Hi all!
I'm going to convert my 1997 MM 700 to the dual bulb headlight tomorrow and I got a question about plugging it all in.
This is the parts I have:
-Dual headlight
-2x 35w H4 bulbs
-Speedometer
-Tach
-The plastic "housing"
-Windshield
-Hood harness from 2001 SXR
Are the connections in the two plugs for the hood harness the same on 1997 and 2001?
If so I would be able to just replace the old harness with the newer one and plug it all in?
If not I guess I'll have to track down what each calbe does and re-splice it.
I know there is some information about this somewhere in here but I could not find it and I don't live close to my sled so I can't check it before tomorrow.
Just wanted to be prepared - Thank you.
I'm going to convert my 1997 MM 700 to the dual bulb headlight tomorrow and I got a question about plugging it all in.
This is the parts I have:
-Dual headlight
-2x 35w H4 bulbs
-Speedometer
-Tach
-The plastic "housing"
-Windshield
-Hood harness from 2001 SXR
Are the connections in the two plugs for the hood harness the same on 1997 and 2001?
If so I would be able to just replace the old harness with the newer one and plug it all in?
If not I guess I'll have to track down what each calbe does and re-splice it.
I know there is some information about this somewhere in here but I could not find it and I don't live close to my sled so I can't check it before tomorrow.
Just wanted to be prepared - Thank you.
Jack99
Member
Factory headlight upgrade....
I did lighting upgrade on my 1999 and discovered lots of tips.
My Sled's factory system is 12 volt AC based. And, its max 75 Watts. 75 Watts for tail light, battery recharge (if your sled has a battery), dash lights and hand/thumb warmers. One should never exceed 90% of 75 watts or it over stresses the Stator system.
With above in mind on my sled, I simply:
- Left factory tail light "as is".
- Left factory dash lights "as is".
- Replaced is 1 x H4 Halogen bulb with 1 x H4 "dc power" LED bulb. See attachment for exact bulb I used.
- 12 volt LED bulbs want "clean" DC power. For this, I simply took my sled's reverse wire (little brown wire) and connected wire to my sled's handle bar H/L light switch button. After all "real watts" usage calculations my sled is still using might brighter 1 x headlight and it under 90% of 75 Watts. It would be too much power draw for 2 x H4 LED bulbs. 2 x H4 halogen bulbs would be way over the top. Ouch!
If your sled has battery &/or reverse wire, I would recommend the "clean DC power" upgrade method - using 1 LED bulb as well. 1 x motorcycle bulb (with internal cavity fan) works great on my 1999 Venture...
re:
I did lighting upgrade on my 1999 and discovered lots of tips.
My Sled's factory system is 12 volt AC based. And, its max 75 Watts. 75 Watts for tail light, battery recharge (if your sled has a battery), dash lights and hand/thumb warmers. One should never exceed 90% of 75 watts or it over stresses the Stator system.
With above in mind on my sled, I simply:
- Left factory tail light "as is".
- Left factory dash lights "as is".
- Replaced is 1 x H4 Halogen bulb with 1 x H4 "dc power" LED bulb. See attachment for exact bulb I used.
- 12 volt LED bulbs want "clean" DC power. For this, I simply took my sled's reverse wire (little brown wire) and connected wire to my sled's handle bar H/L light switch button. After all "real watts" usage calculations my sled is still using might brighter 1 x headlight and it under 90% of 75 Watts. It would be too much power draw for 2 x H4 LED bulbs. 2 x H4 halogen bulbs would be way over the top. Ouch!
If your sled has battery &/or reverse wire, I would recommend the "clean DC power" upgrade method - using 1 LED bulb as well. 1 x motorcycle bulb (with internal cavity fan) works great on my 1999 Venture...
re:
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Hi och thanks for giving a detailed description of how to do the "DC/LED-mod" - I was thinking of going this way eventually.
I want the dual bulb mainly aesthetic reasons - it looks cool - Also I have already bought the parts
The 2x 35w bulbs will draw a bit more power than the original 60w but I got a LED rear/break and no battery.
There is a couple of people running 35w's with the older electrical system and it works fine so I will go that route to start with and buy LED's later (have to order from ebay).
/Anton
I want the dual bulb mainly aesthetic reasons - it looks cool - Also I have already bought the parts
The 2x 35w bulbs will draw a bit more power than the original 60w but I got a LED rear/break and no battery.
There is a couple of people running 35w's with the older electrical system and it works fine so I will go that route to start with and buy LED's later (have to order from ebay).
/Anton
MURDER YAMAHA
VIP Life Member
I have used Jacks method as well with great success on 2 different 97's.
I did the same, got a new hood harness, mine plugged right in.
But, like he said, use 2 LED bulbs, not 2 Halogens or you may wreck things right off the bat.
I used (2) 22 Watt LED's. I also did a LED tailight (not necessary, and requires more wiring).
The brown wire is by the right footwell. Its on a 2 wire plug, along with a pink wire I believe.
That brown wire get run to the blue wire on the hi/lo switch, and the current blue wire powering that switch gets capped.
I did the same, got a new hood harness, mine plugged right in.
But, like he said, use 2 LED bulbs, not 2 Halogens or you may wreck things right off the bat.
I used (2) 22 Watt LED's. I also did a LED tailight (not necessary, and requires more wiring).
The brown wire is by the right footwell. Its on a 2 wire plug, along with a pink wire I believe.
That brown wire get run to the blue wire on the hi/lo switch, and the current blue wire powering that switch gets capped.
Jack99
Member
Many folks don't know the difference between 12 volt AC vrs 12 volt DC power. Some folks think of "plug in - if it works then leave it" approach.
Here's some other details to think about.
Install what you think might works (like 2 x H4 Halogen bulbs or 1 x DC LED bulb), start sled and let it idle. If lighting is flickering up/down at idle, its the wrong current flow. Or, its over stressing the factory stator system. In time, it will blow something - like factory stator coils / rectifier. Ouch!
If wondering, I installed, went on night drive and in middle of no man's land, I lots high beam. Wimped back home hoping my low beam circuit held up. After that outing, I installed "clean" DC power. And, its been working great since. Yes. I was lucky no long term harm was done.
If you do plan to use AC power, use AC rated bulbs. And, keep their watts consumption low. Surf: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/328...&terminal_id=492187e0c7444815a1f2448dd0e38eb9 to find a few 12 Volt AC bulbs that might work...
Hope this helps as well...
Here's some other details to think about.
Install what you think might works (like 2 x H4 Halogen bulbs or 1 x DC LED bulb), start sled and let it idle. If lighting is flickering up/down at idle, its the wrong current flow. Or, its over stressing the factory stator system. In time, it will blow something - like factory stator coils / rectifier. Ouch!
If wondering, I installed, went on night drive and in middle of no man's land, I lots high beam. Wimped back home hoping my low beam circuit held up. After that outing, I installed "clean" DC power. And, its been working great since. Yes. I was lucky no long term harm was done.
If you do plan to use AC power, use AC rated bulbs. And, keep their watts consumption low. Surf: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/328...&terminal_id=492187e0c7444815a1f2448dd0e38eb9 to find a few 12 Volt AC bulbs that might work...
Hope this helps as well...
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I have used Jacks method as well with great success on 2 different 97's.
I did the same, got a new hood harness, mine plugged right in.
But, like he said, use 2 LED bulbs, not 2 Halogens or you may wreck things right off the bat.
I used (2) 22 Watt LED's. I also did a LED tailight (not necessary, and requires more wiring).
The brown wire is by the right footwell. Its on a 2 wire plug, along with a pink wire I believe.
That brown wire get run to the blue wire on the hi/lo switch, and the current blue wire powering that switch gets capped.
Ok, you two got me convinced not go for the dual 35w setup for now - I will order some LED's and run with a single bulb in the headlight until I get them.
Sounds really nice if I just have to plug in the 2001 SXR harness, almost a bit too good to be true
Thank you very much Murder and Jack99!
Here is the ride BTW:
-1997 MM
-Bone stock clutch and engine
-Boss seat
-2" riser block
-2002 SXR steering column (it snapped, lol)
-Really nice 1" track
-Reverse
Will look a bit better with dual bulb and the low smoketinted windshield that I'm borrowing from my SRX.
Attachments
MURDER YAMAHA
VIP Life Member
Jack99
Member
If your sled has factory reverse, does it also have a factory reverse BEEPER? Hoping Yes. If yes, simply disconnect its little brown wire (from beeper) and re-direct its wiring line to handle bars' H/L switch. Install inline 4 Amp fuse under the handlebar pad area. And, install 1 x 12 Volt DC motorcycle bulb - like shown in my above post. Being a motorcycle bulb, its rated for high bumps / vibrations and also has internal light assembly cavity fan - which helps melt snow off its front lens surface. And being motorcycle class bulb, it doesn't have an external anti-flicker module box - like many vehicle LED bulbs need. Win-win on many different fronts...
Jack99
Member
If going with 2 x LED bulb method, remember to keep below 70 "total" watts. And, it is best to use motorcycle rated LED bulb.
If going with 2 x LED bulbs, I would probably try 2 x below LEDs with confidence. This black bulb consumes less watts compared to my above mentioned 1 x LED bulb. If wondering, this was my Plan B LED bulb for my 1999 sled - if my first Plan A 1 x LED bulb didn't work properly.
Hope this Plan B LED bulb for 2 x LEDs helps as well...
If going with 2 x LED bulbs, I would probably try 2 x below LEDs with confidence. This black bulb consumes less watts compared to my above mentioned 1 x LED bulb. If wondering, this was my Plan B LED bulb for my 1999 sled - if my first Plan A 1 x LED bulb didn't work properly.
Hope this Plan B LED bulb for 2 x LEDs helps as well...
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low slung
Member
Seem to remember the stator getting upgraded on the 700 SXR to power the dual bulb units(more juice)...?
MURDER YAMAHA
VIP Life Member
Yep, mine are actually only rated at 16 Watts a piece, but are very bright as you can see.
Jack99
Member
echohunter
New member
Jack ...I'm looking for answers for exactly this issue on 2 sleds right now too .. .your post isn't a link tho ..it's just a pic ..and it doesn't actually show what the bulb is- brand, model, etc. .- ...can you post which actual bulb this is for the dual headlites?. .please ...and thanks
Johnny
Johnny
try 2 x below LEDs with confidence.
Hope this Plan B LED bulb for 2 x LEDs helps as well...
View attachment 66148
echohunter
New member
I just bought another led bulb on amazon and tried it last nite and it wasn't a fun ride ...the high beam wouldn't work now and not very bright ...so hoping what Jack posted may be the good answer . .
Jack99
Member
For the LED bulb I used, surf Amazon at:
Canada: https://www.amazon.ca/DZG-Motorcycl...28&sprefix=motorcycle+led+bulb,aps,181&sr=8-5
For usa Amazon, simply visit amazon.com and surf for: DZG H4 Motorcycle LED Headlight Bulb 9003
Note: This is a "DC (direct current)" 12 volts LED bulb. Before using, ensure you use a "clean" DC Power source - like using Reverse Beeper "brown" wire or manual off/on master toggle switch directly off battery. LED DC Bulbs do NOT work on AC electrical systems.
Canada: https://www.amazon.ca/DZG-Motorcycl...28&sprefix=motorcycle+led+bulb,aps,181&sr=8-5
For usa Amazon, simply visit amazon.com and surf for: DZG H4 Motorcycle LED Headlight Bulb 9003
Note: This is a "DC (direct current)" 12 volts LED bulb. Before using, ensure you use a "clean" DC Power source - like using Reverse Beeper "brown" wire or manual off/on master toggle switch directly off battery. LED DC Bulbs do NOT work on AC electrical systems.
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Jack99
Member
I just bought another led bulb on amazon and tried it last nite and it wasn't a fun ride ...the high beam wouldn't work now and not very bright ...so hoping what Jack posted may be the good answer . .
Did you remove factory H4 Halogen yellowish bulb and simply "plug in" the LED DC H4 bulb? If you did, the high beam will NOT work. And in the long run, its low beam it it will over stress your Sled's Stator system. Using a DC bulb on AC system also means that is only running at 50%. To get 100% lighting, one needs DC power to DC LED bulbs.
For many DC LED bulbs to work properly, one must use a "clean" DC Power wire/source. For example:
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Jack99
Member
If installing 2 x LED DC bulbs, I would recommend
Amazon Canada surf: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07WF56P1Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I'm sure same LED DC bulb can be found in USA Amazon as well.
Note: Motorcycle 12 volt DC LED bulb shows a max of 30 Watts. After lots of testing, I found that 30W is a "start up". After 1 second startup phase, they average watts usage is within 75-80% range. So... Take 2 x 30 watts = 60 watts @ 80% = 48W "running" watts usage. Well under the max 75W stator system.
Best thing about Amazon... If you don't like the product under 2 weeks, simply send it back - for a full refund.
Hope this helps as well...
Amazon Canada surf: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07WF56P1Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I'm sure same LED DC bulb can be found in USA Amazon as well.
Note: Motorcycle 12 volt DC LED bulb shows a max of 30 Watts. After lots of testing, I found that 30W is a "start up". After 1 second startup phase, they average watts usage is within 75-80% range. So... Take 2 x 30 watts = 60 watts @ 80% = 48W "running" watts usage. Well under the max 75W stator system.
Best thing about Amazon... If you don't like the product under 2 weeks, simply send it back - for a full refund.
Hope this helps as well...
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echohunter
New member
Jack..I very much appreciate your assistance..and I should have stated the sleds I'm working on..2000 Mtn Max 600 and 2001 Mountain max 700..the 700 may be a 2002 possibly...its a buddies sled and I'm not certain...its the one with dual bulbs ..can I assume these would fall in the same category and use the same bulbs as you describe here?..and one other question ..on the wiring diagram..when using the brown reverse wire..is there only one wire in the loom to connect it up too in the high low switch?...sorry ..one more ?...assuming these sleds would have the reverse wire??..thanks
Johnny
Johnny
Jack99
Member
Method 1 - / method that I used:
Note: Assume brown wire going to Sled's reverse beeper.
- Disconnect this "clean" DC 12 volts" factory wire - that is connected sled's reverse beeper / buzzer.
- Install a new 12 volt wire from this connector, up the handle bar column and in between the steering wheel center safety pad.
- Behind the steering wheel center pad, install inline 12 volt in-line fuse. For sizing, take (2 x 30 amps)/12, then round up to next size up. re: 2 bulbs x 30 Amps = 60. Take 60W/12V = 5 AMP fuse. Since the fuse must be the weakest melt point, ensure wire gauge is also rated for more that 5 amps. re: use 12 gauge 12 volt wire @ max 4 feet long.
- Find main wire (which is 12 volt AC current) flowing into headlight's H/L beam. Cut that wire and cap its end.
- Take the fused side of the DC wire and splice into the headlight's H/L beam switch - where you cut its factory AC wire.
To visualize above text, simply take blank paper and draw it out.
Method #2 - wire off battery "+" post:
Note: Assume your sled has 12 volt battery for its electric start:
- Connect short 6"-8" long wire to battery's "+" post. Wire thickness should be 12 gauge.
- Install 12 Volt in-line Fuse holder. Use 5 Amp or 6 Amp fuse.
- Install manual toggle switch (called master light switch) on sled's dash.
- Run 12 gauge wire from Fuse Holder to this toggle switch.
- Install a new 12 guage wire from Toggle Switch up the handle bar column and in between the steering wheel center safety pad.
- Find main wire (which is 12 volt AC current) flowing into headlight's H/L beam. Cut that wire and cap its end.
- Take the fused side of the DC wire and splice into the headlight's H/L beam switch - where you cut its factory AC wire.
- For this method, custom toggle switch must be ON to allow clean DC power to the handle bar headlight H/L button. At end of the ride, simply turn the toggle switch off. yes. Crude manual method (compared to auto off Reverse wire method) but this works as well....
To visualize above text, simply take blank paper and draw it out.
Hope this helps...
Note: Assume brown wire going to Sled's reverse beeper.
- Disconnect this "clean" DC 12 volts" factory wire - that is connected sled's reverse beeper / buzzer.
- Install a new 12 volt wire from this connector, up the handle bar column and in between the steering wheel center safety pad.
- Behind the steering wheel center pad, install inline 12 volt in-line fuse. For sizing, take (2 x 30 amps)/12, then round up to next size up. re: 2 bulbs x 30 Amps = 60. Take 60W/12V = 5 AMP fuse. Since the fuse must be the weakest melt point, ensure wire gauge is also rated for more that 5 amps. re: use 12 gauge 12 volt wire @ max 4 feet long.
- Find main wire (which is 12 volt AC current) flowing into headlight's H/L beam. Cut that wire and cap its end.
- Take the fused side of the DC wire and splice into the headlight's H/L beam switch - where you cut its factory AC wire.
To visualize above text, simply take blank paper and draw it out.
Method #2 - wire off battery "+" post:
Note: Assume your sled has 12 volt battery for its electric start:
- Connect short 6"-8" long wire to battery's "+" post. Wire thickness should be 12 gauge.
- Install 12 Volt in-line Fuse holder. Use 5 Amp or 6 Amp fuse.
- Install manual toggle switch (called master light switch) on sled's dash.
- Run 12 gauge wire from Fuse Holder to this toggle switch.
- Install a new 12 guage wire from Toggle Switch up the handle bar column and in between the steering wheel center safety pad.
- Find main wire (which is 12 volt AC current) flowing into headlight's H/L beam. Cut that wire and cap its end.
- Take the fused side of the DC wire and splice into the headlight's H/L beam switch - where you cut its factory AC wire.
- For this method, custom toggle switch must be ON to allow clean DC power to the handle bar headlight H/L button. At end of the ride, simply turn the toggle switch off. yes. Crude manual method (compared to auto off Reverse wire method) but this works as well....
To visualize above text, simply take blank paper and draw it out.
Hope this helps...
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First off: Big thanks to you Jack99, you really take your time to explain everything in detail for me and others.
Also: Very nice sled, I hope you and your son get some nice rides this winter!
Last weekend I found out that the newer style harness did not plug into the older sleds plugs so I just rode it like it was/is.
During this ride the center shock broke and the spring went into the drivewheels and after some mendin I managed to slowly drive 4km to nearest road and tow the sled home.
I then ordered a new shock from a venture and also 2x 30w LED's from Amazon (europe).
This past week I found electrical diagrams to make sure all cables would go to the right places when I splice the harnesses together and I also modified the rubber boots to work with the new LEDs.
Tonight when I was about to install the new shock I saw that the skid is trash - last time I looked it was -10 celcius and full of ice/snow and today it was much warmer so everything had melted.
So.. the dual bulb project is on pause and I might just part this sled out .
If so the dual bulbs will probably end up on my 2000 SRX 700 so I get to ride short track for the rest of the season.
Also, that is a pretty cool sled you got there MURDER YAMAHA - very cool to see the dual bulb on an older sled.
Thanks guys - will update here later.
Have a nice weekend.
Also: Very nice sled, I hope you and your son get some nice rides this winter!
Last weekend I found out that the newer style harness did not plug into the older sleds plugs so I just rode it like it was/is.
During this ride the center shock broke and the spring went into the drivewheels and after some mendin I managed to slowly drive 4km to nearest road and tow the sled home.
I then ordered a new shock from a venture and also 2x 30w LED's from Amazon (europe).
This past week I found electrical diagrams to make sure all cables would go to the right places when I splice the harnesses together and I also modified the rubber boots to work with the new LEDs.
Tonight when I was about to install the new shock I saw that the skid is trash - last time I looked it was -10 celcius and full of ice/snow and today it was much warmer so everything had melted.
So.. the dual bulb project is on pause and I might just part this sled out .
If so the dual bulbs will probably end up on my 2000 SRX 700 so I get to ride short track for the rest of the season.
Also, that is a pretty cool sled you got there MURDER YAMAHA - very cool to see the dual bulb on an older sled.
Thanks guys - will update here later.
Have a nice weekend.