Couple of issues

[batracing17]

I purchased a 2002 SXR 600 triple. A lot of sled for me but it was a good deal.
This thing is a beast cold start, practically rips my arms off. I take the air box off, spray some carb cleaner inside the carbs and it pulls over no problem. I don't want to have to do that every time and I know it's not the best solution. Any suggestions? It has the option for an electric start but a few people said they didn't like it because the battery is usually dead when you need it most.
Also, I lightly press the throttle and all it does is rev. I keep slowly pressing the throttle, and it revs more until it decides to take off like a shot. Doing this in reverse is worse. It practically throws me over the windshield. Is there an adjustment I can make to prevent this?
I am very mechanically inclined (at least with vehicles) and always willing to learn how to fix anything.

 

[ironman_gq]

Can't help with the starting, your trying to spin 3 cylinders, it's going to take some effort. As for the reving, start with the clutch, see what primary spring is in there. If that's all stock, try a new belt. My bet is someone put a higher engagment spring in the primary or swapped the weights out for some that have an engagement notch in them. Clutches could just need a good cleaning as well, make sure all the rollers roll smoothly, weight pivot smoothly, sheaves slide smoothly. A worn belt will also cause high engagment, they get narrower and require the primary to close farther before it bites on the belt.

 

[batracing17]

Can't help with the starting, your trying to spin 3 cylinders, it's going to take some effort. As for the reving, start with the clutch, see what primary spring is in there. If that's all stock, try a new belt. My bet is someone put a higher engagment spring in the primary or swapped the weights out for some that have an engagement notch in them. Clutches could just need a good cleaning as well, make sure all the rollers roll smoothly, weight pivot smoothly, sheaves slide smoothly. A worn belt will also cause high engagment, they get narrower and require the primary to close farther before it bites on the belt.

Is there a specific length the spring should be? I know there's shorts and longs but don't know the specifics

 

[sideshowBob]

To help in cold starting, on the last shutdown of the day, deploy the choke to shut it down and it will be easier to pull over the next day you ride it and will start quicker.
Electric start works great on these sleds and I would highly recommend it and then anyone can start it.
The harsh clutch engagement probably is an indication the primary clutch needs to be serviced and calibration checked and if necessary put back to stock specs. You can find stock specs in the TY tech pages.

 

[Maim]

sounding like the primary is suffering from a build up of belt dust at minimum. i also reccomend a tear down of the primary clutch for cleaning and inspection. everything should slide and pivot freely without the spring installed. had a few come through my garage that messed up with corrosion and belt dust from sitting.

 

[Jack99]

I have a 1999 600 Triple 2-UP and love its electric start. Love it so much, "we don't leave home without it". L0L! Seriously, get its electric start with new "proper sized" new battery working properly, and simply start its engine every 3 weeks - to keep its many spinning parts lubricated and its battery fully charged up. If sitting idle more than 4 weeks, simply install a mini battery tender on it. If NO available 110/120 electrical, install a solar panel battery charger system instead. I use them on my RV battery and boat battery and they work great as well.

Since you don't know the history of your new (new to you) 600 triple, I would also remove its 3 carbs and in-depth clean them. Do change its in-line (in tank) gasoline filter as well. The 600/700 triple carbs a very sensitive to small grit and older age sitting gas. Especially sensitive to Ethanol Mixed gas - that loves to water separate when sitting too long. Ouch! Remove / Clean its carbs (only clean one at a time since they use different size jets) and remember to clean out their little jet holes with small electrical wire thread as well. Even though I start my sled and "run it" for 15-20 minutes every 2-3 weeks (even during summer months), I must manually detail clean its carbs every other year. Necessary task of their over sensitive 600/700 factory carbs - and their Pilot Jet's small size hole. And its carb bowls that love to "gum up" from ethanol mixed gas. When possible, only use non-ethanol (premium mix) in their 2-stroke engines.

Hope this helps....

 

[Maim]

jack99, that is what happens to all my sleds that run every month. the ones that do not run, i pull the motor over 6-8 times to keep them lubed/freed up.

 

[Jack99]

jack99, that is what happens to all my sleds that run every month. the ones that do not run, i pull the motor over 6-8 times to keep them lubed/freed up.

Yes. I like to start / run my sleds engine every 3 weeks (even during summer months), let slowly idle / warm up and only give it a little amount of throttle to slow spin its chain, spin (engage) its clutch and slow spin its track. This keeps moving parts moving and also stops its belt & track from being stretched - from sitting in same position too long. When slow speed spinning, I also check its slider thickness, its idler wheels, spinning clutch behavior, muffler system gaskets, all lighting, etc. etc. Always best to adjust and/or replace worn out parts during summer months - instead of during colder weather months. This works for me.... Sounds like you do the same....

 

[Maim]

yup lol. usually all my maintence is done by late september/early october barring issues getting parts on all 8 sleds.