n2oiroc
New member
i am trying to get into off trail more and more. could someone explain the importance of track speed to me? i might as well get my learn on in the summer! 
yamaholic22
Active member
alot of track speed combined with tall paddles allows the snow to be "formed" and packed under the track so that it can provide better flotation and allow more traction to keep you moving forward. Pretty much as simple as that.
n2oiroc
New member
so i keep it pinned? easy enough, im already a pro them!
SRXSRULE
New member
- Joined
- May 2, 2003
- Messages
- 338
I wish it was that easy. But honestly its not, and I'm still learning alot myself So I wont be much help. I will say that when you hear people throw out track speed numbers it dont mean anything unless you were there that same day doing the same climb and compaired speeds. Snow conditons and grade make such a huge difference. Once more thing......Gear too low and its going to trench like a mother! Been there, done that. Have fun learning....thats what I do.
There is no "ideal" track speed for all sleds. Way to many variables, mainly snow condition's, track length and horse power.
Here's what you want to shoot for, when testing for climbing.
Mark your primary clutch with a magic marker line. Pick a hill you want to test on, and climb it WOT. Turn out and stop in a safe place, and check the mark on your clutch. In most cases you want the primary clutch to shift approx 3/4 of the way out, so the primary and secondary are almost the same size. (1 to 1) This would be the most efficient ratio area.
This testing would be to find your ideal climbing set up, and would not be the best set up for trail riding, drag racing, etc.
Now comes the fun part! You regear/clutch to bring the marked pattern in the ideal range. Go back out the next day and hit the same hill. Only now the snow is wet and heavy. The clutches wont shift out as much, (lower track speed) because of more drag/traction from the wet heavy snow.
Of course you could gear down some more. But then the next time your out it could be 3' of dry fluffy powder. In this case, the clutches would shift out more, due to less snow drag (higher track speed)
Best thing to do is test in several different snow conditions, and pick a happy medium set up, that works well, in most of the conditions you ride in.
There will be day's when your set up isn't ideal for that day. But the good news is your buddies will be dealing with the same snow conditions. Maybe he's set up for wet and heavy, and your set up for powder, just depends how the snow is for that day who will do better.
Kinda all works out in the end!
Here's what you want to shoot for, when testing for climbing.
Mark your primary clutch with a magic marker line. Pick a hill you want to test on, and climb it WOT. Turn out and stop in a safe place, and check the mark on your clutch. In most cases you want the primary clutch to shift approx 3/4 of the way out, so the primary and secondary are almost the same size. (1 to 1) This would be the most efficient ratio area.
This testing would be to find your ideal climbing set up, and would not be the best set up for trail riding, drag racing, etc.
Now comes the fun part! You regear/clutch to bring the marked pattern in the ideal range. Go back out the next day and hit the same hill. Only now the snow is wet and heavy. The clutches wont shift out as much, (lower track speed) because of more drag/traction from the wet heavy snow.
Of course you could gear down some more. But then the next time your out it could be 3' of dry fluffy powder. In this case, the clutches would shift out more, due to less snow drag (higher track speed)
Best thing to do is test in several different snow conditions, and pick a happy medium set up, that works well, in most of the conditions you ride in.
There will be day's when your set up isn't ideal for that day. But the good news is your buddies will be dealing with the same snow conditions. Maybe he's set up for wet and heavy, and your set up for powder, just depends how the snow is for that day who will do better.
Kinda all works out in the end!
Last edited:
ModMMax
New member
I agree, there's not idea set up. Generally, in the early season, or sugar season, spin the track as fast as you can. In other words, gear the sled so the thransmission shifts all the way at WOT in a climb. The magic marker is exactly the right way to determine how far the clutches have shifted. If you have reached a 1:1 final ratio, then you have enough power and the right gears to pull the sled into top gear. With 150 Hp at 10,000 ft, you might use a 1:19 gear ratio (with 9 tooth drivers) in the early season. As the season mature and the hook up increases, it becomes more difficult to spin a long track. A lower gear ratio (such as 1:1.90) can cause engine and transmission heat soak and reduced belt life. When conditions get sticky it is common to increase the gear ratio to as high as 1:2.2 for spring riding conditions. Because there are so many vaiable, such as engine power vs altitude and temp, primary and secondary clutch spring temperature, gear ratio, snow conditions etc., it can really become frustrating. About the only constants are the marks you buddys make on the mountain. If you make the high mark, you have the right set up. If you don't, then you get to buy the drinks that night. One formula seems to work in all conditions. If you have more power than everyone else and your sled is the lightest, you usually will go higher up the mountain.