will peel out if you tug sled backwards and they don't slide well on rubber...
With some fight , you can plug in an axle from 75 TL w/ double drive and change suspension if needed .. they were double drive
Ron
RON HYDRAULIC YAM
Member
Dylan ... I,m thinking you are North of ThunderBay ?? otherwise I have lots of mufflers at home..
Ron
Ron
thanks for the reply Ron, im outside of kitchener. new fuel, newer plugs, wires aren't great but spark is there with key in off positions?? i know fuel is getting to the engine as it was coming out exhaust at one point. got that fixed. thinking it must be air issue as wont start with fuel in cylinder? it did at the start but not now. also had muffler off when trying incase it as plugged. am getting some combustion as the odd flame shoots out y pipe with muffler off. lol enough for a little back fire and then it wont do anything again.
RON HYDRAULIC YAM
Member
Need to confirm something... Is this truly a 74 with red stripe hood and single drive ... or a 75 (built in 1974) with gold stripe and double drive ?? as they had reed valve....
Expect the sled is in neutral as sometimes people have broken the pivot on shifter and fastened them into drive and makes them harder to pull and even tell
if they have proper compression ... All that gas can wash the rings off and they need a little oil residue to seal ... 80psi plus would be nice for compression..
I think it is time to check compression,,, Any chance it was stored with dry pistons? Don't blow a thumb nail off BUT you should be able to feel and hear the compression .
Ron
Expect the sled is in neutral as sometimes people have broken the pivot on shifter and fastened them into drive and makes them harder to pull and even tell
if they have proper compression ... All that gas can wash the rings off and they need a little oil residue to seal ... 80psi plus would be nice for compression..
I think it is time to check compression,,, Any chance it was stored with dry pistons? Don't blow a thumb nail off BUT you should be able to feel and hear the compression .
Ron
Yes I believe it is a 74. Black and red stripe on hood with a black top seat with red sides.
Don’t have compressions tester but seems to be good compression. Yes sled is in neutral. Yes there is a good chance it was stored with dry pistons.
Can’t even get it to start and shut off with fuel down the cylinder?
Don’t have compressions tester but seems to be good compression. Yes sled is in neutral. Yes there is a good chance it was stored with dry pistons.
Can’t even get it to start and shut off with fuel down the cylinder?
RON HYDRAULIC YAM
Member
Look and see if the ground wire is broken off ,,, usually fastened to RH footrest to frame ?? ... These engines shut off by connecting both points together ... sort of odd...
PM me your email and I have some ign pages here at work I can send you....
Like most ignitions ,,,, grab onto a coil wire and see if it will light you up ,,, better still ask a friend /LOL
new burnable fuel , compression and spark close to TDC should fire ...
Unplug the key switch for fun ?
On my 74 I usually remove air box top and drizzle fuel in from a hose on a dimple oil can, with choke open, and since I seldom
ride them anymore ,,,, no fuel in tank and use a squeeze primer drawing from mix fuel can direct into carb and use same method
to get 4 in the trailer and off.
Ron
ps .. my idea of new fuel is fresh from pumps or had additive added at home... 6 week pump fuel is on its way to alcohol enriched water
and an octane lower than should burn..
PM me your email and I have some ign pages here at work I can send you....
Like most ignitions ,,,, grab onto a coil wire and see if it will light you up ,,, better still ask a friend /LOL
new burnable fuel , compression and spark close to TDC should fire ...
Unplug the key switch for fun ?
On my 74 I usually remove air box top and drizzle fuel in from a hose on a dimple oil can, with choke open, and since I seldom
ride them anymore ,,,, no fuel in tank and use a squeeze primer drawing from mix fuel can direct into carb and use same method
to get 4 in the trailer and off.
Ron
ps .. my idea of new fuel is fresh from pumps or had additive added at home... 6 week pump fuel is on its way to alcohol enriched water
and an octane lower than should burn..
ground wire looks good, itsw grounded under the muffler bolt/spring. i have determined i have a bad ignition coil (at times) i did get it running one one cylinder finally. BUt, i unplugged everything and still have spark?? this one got me. i will have a new ignition coil today and will try it and see what happens. as far as the fuel, i will get some new stuff back in there as well.
ok i changed one ignition coil and got it running. i also unplugged the ignition as something was wrong with it and isn't getting proper spark. it now runs and idles, i put it into drive but all it does it bog the engine down and the track wont spin (even on a stand and track off the ground). thanks again for the help.
RON HYDRAULIC YAM
Member
I don't know you well so I might sometimes ask silly things 
Can you pull the track around by hand ?? Was the parking latch left on and caliper stuck to disk ? Is there ice in chain case (track wouldn't turn )?
You had the muffler off ,,, is it back installed and are they both clear ???... shop vac test.
NOW the most common issue ,,, the Kehien carb ... I have taken them apart, seen nothing wrong 3 times and on the fourth time it will work...
Rather than play with them to go to a static show ,,, It becomes a two handed job ,, one flicking the choke control while other runs the throttle for air.
If these give it enough fuel to run then you have a carb issue.
One of my 75's have a tilley and works well but you need to mix..
Those tanks were bad for cracking 1/2 way up as well...
Ron
Can you pull the track around by hand ?? Was the parking latch left on and caliper stuck to disk ? Is there ice in chain case (track wouldn't turn )?
You had the muffler off ,,, is it back installed and are they both clear ???... shop vac test.
NOW the most common issue ,,, the Kehien carb ... I have taken them apart, seen nothing wrong 3 times and on the fourth time it will work...
Rather than play with them to go to a static show ,,, It becomes a two handed job ,, one flicking the choke control while other runs the throttle for air.
If these give it enough fuel to run then you have a carb issue.
One of my 75's have a tilley and works well but you need to mix..
Those tanks were bad for cracking 1/2 way up as well...
Ron
The track has a tight spot but you can muscle it around. Seems to turn better now that I did it a bunch times. White doing this I tried running it again and it disintegrated the plastic drive sprocket. Any idea where to get one of them? Does it seem normal to have a tight spot when turning track by hand?
last person that was looking for one that i know of had to get one built out of aluminum. my uncle threw all the ones we had in the scrap when we cleaned out at my grandmothers. i was pisssed.
RON HYDRAULIC YAM
Member
tight spot .... somewhere in every sled manual it states , loosen track for storage ... I think I did it once in 1975 
..
The 74's , TW and TL and probably GP had a blackish / dark green driver.... They were good for so long then shattered like chunks of glass ...
..
I bought one sled from Rochester NY just to get an almn one ,,, Cycle salvage in Peterborough used to have them machined when GP292's were hot
on the vintage race circuit , but I don't think they have them anymore .
...
Despite how they look when worn ... I'm sure you can use the older reddish ones from 72 and 73 ,, they wear diff on rear idler than the driver
but tend to stay together .... If you decide to fix it ... THE BOOK says and I did it with my TW433F ,,,loosen track totally , remove big nut on RH end of axle , pull off
the brg housing .. tuck the track as tight as possible into front of tunnel and pull the axle straight to the right.. and the axle sits in an insert in the chaincase and out it comes...
Little more difficult stuffing the new one in but works.... lock the hand brake on as the lack of cogs will let the chain turn.
...
Didn't say whether it reved up when adding choke but expect it did as it blew the cogs...
..
I have scrapped more of the double cog (1975-) units but do have some axles from EW643's with tough looking reddish cogs ....
..
So if you fix the drive , you may still have a poor carb...
What are your intensions ??? if nostalgia , go for it and I may have some parts...
The tracks came with no window holes under the sliders and also broke the crossers in the middle and the suspension was always cracking
and has a whopping 1" travel , etc ... so if you want to ride ,, find a newer sled ...
...
Rust gets in the frame between the double layer under engine ... most of the ones I scrapped had nothing left between the seat and the track
but the cross shafts for suspension .... and the darn tank will just split in its seam ... I had 6 of them stored away and had one split on a rider
and when I went to my stash they had all separated at the seam .. so another rider is parked.
....
I have about 39 of the fluid drives and wasn't looking for any more ,,,BUT see how you make out.
...
I forget how to add pictures here
Ron
..
The 74's , TW and TL and probably GP had a blackish / dark green driver.... They were good for so long then shattered like chunks of glass ...
..
I bought one sled from Rochester NY just to get an almn one ,,, Cycle salvage in Peterborough used to have them machined when GP292's were hot
on the vintage race circuit , but I don't think they have them anymore .
...
Despite how they look when worn ... I'm sure you can use the older reddish ones from 72 and 73 ,, they wear diff on rear idler than the driver
but tend to stay together .... If you decide to fix it ... THE BOOK says and I did it with my TW433F ,,,loosen track totally , remove big nut on RH end of axle , pull off
the brg housing .. tuck the track as tight as possible into front of tunnel and pull the axle straight to the right.. and the axle sits in an insert in the chaincase and out it comes...
Little more difficult stuffing the new one in but works.... lock the hand brake on as the lack of cogs will let the chain turn.
...
Didn't say whether it reved up when adding choke but expect it did as it blew the cogs...
..
I have scrapped more of the double cog (1975-) units but do have some axles from EW643's with tough looking reddish cogs ....
..
So if you fix the drive , you may still have a poor carb...
What are your intensions ??? if nostalgia , go for it and I may have some parts...
The tracks came with no window holes under the sliders and also broke the crossers in the middle and the suspension was always cracking
and has a whopping 1" travel , etc ... so if you want to ride ,, find a newer sled ...
...
Rust gets in the frame between the double layer under engine ... most of the ones I scrapped had nothing left between the seat and the track
but the cross shafts for suspension .... and the darn tank will just split in its seam ... I had 6 of them stored away and had one split on a rider
and when I went to my stash they had all separated at the seam .. so another rider is parked.
....
I have about 39 of the fluid drives and wasn't looking for any more ,,,BUT see how you make out.
...
I forget how to add pictures here
Ron
RON HYDRAULIC YAM
Member
ketusur
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I am getting some combustion as the odd flame shoots out y pipe with muffler off.
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