Went out to get my sled ready for a trip I was supposed to go on tomorrow when I noticed the antifreeze level in the overflow tank was way down. Checked underneath the sled and sure enough there was coolant coming out from the front exchanger. I also noticed that I had a bad stud tearout. I found the leaking coolant coming from the very top of the front heat exchanger. So to make a long story short, I won't be going on the ride I had planned for tomorrow, meaning my season is probably over with. It's unfortunate because we are supposed to get more snow this weekend, but what can you do? I'm not gonna hurry through the repair process just so I can ride for one day. Do I need to pull the engine to take that exchanger out? I'm thinking I'll just buy a new exchanger instead of trying to weld it. Anyone have one for sale? Thanks, and sorry for the long post. I'm just a little bummed... 
yamaholic22
Active member
honestly, if the exchanger isn't horribly ripped up, you would be better off welding it. It is a pain in the arse changing that thing. No point in doing it if the weld will hold fine, and if the person welding it knows what they are doing it should be just fine.
I know guys who have cleaned them really well, then recleaned with rubbing alcohol, and jb welded them, and never lost a drop of antifreeze. If its an easy weld spot, just weld it in the sled. Maxdlx
yamaholic22
Active member
yea my uncle has welded a couple of them this year and they have held up fine. Not really worth all of the time and money to change it if the old one is salvagable. The cosmetic incidence of it isn't really too important, lol.
and when you see how many rivets there are goodness. I wish I would have sold my bulkhead and tunnel as 1 piece. Good way to wear out a drill bit LOL Maxdlx
Go riding tomorrow, I hate to admit it, but we used a 2 part metal epoxy ,1 hour before riding 100 miles in 45 degree weather. Never lost a drop!! Last I knew, my "buddies" sled was still going with the JB weld!!
Try to fix it in place. I had a small drip on a corner of mine, kept wiping it down and the drip kept appearing. I pulled it out, a major project, track, drivers, motor, everything, not to mention about 50 rivets. Long story short, it wasn't leaking it was the hose on the clutch side under the motor leaking and running down the exchanger. If you can find the leak patch it on the sled. Good Luck!
yamaholic22
Active member
tdviper said:
Wow that sucks man, a lot of work for nothing. At least you eventually found the problem though.
Junior
New member
maxdlx said:
lol, couple drill bits and a couple hours!
I would have just used JB Weld while it was on the sled, however when I say the hole is on the top of the exchanger, I mean it is on the very top. It is not on the fins, it is literally ON TOP of the exchanger and a guy can't get his fingers, let alone JB Weld up in there to seal it. So one way or the other, the engine or the track/suspension/drivers will have to come out, if not both. Sounds like a summertime project to me...
icky47
New member
We purchased a 98 SRX that had the engine sieze on the previous owner due to a stump or something punching a hole in the heat exchanger.
Engine, track, drive line (some components), and a ton of rivets all need to come out to get the exchanger out. You will also need a good hydralic jack (and some scrap pieces of 2x4) to expand the tunnel to get the exchanger to come out.
Other good tools to have - a 90 degree drill (we bought a cheap $35.00 CDN 90 degree air drill strictly for this job). An engine lift makes the job easier too. Mark your engine mounts too - help on alignment when installing. And most importantly - lots of new drill bits - otherwise you will be drilling forever.
We brought our exchanger to a really good radiator shop, and 10 minutes later, it was all fixed up - had a 3/8" hole in it, and some bent fins.
Unfortunately, it is not a quick job - but it can be done in a weekend.
Engine, track, drive line (some components), and a ton of rivets all need to come out to get the exchanger out. You will also need a good hydralic jack (and some scrap pieces of 2x4) to expand the tunnel to get the exchanger to come out.
Other good tools to have - a 90 degree drill (we bought a cheap $35.00 CDN 90 degree air drill strictly for this job). An engine lift makes the job easier too. Mark your engine mounts too - help on alignment when installing. And most importantly - lots of new drill bits - otherwise you will be drilling forever.
We brought our exchanger to a really good radiator shop, and 10 minutes later, it was all fixed up - had a 3/8" hole in it, and some bent fins.
Unfortunately, it is not a quick job - but it can be done in a weekend.
Biggest tip is get a good pair of side cutters, and pull all of the anchors out of the rivits before you drill them. It will go faster, and save on drill bits. Maxdlx
Junior
New member
bars stop leak might get you thru to end of season if the leak isn't to bad
kinda redneck, but I imagine you wanna be out and riding, not in and wrenching.
kinda redneck, but I imagine you wanna be out and riding, not in and wrenching.
black pepper will work too, it will stop a block leak LOL maxdlx
Viper Treats
New member
If you can do it yourself take the track off and take it to a welder. Mine was just welded, good to go. Where are you from? Winnebagoland in Oshkosh, WI welded mine for me.