Phazer gears

8

88transam

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Joined
Jan 20, 2021
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Location
Prince Edward Island
Have a 90 piped phazer 2,sled work very well now I have the clutches set up,wondering about and gearing changes I can do for a little better top end/rpms down for cruising,sleds pulling good all the way to 70mph+ just feels hitting a wall at top speed like it would pull.more if not running out of gear
 

Up to 1990 the Phazer came with the older style triple link chain. Stock gearing was 17/29. Lots of options available up to 22 tooth top gear if I recall correctly but you may only be able to go up one tooth without needing a longer chain. If your chain case has been upgraded to a 91 or newer they use the silent chain with fewer options. I believe the max top gear available was an 18 tooth.
 
Thanks for the reply yeah it has the stock 17 29 now any idea if a exciter chain case will fit??I have a couple spare just thinking the excitercase will be easier to find sprockets for, I have jackshafts and drive cogs also
 
I had a "90" Phazer brand new piped, ported, & dual 38 flat slide. Beat a lot of sleds with that machine that I had no business being competitive with. Also an 84 Phazer with just a pipe before that. You want to go up one tooth to 18. Trust me, It is like the magic gearing for that sled. It will actually accelerate harder that the stock gears & get you a top speed in the mid 80s on radar or GPS. If you go up 2 teeth it will turn into a dog for riding around and will only get you 3 to 4 mph more on ice. The 19 won't pull any more on packed snow that the 18 tooth. You may need to do something to get the engagement up to at least 4,000 rpm. Maybe 4,500 depending on what kind of track & how many studs you have.
 
When you say hitting a wall at 70+ is that on the speedo or gps? Is this on hardpack? You should be able to see at least 80 mph on speedo on hardpack with stock gears. Who's pipe? What is the shift rpm at? Think I have enough question :) Sorry, just trying to help.
 
BornYamaha said:
When you say hitting a wall at 70+ is that on the speedo or gps? Is this on hardpack? You should be able to see at least 80 mph on speedo on hardpack with stock gears. Who's pipe? What is the shift rpm at? Think I have enough question :) Sorry, just trying to help.
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That's 70 GPS,yeah its on hardpack,speedo is right around the 80 it's a psi pipe with a red and brown spring in the primary,87f weights,b2 on the secondary 7200 to 7300 rpms,I did some mild porting,more less cleaning up on the cylinders last year with new top end and crank seals
 
If you are shifting at 7200+ rpm and only hitting 70mph your clutches are not shifting out all the way. Mark the surface of both the primary and secondary with a permanent marker and check to see how far up the belt rides. A worn belt or not properly adjusting the spacer shims inside the secondary in the secondary will significantly affect your top speed.
 
NorthofSixty said:
If you are shifting at 7200+ rpm and only hitting 70mph your clutches are not shifting out all the way. Mark the surface of both the primary and secondary with a permanent marker and check to see how far up the belt rides. A worn belt or not properly adjusting the spacer shims inside the secondary in the secondary will significantly affect your top speed.
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Ya it was 72 or 73 GPS,speedo was north of 80,belt is not brand new but only not real old,is probably time to take a shim out or close to it,against a stock phazer I get 3 lengths out of the hole then hold that for a long ways then start to pull on top again
 
You should see if you can find a torque arm for that sled as well. That engine really moves around in there. More than most sleds. The miss alignment when it does that doesn't help anything. I also cut the rubber motor mounts in half and took up the space with washers. The torque arm helps more than the washers. My 2 cents :)
 
What track are you running? A worn original track will have a lot of slip as compared to say a new 1-1/4 Ripsaw on hardpack. The less you hook up the bigger the difference between the GPS and speedo. The other thing that affects the GPS is the log interval between readings. If it is set too long you can easily miss your top speed. I know mine is adjustable from 1 second to 10 minutes intervals.
 
1 inch no studs traction is an issue but still will hold skis hooks up decent on hard trails,ya service around here is fair to say the least,in theory gearing up a little with less spinning should be quicker I was always found,but not to.much to make it a dog,just wondering on some set ups that someone has tried because I'm going to have a hard time finding gears period we usually run 55 60 mph most of the time and I would give a little bottom end for better rpms at cruising speeds
 
I would just try going up one tooth to an 18/29 as BornYamaha suggested. The other alternative is to change your drive wheels up to 9 tooth from your stock 8 tooth. You would have to check the current clearance between your 1” lug and the bulk head to see if it would still clear with 9 tooth drives. The larger drives are also more efficient with less rolling resistance. You can then play around with the clutching and gearing to get the bottom end you need.
 
Ok thanks,I have a set of 9 tooth drivers here out of my exciter it looks to be awfully close under there now may try it someday our season here is near over,and keep an eye on eBay for a 18 sprocket
 
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