2000SXR 700 with Aaen pipes

[yamyrider]

What set up are you guys running with these pipes.
I have some advise from guys here but have not found all the proper parts yet. Just wondering who has them and what are you running for jetting and clutching. I am an agresive trail rider and cross many lakes.
I do want to keep the sled reliable as well.

 

[800]

We ran them at 9000, 47.5 pilots or 50;s depending on where you have the screws, put a Q-4 in the pto cyl, run 146.3 or 147.5.

Goodwim white spring
49 or 50 gr Polaris weights
48 40 or a 48 42
stock sec spring at 6/2

22/40 gears

Take a piece of head gasket out or .010 off the head, reed spacers, or v force.
It will run an honest 110, we had one that ran 114 but it was touched at little more in the motor.............

 

[yamaholic22]

That is VERY similar to what i had in mine 800, except mine seemed a little happier around 9100-9200. You really can make those things rip with a good setup and a little tuning time.

 

[800]

we used to run them at 92 and when we were out testing on the stalker we kept throwing weight at it and the ET and the MPH came up, The stalker results, both ET and MPH were better at 9K, started going backwards at 8800. I had one sled that ran 51.5 grams at 9000, that was the sled that ran 114. Like anything else, these things vary so much if you don't go and do some acurate testing with each one you never know.
The info I gave Yami will get him pretty damn close the first time out. You can run them a little leaner but you better know what you're putting in the gas tank, if I get a guy that I know is putting bar gas in it and he doesn't seem to be a tuner, I'll put 147.5's in it.

 

[yamyrider]

thanks guys. I would love to get 110 or better out of her.
Question what is a Q-4.
Right now I have a 49/45 helix and I have some 89dn10 weights coming soon.
Does anyone know what the stock jetting is.
I dont want to run lean, want to be safe. 99% of the time I run high octane fuel but when I go for a long ride up north there maybe questionable gas.
I have reed spacers and may go to carbon fiber reeds????thoughts.

 

[800]

What I told you is for 93octane. I've run them with as low as 145's but that is on the edge, thats why I told you 146.3's, if you want never worry go with 147'5's. The Q-4 is the nozzle in the carb. An SX has a Q-8 in the PTO and Q-4's in the other 2. When you go to triple pipes you no longer need the 8, just 4's all the way across. right now you should have a 145 in the pto and 143.8's in the other 2, with 45 pilots.

I've had guys use -10's, but I can't tell you the rest of the set up with them.

If you want Everything to set it up with, I have it all, clutching as well as gear, and jets......

 

[sxrsist]

i have a guy thgat wants me to set up clutching on his, what yamaha setup for clutching you guys use

 

[maxdlx]

I wish I would have had that nozzle info with my old 700sx.. It would have solved alot of head aches.Before you say it, I know I never asked. LOL Maxdlx

 

[Bischof]

The Q-4 is the nozzle in the carb. An SX has a Q-8 in the PTO and Q-4's in the other 2. When you go to triple pipes you no longer need the 8, just 4's all the way across.

I've had guys use -10's, but I can't tell you the rest of the set up with them.

If you want Everything to set it up with, I have it all, clutching as well as gear, and jets......

800 could you explain the nozzle differences in a little more detail?
The reason I ask is I have PI center dumps on a 97' SX700. I have SRX side and rear heat exchangers. Jetted Mag & Cntr 146.3, PTO 145. 47.5 pilot jets and the pilot screw 2 turns out. Needle clips are in the 4th position for the Mag and Cntr and 3.5 for the PTO. The plugs read safe at the PTO and leaner in the center to the hairy edge of safe on the Mag side. This is in warm conditions. Would playing with the nozzels effect the performance? Which is richer? Q-4's or Q-8's
I'm trying to get a balance between safe temps and acceptable gas mileage.
Thanks for your input.
Greg

 

[2001_blue_sxr]

yeah, what he said^

i'll have to look into the Q-4 thing...

 

[sxr70001]

I know this thread is old, but yamyrider asked me to let him know how I was doing with my Aaen's and this thread already had some Aaen info in it so I though I would keep it all together.

Just a little history I put some Aaen's on my 01 SXR700 last year, rejetted to 147.5 all the way across and turned out my pilots to 1 7/8. They sounded great and really woke the sled up, but with stock clutching it was like I was running into a wall at top end. Amatosrx rode it and said I needed more weight. Plus I was reving up around 92=9300 right off the line.

So I went to the tech pages and couldn't find any set up for an SX with Aaen's, but I found one of Turk's setups for another piped SX with similiar jet sizes so I took that as a starting point.

Here is Turks recommendation 47/41 Helix, 89-L weights w/4.5g rivets, 14.5 rollers

Here is what I was able to find 46/40 Helix, 89-L weights w/4.5g rivets and 14.5 rollers.

So, I got everything installed last weekend and now my sled flashes to about 8500 and then settles in and starts to pull up to around 9 grand. I am pretty happy, because now I feel like i am finding all the power under the curve and before I was flashing about 9 grand right away. I'm not a racer or anything and don't have to be just perfect so it's pretty good for me an my top end has returned.

However, ( and I can see how some of you guys can never stop tuning once you start) I wonder how to get my final rpm just a little over 9000. Just add a little more spring wrap to the secondary?

Also, for newbies like me you have to realize that when tuning clutches it makes a difference in recording rpm's what surface you are on. A hard packed trail is a lot different than a lake with 6 inches of fluff on it.

 

[riverman]

I've got 5000 miles on this set up. Q4 in clutch side carb, 146.3 mains, 40 pilots, needles on 3, fuel screw 2 turns out. Most my riding is off trail and this set up keeps her crisp and responsive in the midrange. Could use a little more fuel on top end in wot drag races, but cruising down a trail at 70 to 80 egt's never exceed 1300, even in sub zero's temps. Best sounding pipes out there here in my opinion.

 

[sxr70001]

I need to put my fuel screws out to 2 as I have a slight idle hang, but it comes down pretty fast. It doesn't bother me too much though as I know I'm running clean at idle. I'm not really sure what Q4 means is that a jet part number or a different style?

 

[riverman]

I need to put my fuel screws out to 2 as I have a slight idle hang, but it comes down pretty fast. It doesn't bother me too much though as I know I'm running clean at idle. I'm not really sure what Q4 means is that a jet part number or a different style?

The fuel screw 2 out only eliminates the bog when you punch the throttle from idle. Get used to the idle hang, just flip the choke half way and it will clear the hang. A Q4 is the venturi # that you can replace in the pto side carb to match the other two. Factory yami loved to run that cylinder rich. I had some problems with fouling plugs on that cylinder with the pipes and the problem went away when I changed it. Hope this helps.

 

[sxr70001]

Thanks

 

[mrviper700]

I know this thread is old, but yamyrider asked me to let him know how I was doing with my Aaen's and this thread already had some Aaen info in it so I though I would keep it all together.

Just a little history I put some Aaen's on my 01 SXR700 last year, rejetted to 147.5 all the way across and turned out my pilots to 1 7/8. They sounded great and really woke the sled up, but with stock clutching it was like I was running into a wall at top end. Amatosrx rode it and said I needed more weight. Plus I was reving up around 92=9300 right off the line.

So I went to the tech pages and couldn't find any set up for an SX with Aaen's, but I found one of Turk's setups for another piped SX with similiar jet sizes so I took that as a starting point.

Here is Turks recommendation 47/41 Helix, 89-L weights w/4.5g rivets, 14.5 rollers

Here is what I was able to find 46/40 Helix, 89-L weights w/4.5g rivets and 14.5 rollers.

So, I got everything installed last weekend and now my sled flashes to about 8500 and then settles in and starts to pull up to around 9 grand. I am pretty happy, because now I feel like i am finding all the power under the curve and before I was flashing about 9 grand right away. I'm not a racer or anything and don't have to be just perfect so it's pretty good for me an my top end has returned.

However, ( and I can see how some of you guys can never stop tuning once you start) I wonder how to get my final rpm just a little over 9000. Just add a little more spring wrap to the secondary?

Also, for newbies like me you have to realize that when tuning clutches it makes a difference in recording rpm's what surface you are on. A hard packed trail is a lot different than a lake with 6 inches of fluff on it.

you want to tune your rpm with your front clutch. The wrap on the rear clutch will raise or lower rpm to some extent but youll shoot yourself in the foot by adjusting your rpm thru it.
For instance if your low on rpm and want more, and you wrap it up say another 10 degrees from 70 already to 80, this is what will happen:
Well.. it raised the rpm but it also makes the clutch very inefficent, and will lower the top speed down of the sled from the incresed resistance it has. The rear trys to backshift and front trying to upshift.

Try and run the secondary at say 60-70 wrap in snow and then tune the rpm with the primary if your high or low. the wrap really should just be the extra fine tune and more for your liking of acceptable backshift for the trail and snow conditions your riding in, wet heavy snow will need more wrap to work the same as when you have it at 60 in nice hardpack and fluffy snow, less resistance to the sled moving along.

In your case youll likely need to just take a small drill bit and drill a little bit of weight from the tip rivet in the weight. The rivets are soft and drill easy, just drill right into the fat head side of it. A little pocket gram scale is the easiest way to keep track of what you remove. I would say you need to remove about 1/2 gram each and you should be good.

 

[sxr70001]

MrViper,

Thanks for the feedback. I am at 60 wrap right now. Great tip on the weights, I can do that. I just drilled out the old weights to put the 4.5's in so I know exactly what you are saying.