Mono-shock RA rear susp question

Y

y_guy

New member
Joined
Oct 9, 2003
Messages
36
Location
SE WI
How is the hyfax wear on this suspension and is it as easy to change them out as the proaction? just pop them out the track windows?



I just got done changing hyfax again on my pro-action. 3 sets this year in 1300 miles. granted low snow but always seems like they wear way to quickly. I have tried many many configs on my rear viper suspension and they just wear in different spots.
 

let it as loose as you can without it ratcheting. I am on my second set ever with a little over 4k miles. sags about an inch without pulling on it...
 
You are supposed to take out the rear suspension every time it needs the hyfax replaced.
The suspension doesnt have any kind of grease fittings. It uses bushings and needle bearings. I havent seen one taken apart yet, but I think to grease it you have to take out the cross shafts and grease them, just like in the old days.
The '06s have grease fittings though.
Hebi
 
1300 miles and 3 sets???????
- Track tension
- Ck wheel wear
That is unreal - I would guess you running in a lot of snirt. I usually get 2500-3500 miles a set.
 
yep, riding alot of snirt this year..


how is the mono-shock RA.. is it better on hyfax? are they just as easy to change?
 
they are easy to change but the narrow window makes any hyfax hard to change....as far as wear....I have 1800 miles on the stock set yet.
 
The snirt will do it everytime, but I've only gone through 3 sets in 4K miles. Are the conditions you ride in that bad? I always mange to get some snow in my suspension even when it's thin. I think that's the key...drag your feet lightly while your in the thin stuff to pull snow into the suspension, not so that your clearing the trail. I do this every 1/2 mile or so. You probably already know this, but some don't and it makes a huge difference. While most people in my group are cooking hyfax and have bare suspensions, mine is fine.

Does anyone have any input on the long lasting hyfax?
 
yes, we even stop and jam snow in there. I always change mind before they need it, just to make sure. but a few weeks ago we ran into some very bad conditions about 100 miles from home. Wasn't much i could do. I dragged my feet etc.. but there wasn't much to drag. But even in good conditions, my hyfax on the viper wear pretty quick. I loosened my track etc... but it always wears at the bend. I was wondering if the Monoshock will be a better set up when it comes to hyfax.

I was running with a bunch of firecats that really bad weekend and they are very easy on hyfax's. It's no secret that the pro-action was hard on them as we all know.

my next question was about the hole drilling on the hyfax to hold snow. I read that on here last season but haven't heard much if it helps. Makes sense just wonder if it actually does work.
 
Proaction rear, I was worried about the hyfax as well, just bought an 01 SXR 700. I replaced the Hyfax and rode it about 50 miles and they were worn to the wear line. I was going to replace again but after reading much info on this site I loosened my track and have rode it another 1200 miles on the same set and they have not worn any more! Many may panic when they get close to the line but may not need to replace them yet and have many miles left. I used the suggestion on this site of spec them with a 10mm open end wrench if it fits over top to bottom they are thin and need top be replaced if not you should be OK.
 
Two theories with drilling the holes
1 - It holds the snow
2- It holds the dirt/sand and snirt

I personally feel if you cant get a season out of sliders - something is adjusted wrong and or the conditions are beyond poor. SNOWmobile
 
the first 3 years on my 01' sx-r were Snirt, I changed the slides when I changed my track at 2000 miles "just cause" the suspension was out of the sled. I've run my track loose from day one, I loosen it until it ratchets in deep snow a bit then tighten the bolts 2 turns tighter, usually end up with about 3/4-1" of track hanging down with no tension. Where are they wearing at? if its up front you have your track too tight, too much preload on the front shock, or limiter strap is out to far. If its wearing in the middle then there isn't much you can do about that except for installing extra idlers. Mine only wears in the middle and with in the first 100 miles is just about to the wear line but after 2000 more its STILL just about to the wear line.
 
The other advantage to drilling holes in the slides is that you can see EXACTLY how much slide is left. I have the original set on my '01 SX 700R with 5500 miles of it, and it was not all great conditions. I have a feeling most of these guys change their slides before they need to. Yamahas wear very quickly to the wear line, then dont wear anymore. Just drill some holes in them where they wear, watch them, and ride. Running the track loose definately helps, as does proper slide break-in (getting them very hot when they are brand new by running on a packed surface until they get sticky and you can smell them, and then pulling into some powder or water to quickly cool them off.) This helps them last a lot longer as well.
 
i have tried every config on the rear as i mentioned. i even heat them up with a torch and cool them off as mentioned. my straps are pulled up so 1 1/4 inch of thread is showing, rear shock is in the middle.
 
I have a 98 SRX 700 with viper long travel shocks. I tried drilling the slides and it seemed to help a lot. I was going through 2 sets of slides a year but I am on year 2 for my current set after drilling them. I have about 3000 miles on them and we drive in low snow conditions quite often.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top