Speed Ring

G

GBW

New member
Joined
Oct 1, 2004
Messages
49
Location
Princeton, MN
OK, I give up.... :ORC Picked up a speed ring and installed it. No instructions with it. Why no increase in top end. Why does it still tend to nose over after about 90. Geared down one tooth on top. I don't think with gearing down AND a with the speed ring I should have lost 15 mph. Used to run an indicated 105. Thought I saw somewhere about shimming the secondary. Anybody out there transmission savvy??? I've got a Hi-tech ER secondary and the mid range response is nothing short of awesome, but the top end........... :o| thanks
 
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speed ring

this will only help if the belt is shifting out fully in secondary...yammie secondaries usually wont shift fully out...unless an overdrive helix is used or the secondary is cut...
also..one gear reduction is usually what ....like 5 mph on average....are you at target rpm's on wot?
beltwear...temperature(jetting)....relative air density can make a big difference also...
 
When I made my 90 - 92 mph run it was about 8 degrees out. My jetting is real good, in fact when the motor is cool it runs about 8900 rpm's but once it warms up all the way it drops to 8400-8500 rpm's.
 
what sled and what helix do you have in the ER, did you have the ER before this issue? Some of the earlier ER's didn't shift as far as the newer ones, the cap is too short, the later ones will shift further than a stock yammie.
 
I don't remember the degree for the helix. It was what ever was listed for my sled. 2001 700 SXR. Finally went with a Polaris grey with blue secondary spring to get it to shift right. It's spot on in that regard. The problem of semingly not shifting out was going on from day one. Magic marker on the primary sheave showed about 1/4 to 3/8 inch not even touched. So the stock setup never really shifted out either. It was my understanding the problem has always been with the primary. As far as primary weights goes they are the stock ones and set up to run 8400-8500 rpm's. My belt has maybe 700 miles on it. Track is set up looser than factory ( to reduce hifax wear).
Tempa flo, ceramic coated stock pipe w/ bender silencer.
 
coil binding in the secondary is the first thing to happen thats why those speed rings don't work. No rpm's when hot, have your power valves been cleaned lately? riding conditions make a huge difference, git her out on some ice and see if it still won't go. I see 120 on ice, but sometimes in the powdery shit it's hard to break 100mph. Maybe when the tempaflow is hot, your running leaner and she revs up with the extra power?
 
silver/blue is a good sring to use but what helix do you have. I've seen some big numbers come for that kit all of which are way to tall look and see it's stamped right on the top you can see it through the holes. I'd guess you have too much helix and you're trying to compensate for it. If it has like a straight 52 or 50, put a arctic yellow in the back. It may help.
 
good poit viper on that tempa flow....your calibration could be way off ...as to spring problems I was referring to the primary spring...which could be binding...
the speend ring does work ....providing you have a set up in the secondary that will let the belt down enough to allow the belt rise up front...I would clean the belt dust out of the primary...inspect the bushings for wear..move the primary without the spring in place to look for mechanical interfearance....if okay....put a fresh spring up front...a fresh belt too....and I've personally ran a roller set up that will allow the yammie secondary to fully shift out...and still provide anough side force to prevent belt slipping....
also the point viper makes is true too...if temps greatly vary...so will the wetnes of the snow and "load" on the machine...stickiness is drag....and it takes torque to overcome drag....
gear back up and do the above....also...with that tempa flow...where are your ventlines vented to...? I ran a vari flow years ago and seem to remember the ventlines were all tied together?....I personally dont like these because of two reasons...if it should ever fail....one would go full lean...second ...every yammie triple with the exception of the stock viper is designed with the ventlines in the belly...so at spead...under hood air pressure is up....and therefore so is fuel flow....I'm now a dial a jet fan..
 
Looked at it this morning. All I see is 48E stamped in there.......Got back into it this afternoon. Noticed outside sheave on secondary felt real slick deep in the grove. Outside of belt felt slicker than inside of belt. Took 150 grit sandpaper to clutch sheaves paying particular attention to top of primary and inside of secondary. Blew everything out. Cleaned belt with dish soap and scrub brush. Made quite a difference to the touch. As soon as I get a chance I'll take it out see what happens. Bushings didn't seem to have any play in them.
 
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