sledrider_ny
New member
Anyone have the measurement for installing the jackshaft bearing on the jackshaft on a 97 SX700? Or maybe the collar just goes to the line where the taper drops off? Anyone know? Pics a liitle blurry but you can get my meaning by it I hope.
TJ500
Member
I measured my own before I removed the bearing.... From the absolute end of the jackshaft to the closest inner race was exactly 95.3 mm.....or 3.752 inches.....
I'm almost certain that these measurements are the same for many different models and years since the part numbers are the same....
My sled was a 500 VMax 1999, but the Yamaha manual sold to me by Yamaha is for sleds from 97 through 99.....
Can you see where the set screws pinched the shaft?...
Also.... What if you were to assemble everything together from the chaincase side to the PTO side first..... Then when all finished, tighten the set screws for the bearing on the PTO side last.... This would ensure proper placement of the bearing....
If the distance isn't 95.3mm or 3.752 inches, then please let us know...
TJ
I'm almost certain that these measurements are the same for many different models and years since the part numbers are the same....
My sled was a 500 VMax 1999, but the Yamaha manual sold to me by Yamaha is for sleds from 97 through 99.....
Can you see where the set screws pinched the shaft?...
Also.... What if you were to assemble everything together from the chaincase side to the PTO side first..... Then when all finished, tighten the set screws for the bearing on the PTO side last.... This would ensure proper placement of the bearing....
If the distance isn't 95.3mm or 3.752 inches, then please let us know...
TJ
sledrider_ny
New member
I would have normally measured the distance but were talking major disaster here! Someone had replaced this bearing with the wrong one that if you centered it over the mounting spot on the shaft you could literally see air all the way around it. This along with a clutch that binds constantly and is in serious need of new bushings and a major tune up and cleaning, caused the jackshaft to rip through the bearing housing and oval out a hole the circumference of the jackshaft right where the left housing mount hole used to be on the bulkhead. Its not pretty. I would try to slide the bearing in place after the jackshaft is installed but it fits very snug and my need to be pressed on. I don't know if I will be able to move it in place after its installed. We welded a plate of aluminum in the spot where the jackshaft ate out the hole and other than waiting to pick up the bearing housing when it comes in its ready to go back together. Then of course, its on to the clutch for a bit of freshening up.
Yamadogger
New member
No Measurement Necessary
You don't need to measure anything. As TJ500 said, assemble everything on the chaincase side first and then your PTO side bearings are located where they need to be. I always put my top & bottom sprockets on as well as the chain and then torque the top & bottom bolt/nut in the chaincase before tightening the set screws on the PTO side bearings. This way you know the side to side alignment is correct. If the bearing fits tight on the jackshaft it's probably from the little raised circle formed by the set screw digging in. Take a file and file off any raised spots and the bearing will slide right on.
You don't need to measure anything. As TJ500 said, assemble everything on the chaincase side first and then your PTO side bearings are located where they need to be. I always put my top & bottom sprockets on as well as the chain and then torque the top & bottom bolt/nut in the chaincase before tightening the set screws on the PTO side bearings. This way you know the side to side alignment is correct. If the bearing fits tight on the jackshaft it's probably from the little raised circle formed by the set screw digging in. Take a file and file off any raised spots and the bearing will slide right on.
sledrider_ny
New member
I got her together. Your right about the burrs. Thats exactly what was holding it. I took them off with a 400 grit sanding disc on my grinder. Worked great. Now I just have to figure out how to get that clutch spider apart. I made one of those tools today and it still won't budge. Soaking the threads with some PB blaster over night. Maybe that will loosen it up.
TJ500
Member
sledrider_ny...
spider is left hand thread....
TJ
spider is left hand thread....
TJ
sledrider_ny
New member
Yep, knew that. Still no go.
MountainMax
New member
It's also very very tight, you will need to put a power bar on the end of the tool you made up and wrench on er, it will come. There is a strong threadlocker used on these threads and a very high torqe amount.