Hunter Badgero
New member
- Joined
- Jul 23, 2022
- Messages
- 1
Last season I started to work on my 78 enticer, she sat for roughly 7 years, never had time or the chance to work on it. Short answer, it runs, long answer, it doesn't run well. It has a stutter almost, it has strong spark, and I cleaned the tank, carb, new fuel lines, and cleaned the fuel pump. It runs a little better with the track in the air, but as soon as it's on the ground it won't rev up and move. It will if you let on slow, but when you let off the throttle it'll just die. Back to the stutter, it idles fine, but it shuts off and starts running again before the motor completely stops turning over. I don't think it's the carb, I put brand new jets in, cleaned all the passage ways, and I fixed the choke which didn't work even before it sat. I've done pretty much everything I can think of and I just can't get the thing to run properly. I just need some opinions on the issues with the sled.
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welcome!
most of this applies between the 250 and 340 enticers but there are sled specific things that need to be checked as well.
looks like you have delt with most of the sitting sled running issues. here is what i have done to get past those issues on the sleds i have revived.
check/bypass the tether cord if equipped as have had issues with rotted rubber and bad contacts in the switch. it is a normally closed switch as the rubber holds it open.
add a ground from the frame to the engine base plate as the oe ground through the chassis gets bad with corrosion and can cause running issues.
i hope you did the filter in the tank while you where at it as i am still fighting with one that it sat so long the filter rotted off and i ran it before i found this so i contaminated the enitre fuel system with junk.
check that the track rotates freely by hand by pulling on it to check the axle end bearing and the rear main wheel bearings for failure. with all good bearings you do not need bars to get track moving.
pull the primary (engine) clutch cover off and remove the spring. then reinstall the cover without the spring and make sure all the weights and rollers pivot freely. make sure that with the cover on the clutch, that the clutch closes and opens freely in and out as i have had them rust and have had belt dust jam up a few from moving smoothly. once it all moves freely, re install the spring.
the secondary clutch just needs to rotate the sheves way from each other, like during belt removal, for it to be good.
there are other things but these are the most common ones in my area to look at before getting deeper.
let us know what your results are so we can help you more if needed.
most of this applies between the 250 and 340 enticers but there are sled specific things that need to be checked as well.
looks like you have delt with most of the sitting sled running issues. here is what i have done to get past those issues on the sleds i have revived.
check/bypass the tether cord if equipped as have had issues with rotted rubber and bad contacts in the switch. it is a normally closed switch as the rubber holds it open.
add a ground from the frame to the engine base plate as the oe ground through the chassis gets bad with corrosion and can cause running issues.
i hope you did the filter in the tank while you where at it as i am still fighting with one that it sat so long the filter rotted off and i ran it before i found this so i contaminated the enitre fuel system with junk.
check that the track rotates freely by hand by pulling on it to check the axle end bearing and the rear main wheel bearings for failure. with all good bearings you do not need bars to get track moving.
pull the primary (engine) clutch cover off and remove the spring. then reinstall the cover without the spring and make sure all the weights and rollers pivot freely. make sure that with the cover on the clutch, that the clutch closes and opens freely in and out as i have had them rust and have had belt dust jam up a few from moving smoothly. once it all moves freely, re install the spring.
the secondary clutch just needs to rotate the sheves way from each other, like during belt removal, for it to be good.
there are other things but these are the most common ones in my area to look at before getting deeper.
let us know what your results are so we can help you more if needed.