HELP!!

H

hunterrosc

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Jan 2, 2026
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7
"Looking for some insight on my 2002 Viper. I bought it in November and just did a top-end refresh: new power valves (to fix pull-through issues), carb cleaning, and G-Force reeds with spacers.

The Issue: It ran perfectly for a full day. The next day, it started bogging, backfiring through the carbs, and won't rev up consistently. It sounds like it’s only firing on 2 cylinders at times, though it starts right up. It’s also idling high.

What I’ve Done So Far:

  • TORS: Disconnected (no change).
  • Oil Pump Cable: Was out of adjustment; I reset it, but the symptoms persist.
  • Carbs: Cleaned recently, but the backfiring suggests a lean spike or timing issue.
I’m about to check the cylinders with a bore camera and adjust the idle. I’ve included a video link below of it running. Any ideas on what would cause a sudden "running on 3, then running on 2" scenario coupled with carb backfiring? Could this be a crank seal, or did I likely chip a reed petal already?"
Click to expand...

I forgot to mention that I pumped the shitty methonal fuel out and put clean 91 non oxygenated in
 
Last edited:
Could be many things.

Things to check:
-do a compression test to ensure no cylinder, piston, and or ring damage
-electrical harness rub through or short. You can pull the white relay on left side of sled to see if condition improves. I believe the relay is right above the CDI box and when removed it bypasses the sleds electrical system except the ignition.
-check or change spark plug caps as their resistors can burn out
-remove carbs and clean again, ensure the top hat filters under the needle valve seats are clean[I discard these], the O rings under the needle valve dry out as well and need replacing
-check there are no intake leaks by carb boots, reed cage gaskets, and reeds
-check the flywheel for rust , prob will have to remove it
-check/replace stator...there was an update on the early stator if I remember correctly
-check exhaust system for restrictions like a mouse nest

Just some ideas
 
sideshowBob said:
Could be many things.

Things to check:
-do a compression test to ensure no cylinder, piston, and or ring damage
-electrical harness rub through or short. You can pull the white relay on left side of sled to see if condition improves. I believe the relay is right above the CDI box and when removed it bypasses the sleds electrical system except the ignition.
-check or change spark plug caps as their resistors can burn out
-remove carbs and clean again, ensure the top hat filters under the needle valve seats are clean[I discard these], the O rings under the needle valve dry out as well and need replacing
-check there are no intake leaks by carb boots, reed cage gaskets, and reeds
-check the flywheel for rust , prob will have to remove it
-check/replace stator...there was an update on the early stator if I remember correctly
-check exhaust system for restrictions like a mouse nest

Just some ideas
Click to expand...
I got it running great again. I ended up pulling the carbs and cleaning thoroughly. I pulled the float covers and made sure I cleaned everything. Once I put everything back together I went for a test drive. I know my clutches are out of alignment but I figured out my primary is getting stuck. Im ordering a rebuild kit as soon as I get back from vacation. Im 99% sure that is what is causing the bogging. After I accelerate and i let off of the throttle or brake it sounds like its sticking and the track is spinning the motor until I come to a stop. Than it releases and goes again. You can hear the belt slipping/rubbing I'll include a video:
 
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