Cbox
New member
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- Feb 27, 2022
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- 5
Hi, thanks for all the info so far and any suggestions. 2002 Venture 600 with about 4000 miles, has run great for the 12 years I had it, but must confess this is my first carb cleaning or issue at all. Use only non oxy gas and I’m in MN. Seafoam periodically but not a lot.
Anyway, out of the blue it lost power and my kid limped it back. Changed plugs and took it for quick spin and it ran great (really cold weather, -25ish). Didn’t use it again and when we started it again a week or so later, same thing but worse. Starts fine, idles but any throttle and it bogs. Now it won’t even engage track. I have it in garage and followed carb 101 steps. Twice.
Only thing I didn’t do was blow the air vent holes, and it fuel screw was originally set to 3, factory says 2, so I now have it set to 2 and it idles way too low, less than 1000.
The bowl was spotless clean even before “cleaning” and pilot jet was clean, I made sure with wire and air. Main jets too.
I adjusted throttle cable so there is play before engaging and it “appears” the tors pivot is working properly. I did not clean or do anything with tors, other than disengaging the plugs and trying bypass, which didn’t do anything to the throttle response.
I also checked compression and all the same at about 120 or a bit above.
I started it and removed one plug cap at a time, and the drop in engine “sounds” was same for each plug, so it appears each is firing. I also tested spark with inline tester and each seems to have good spark. The 1 and 2 plugs are oily and black, #3 (starboard) is whiter and dry, and when we did run it a bit and checked plugs #3 seemed hot and smoking when we pulled it, 1 and 2 did not do this, if that matters.
I plan to take carbs off again and set the fuel screw back to 3 turns, or maybe 2.5 since idle is so low now. Unless you tell me not to. I also will look for jet numbers, I didn’t but almost positive that they are stock as I bought this from relatives who I don’t think would have changed it in the first 1000 miles when they were original owners.
I am not mechanic at all, but have successfully cleaned and rebuilt carbs on outboards and on my two Polaris twins, and rebuilt fuel pumps…. So know just enough to be dangerous. This be has me stumped though, and I read through each tutorial here and watched you tube vids and trying to figure it out.
I did not adjust float level at all. And did not take a parts tors switch or throttle tors switch. Hopefully just I need another pilot jet clean, but man they were totally clean! Help!
Thanks!
Anyway, out of the blue it lost power and my kid limped it back. Changed plugs and took it for quick spin and it ran great (really cold weather, -25ish). Didn’t use it again and when we started it again a week or so later, same thing but worse. Starts fine, idles but any throttle and it bogs. Now it won’t even engage track. I have it in garage and followed carb 101 steps. Twice.
Only thing I didn’t do was blow the air vent holes, and it fuel screw was originally set to 3, factory says 2, so I now have it set to 2 and it idles way too low, less than 1000.
The bowl was spotless clean even before “cleaning” and pilot jet was clean, I made sure with wire and air. Main jets too.
I adjusted throttle cable so there is play before engaging and it “appears” the tors pivot is working properly. I did not clean or do anything with tors, other than disengaging the plugs and trying bypass, which didn’t do anything to the throttle response.
I also checked compression and all the same at about 120 or a bit above.
I started it and removed one plug cap at a time, and the drop in engine “sounds” was same for each plug, so it appears each is firing. I also tested spark with inline tester and each seems to have good spark. The 1 and 2 plugs are oily and black, #3 (starboard) is whiter and dry, and when we did run it a bit and checked plugs #3 seemed hot and smoking when we pulled it, 1 and 2 did not do this, if that matters.
I plan to take carbs off again and set the fuel screw back to 3 turns, or maybe 2.5 since idle is so low now. Unless you tell me not to. I also will look for jet numbers, I didn’t but almost positive that they are stock as I bought this from relatives who I don’t think would have changed it in the first 1000 miles when they were original owners.
I am not mechanic at all, but have successfully cleaned and rebuilt carbs on outboards and on my two Polaris twins, and rebuilt fuel pumps…. So know just enough to be dangerous. This be has me stumped though, and I read through each tutorial here and watched you tube vids and trying to figure it out.
I did not adjust float level at all. And did not take a parts tors switch or throttle tors switch. Hopefully just I need another pilot jet clean, but man they were totally clean! Help!
Thanks!
do you know when fuel filter was last replaced? seen them fall apart from age and cause issues.
you need to check for air leaks/folded boots/crank seal on that #3 cyl as white is not good.
you need to check for air leaks/folded boots/crank seal on that #3 cyl as white is not good.
Cbox
New member
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- Feb 27, 2022
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- 5
Thanks! Actually I am pretty sure the fuel filter has never been replaced. I need to get a manual or service manual and look for that. I don’t think the pdf manual link is working here, when I looked.
I will check the boots again, but pretty sure they were okay.I can try to spray starting fluid around it while running if that might be something to try.
I am not sure how to check crank seals.. Can a moderately knowledgeable person check it?
Edit - also from reading more posts, could it be a broken/reed? Would that also cause the white plug? Thanks.
Thanks for your advice!
Last edited:
That might do it too.
As to the crank seal you spray either or brake cleaner at it while it is running and see if it picks up rpm.
Fuel filter just gets fished out through the filler neck with white plastic sleeve out. I usually use a coat hanger and hold the hose with pliers as it is tight to do.
As to the crank seal you spray either or brake cleaner at it while it is running and see if it picks up rpm.
Fuel filter just gets fished out through the filler neck with white plastic sleeve out. I usually use a coat hanger and hold the hose with pliers as it is tight to do.
Cbox
New member
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- Feb 27, 2022
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Man they don’t give you much play with the filter… I can’t even get the filter all the way out (without the white) to get at the clamp. I am afraid to stretch the hose far enough. Otherwise would I have to remove the elbow above the fuel pump? Probably add a new hose inside that adds a few inches for future easier replacement?… would that any issues?
Just got around to working on it again…. Wife got a new hip…. Ugh…
Thanks!
Box
Just got around to working on it again…. Wife got a new hip…. Ugh…
Thanks!
Box
Cbox
New member
- Joined
- Feb 27, 2022
- Messages
- 5
I couldn’t get filter off, will ask local parts place for filter and any advice….but I didn’t change it yet.
Well, I cleaned the carbs again… carb cleaner and air on all openings, all seemed good.
Set it to 2.75 turns (book says 2, it was at 3, I sort of split difference).
Made sure throttle cable had play.
Started great, I adjusted idle screw up to 1600 rpm. Idles real good it seemed
Gave it some throttle and it almost seemed like it was going to go and then it bogged bad. I took of 1 and 2 plugs and it didn’t affect engine. Took off plug 3 and it died. So it isn’t 3 that is bad it must be 1 and 2. They had gas in them when pulled out to inspect. The 3 plug looked fine.
I am beyond my skills here I guess. Not sure what it might be or what to do next. I guess I could swap coils but I have spark on all. Could they still be bad?
I did notice when I put the #2 plug wire back on it kind of hiccuped and backfired once.
Could it simply be flooding somehow in those two cylinders?.?….
It shows I am not a mechanic, better keep my day job….
thanks for any advice.
-Box
Well, I cleaned the carbs again… carb cleaner and air on all openings, all seemed good.
Set it to 2.75 turns (book says 2, it was at 3, I sort of split difference).
Made sure throttle cable had play.
Started great, I adjusted idle screw up to 1600 rpm. Idles real good it seemed
Gave it some throttle and it almost seemed like it was going to go and then it bogged bad. I took of 1 and 2 plugs and it didn’t affect engine. Took off plug 3 and it died. So it isn’t 3 that is bad it must be 1 and 2. They had gas in them when pulled out to inspect. The 3 plug looked fine.
I am beyond my skills here I guess. Not sure what it might be or what to do next. I guess I could swap coils but I have spark on all. Could they still be bad?
I did notice when I put the #2 plug wire back on it kind of hiccuped and backfired once.
Could it simply be flooding somehow in those two cylinders?.?….
It shows I am not a mechanic, better keep my day job….
thanks for any advice.-Box
Might be the “enrichment circuit”. (Choke) This only used when the engine is not fully warmed up. The circuit starts at the airbox side, there is a small air passage about the 5 o’clock position. With he carb off, place a brake cleaner nozzle in that hole and see if the fluid will come out the other end of the carb. A very small hole in top of the bore. (Engine side) You might have to take the cable off, plus the brass plunger to get it to flow. This however should not affect engine operation at normal operating temperature.
could be those floats/needles are bad.
Cbox
New member
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- Feb 27, 2022
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Would I just need the floats and needle, or is there some way to replace seat as well? I didn’t recall seeing a way to remove a seat part. Thanks!
Box
1UY-14185-00-00 | FLOAT |
33 | 1AE-14190-13-00 | NEEDLE VALVE ASSY | | Add To Wishlist
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33 | 1AE-14190-12-00 | NEEDLE VALVE ASSY |
the needle comes with new seat according to the parts fiche (yamaha parts finder) at the top right of the page. i do not know why there are 2 part # for the needle assembly. been awhile since i had to do it on a slide carb as been playing with old butterfly stuff lately.