What RESULTS did you get from a 53/43 Helix and Green spring on a Viper
- Thread starter viper7mi
- Start date
Sounds like part of the set up reccomended for a piped viper. I'll be using those parts with 8DN20 weights and diff primary spring on my SLP'iped viper this year.
redsnake3
New member
when i was running stock i had a rpc heel clicker with a 52/36 stock spring. it totally rocked fro a stocker. was beating f7's in 1/8th 
mile. incredible upshift. set at 50-60 degrees
mile. incredible upshift. set at 50-60 degrees
I heard it's about 4-5 sled legnth gain in a 1000ft.
yamaholic22
Active member
Didn't i just answer this? Reliablility wont change, unless you call the slight overrev of stock clutching extra wear and tear on the engine. In that case, it will be more reliable with the multi angle and green spring because it wont overrev anymore. Probably wont notice a change in gas mileage. Will get more power to the track, as any good clutch setup should. Will not backshift QUITE as well as stock, but very close. Upshifts faster (quicker acceleration)
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the helix
It actually back shifts better then stock does, the stock helix is a stright 47, with the 43 finish on this, its got better backshift and grabs the belt better on topend. When I had this set up back in 2001 on a new viper, it was a 5 mph gain in a drag race. You have to have a shallower finish angle when your loading the motor more off the start, this keeps the engine revving up smoothly and not hitting a dead zone, I can best describe it as the engine just makes noise and doesnt seem to keep on pulling anymore speed or rpm.
This set up works very well, some of the vipers may need a 4.5 rivet in the tip of the stock weight if your going to run over 800-1000ft at a time wide open, they will slightly over rev, easy fix to gain a bit more speed for cheap money.
It actually back shifts better then stock does, the stock helix is a stright 47, with the 43 finish on this, its got better backshift and grabs the belt better on topend. When I had this set up back in 2001 on a new viper, it was a 5 mph gain in a drag race. You have to have a shallower finish angle when your loading the motor more off the start, this keeps the engine revving up smoothly and not hitting a dead zone, I can best describe it as the engine just makes noise and doesnt seem to keep on pulling anymore speed or rpm.
This set up works very well, some of the vipers may need a 4.5 rivet in the tip of the stock weight if your going to run over 800-1000ft at a time wide open, they will slightly over rev, easy fix to gain a bit more speed for cheap money.
yamaholic22
Active member
run the spring around 3-3 (60 degrees) or 6-1 (70 degrees). No you will not overrev by adding this setup.
60, maybe 70,maybe 80
that depends on your weight, traction and the type of snow your running on, try it at 60, if it sucks the belt and overshifts(bog after a few feet out) youll need to increase the wrap by 10 to 20 degree's. Try and remember the sled will go its fastest with the least amount of secondary spring press., you want to have just enuff to keep from overshifting, but not too much so the rear clutch fights the front clutch.
that depends on your weight, traction and the type of snow your running on, try it at 60, if it sucks the belt and overshifts(bog after a few feet out) youll need to increase the wrap by 10 to 20 degree's. Try and remember the sled will go its fastest with the least amount of secondary spring press., you want to have just enuff to keep from overshifting, but not too much so the rear clutch fights the front clutch.
yamaholic22
Active member
right on 
yamaholic22
Active member
see where you are revving at first. If you are overreving with just the helix then try adding a 4.5 gram rivet to the outer holes of the weights