Maximum Perf. Lightweight Brake rotor and hub

auji700triple

auji700triple

New member
Joined
May 2, 2005
Messages
1,023
Age
38
Location
Labrador City,Canada
Guys, What do you think of this... is it worth the $$? I hear its good cuz Less spinning Mass = Alot less Weight... Is there anythign i Should and shouldn't know about this before Buying it? Thanks alot -aj-
 

Any time you take off weight, it's going to = $$$ There are cheaper places to start, but that being said, I have used the Maxx Perf rotor. The only problem I had was getting the key to fit the hub, which was fixed with a file.
 
i heard that for every pund you lose at the engine/rotor area is equal to 10 lbs of stationary weight. is this true, because if it is, then the maxx perf rotor and hub would be a great value, as it wieghs only 2.2 lbs, adn im sure the stocker whegihs alot more than that.....
 
what they are saying is sure it will take weight off, but if you do the lb/$ ratio its not as good as some other things you can do to shave weight. For example, if your looking to shave some weight:
1) lexan hood $500+ and i think roughly 23lbs saved
2) Boss seat $300-500 and i wanna say 12-15lbs saved
3) Different skid (F-cat, m-10) $500-1500 about 20 something on m-10 saved
4) Front suspension $1000 could get up to 15-17lbs off
5) Silencer $250 and 12lbs i believe it is you save

And pretty much after that its a lot of small stuff you can fool around with pending your wallet size. Extroverts, track clipped ever 3rd, brake rotor and hub, titanium jackshaft and drive shaft, replace airbox with pods (very finicky carbs tho), aftermarket skis, etc.

Some stuff you could do for free if you know what your doing and aren't afraid of ruining your sled is to cut some holes in it. Clutch cover, braces, rails, tunnel, etc. You can also take some components off your hood if you don't need them too badly. removing the hood entirely saves a lot!!! just depends on what your looking for really...
 
I have a friend that has a 98 xc 700 down to about 375 and is trailable. he says the first 30-50 lbs was easy, after that it got REAL costly and inventive :) he did EVERYTHING you can do though, he wanted to show what he could do. thing flew, has the 1500cc genesis engine in it with his own efi setup :) close to 350hp last I knew lol! what are you looking to do? full lightweight diet, or just a few things here and there for better response?
 
Few things here and there for better response, skidoo is fully Race Project... already have pipes/silceners... and i was thinkin the lightweight roter and hub would be awsome! thinikin about a seat also.. but susp no way i can't afford new susp. right now! anythign will help as long as the $$ are down there.. thanks guys!
 
what kind of race? are you EVER going to trail ride it? mountain, sno-x, drag (ice, grass, asphalt?)
 
Yes, i will Race it 660, and usually if not at the track ill be at the mtns, on the trails geting there.. thats about it and the occasianl powder.. but the sled is more for Racing and up hill...any ideas?
 
I have the light weight rotor on mine. Works fine, not sure how much difference it makes. I pulled 41 pounds off of my Viper so far. I did it in about 10-15 pounds at a time, as I could afford it. Depending on which parts your changing, a few pounds, you probably wont notice much difference. However add it all up and at 40 pounds you can really feel the difference!
I would save the money untill you can afford to do a little more, in one shot. Then you'll notice the difference, after each mod stage. ;)!
 
yeah i hear yea, im thinkin about savin up for a Lexon hood, lightweight rotor and hub, maybe Trailing Arms adn that mite be it... theres not a whole lot you can do to it unless you have some $$$$ and i spend all mine on engine mods! hahahaha i will slowly get some weight taken off..

Well, is there any place i should Try thats pretty cheap??
 
Trailing arm's are good place to start. Yes they are expensive, about $400 for chrome moly unit's. However if your stock ones are in good shape, you can sell them to offset the cost. Seem's like someone is always looking for stock trailing arms, and since Yamaha wants big bucks for them new. It's easy to sell used ones that are in good shape.
The round tube type trailing arms are the best ones to get IMO. The round tube design allows the deep snow to funnel out between the trailing arm and belly pan easier. Less snow build up under/in the front end in some deep snow conditions.
 
yeah i understand, but dont they bend easy?.. i hear there Really Weak, anythign will bend them up, are they worth it?? my trailin arms are in Awsome shape .. bend 1 up a little bit but bought a brand new one to put on.. 200$$ for 1 + 40 i think for the sticker!! there in awsome shape if i want to sell them for chrome moly ones,..
 
I've had two sled's with chrome moly arm's, no bending problems so far. Although I'm sure it can be done! My first set I sold to a buddy, when I sold the sled they were on. He's still using them, they are 6-7 years old now.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top