02' Viper issues: Opinions Please!

Allvipedup

Allvipedup

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Joined
Dec 8, 2004
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575
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53
Location
Sylvan Lake, Michigan
So I've been avoiding this issue for a while and now it's time to tackle it. The 02' Vipe is Idling high (4K) for 5-15 seconds after clutch disengages then slowly drops to normal idle. If I pin the throttle from idle, there is a very slight hesitation (not bog) then she rips. If I feather the throttle just to the point of engagement,then pin it, she rips. Just from a stand still or idle. It shifts fine up and back. The carbs are clean. Power Valves are clean. Everything appears fine??? After I explained to Bender that I added a 2 inch riser, they seemed to think the cables are stretched out (oil and throttle). There is a good chance of this due to the fact I use to have to lay my bars down to get my cover on. Now that I have a covered trailer I don't use my cover anymore. How do I check the cables to see if they are ok? Does anyone have any other ideas? I would be winning more races if the hesitation would go away. ;)!
 

Well... I'm no expert but I would think that if the cables are stretched tight or screwed up it wouldn't come back down to normal after 10-15 seconds. Sounds like you could be a little lean on the pilot circuit causing it to hang a little bit before coming down. Have you tried blipping it to half choke to see if it brings the idle back down right away?
 
Lean

You may be a little lean on the fuel screws. One way to check is when you coast to a stop and the idle hangs up like that just flip the choke quickly. If the sled drops right down to a normal idle you have a lean condition. Richen up your fuel screws. Try 1/4 turn, if that's not enough and it still does it go 1/4 more. This worked for me but you may want to check with some other guru's here......I'm just a beginner with carbs at this point.

Madmatt
 
yes you are lean on the pilot circuit. Depending on where your fuel screws are right now, open them up 1/4 turn and try it. If not enough, you can open them up until about 2.75 turns, don't go anymore then this or you risk them falling out. If you find that you have to go more than this, you will need bigger pilots.
 
I had the same problem, 2 solution one is better then the other. 1) drop the idle to 1400 rpm, or 2) the better one richen up your pilot circuit by removing the carbs and turning the air screw a 1/4 to a 1/2 turn.

I'll be fixing mine with the screws but lowering the idle fixed it for the rest of the winter but the sled shakes and carry's on at that low rpm.
 
Thanks guys, I figured that was the case. Yes, when it is high, if I lift the choke 1/2 way. it does drop right away to normal idle. I'll give r a try. Now When I turn the Fuel screw to richen it up, I turn it IN 1/4-1/2 turn to start...right? You guys are great...just saved myself a trip to the dealer...RIP OFF! I can't do the work right away, sled at cottage, but when I get r home I'll try richening r up.
 
Nope you turn them out to richen them. I always run them in everytime and then run them back out, just to be sure they are identicle. maxdlx
 
This was a constant problem with my 02 until I dropped the idle speed. No more bog, no more high idle. It might be worth a try, waiting for colder weather, to try this first. If it doesn't do the trick, change the fuel screws. This has been the only running issue I have had with my Viper. 9400 miles, none of them easy. Ask Maxdlx. He saw my snowflap for a couple of days LOL! (Had to throw that in there) He is now the proud owner of a Viper.

Dave ;)! ;)!
 
lowering the idle is NOT the correct fix, it is more of a band aid when you don't have time to adjust the screws or if you don't have remote adjusters to change them quick. The correct fix is to turn the fuel screws out 1/4 turn at a time until its good. Usually turning them out 1/2 turn from stock makes it perfect, no more high idle and no more quick hesitation.
 
OLDCAT said:
Is This Viper Triple Piped? You Mentioned Bender....
Click to expand...

Yep, Bender Race Version 3 pipes into 3 cans with their clutch kit and jetting. Heel clickers, Boyesen Rad valves, Head mod, Optiflow Gasket, Rear heat exchanger, etc...

What do you guys think of trail porting? I know we just dicussed this, but do you think some modest porting will give some more fun factor? If so, I was thinking: Bender, cuz I have their set up, but maybe I could get just as good for cheaper??? I want to get r' running sharp and strong without losing realiability...obviously. I don't race, I just want a super butt kickin trail sled, well better then it is right now..LOL God, I'm prayin that work picks up, cuz I gots dreams..LOL

- 136" Expert X with 1.25" - 1.5" Lugs, may stud it depending on lug size.
or
- Rail extensions and new "works" Shocks??? not sure

- Fox Floats or Works up front
- Carbon Fiber Trailing Arms???
- Skis??? SLP or Simmons don't know
- Boss Seat - Custom
- Boon Dockers NOS hee hee

***835 Big bore*** It's good to dream...

You think she'll be a contender if I added all that? Yeah...LOL

Thanks again for the help guys! ;)!
 
For Most People Ohlins Are A Waste Of Money...i Have A Set And Also Have A Set Of Works.for The Money Works Are A Great Shock.if You Ride Hard You Will Need To Revale At A Cost Of About 60.00 Per Shock.if The Right Person Is Doing The Revalve You Can Get Them To Perform Like An Ohlin.
 
Im not to sure about the Ohlins, my srx had them and I thought they were great for a short travel front-end. I wrecked the front of the sled and one of the shocks, so I modded a set of 02 revalved viper shocks and put them on and it handles the bumps much better than my 04 Viper S w/ohlins.I don't know why, but my Viper will not handle the studder bumps without rattling my teeth out, but handles the big one-timers fine!
 
that is all in the compression and rebound settings. You can set those ohlins up to be better than those KYBs can even dream of, you just have to play with them, they won't adjust themselves to your riding style.
 
Ive tried just about every combonation I could think of, soft springs settings to hard, soft dampening to hard. The only place it seems to change is in the large one-timers.The fast studder bumps just kill the ride.
 
the problem is that you don't have the seperate high and low speed compression dampening adjustments, but you can easily get those shocks revalved if you tell them the issue you are having, and it will ride like a cadillac. Like i said these shocks all have to be designed for your average rider, so they aren't going to fit everyone's weight, sled, and riding style. Getting them revalved isn't expensive at all either, and well worth it.
 
yamaholic22 said:
lowering the idle is NOT the correct fix, it is more of a band aid when you don't have time to adjust the screws or if you don't have remote adjusters to change them quick. The correct fix is to turn the fuel screws out 1/4 turn at a time until its good. Usually turning them out 1/2 turn from stock makes it perfect, no more high idle and no more quick hesitation.
Click to expand...


Yamaholic,

My sled does this also, but goes down after a few seconds, I just learned to live with it. The screws are on the bottom of the carbs? Also what should be cleaned when cleaning the carbs? (As long as I have the carbs out)

Thanks.
 
yes the fuel screws are on the bottom of the carbs. The screws are on the engine side of the carbs, on the bottom. (in front of the float bowls). Turning them all 1/4 turn out should take care of the high idle. As for cleaning the carbs, take the float bowls off, pull the pilots and main jets and let them soak in carb cleaner, and then blow them out with compressed air. Make sure you can look through the jets and that they are clear. Clean any crud out of the bottoms of the float bowls. After taking out the main jets, open the slides (pull open where the throttle pulls and make sure the needle jets are clear (where the needle drops down towards the main jet). You shouldn't see crud or varnish in any of these passages.
 
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