Suspension / Darting Help!!

snomo101

snomo101

New member
Joined
Oct 9, 2003
Messages
120
Location
Grand Blanc, Michigan
Website
www.rgconcepts.net
Installed M-10 last year and sled rode great. This year replaced front shocks with Works shocks, (extra inch of travel). Adjusted ski alignment to 6mm toe out, new 6" carbides this year. Also replaced track with Camo 9830 with 96 studs.

I am having a problem with darting now and can not figure it out. I let the limiter strap out to the bottom hole, helped darting a bit. Big improvement on hook up still darts though. Installed shims under ski's, tried increasing center ski pressure, nothing has worked. It is much worse on groomed loose power trails rather than hard packed.

HELP!!!!
 

Is the skid flat with the skis??? M10 will make it really tip to the skis and the way to help the darting is to get the entire sled on the same plain
 
I'd bet it's your ski shock sit in. When you jack up the front of a Yamaha, you're pushing the spindles farther away from the chassis, and increasing your ski runner pressure at the front.

How thick of a shim did you use?

Get the sled on a flat garage floor and look at how your carbides sit. If the front is touching and the rear isn't, this is your darting problem. Use enough of a shim to get an 1/8" gap at the front of your turning carbide with the rear touching, and it will slice into ruts like a sharp knife.

This works no matter the ski type or material too. Good luck! I bet that thing rides REALLY nice, eh?
 
When I droped the limiter one hole it made the track sit flat on the ground. Much better hook up. John, I used a shim that I got from a guy at the novi show. Bergstrom skags or something like that. They are about 1/8 thick. The front of the skies / carbides are off the ground 1/2 inch or so.

Yes the ride is awesome, just need to solve the darting
 
I doubt the front of your turning carbide is off that much. How about a pic?

Those 1/8 shims are sometimes enough, but they can be stacked. Scott sent me a mess of them if you'd like another pair.

get a pic up of your carbide wear and how the sled sits, a picture is worth a thousand words after all :)
 
I will get some pictures tommorow. I have extra shims and they are about 1/4" thick, The front of the carbide is up off the ground about 1/2" now with one shim. I am thinking my toe out or camber is not right. I am checking everything again. Thanks for the input.
 
vmaxjohn said:
I doubt the front of your turning carbide is off that much. How about a pic?

Those 1/8 shims are sometimes enough, but they can be stacked. Scott sent me a mess of them if you'd like another pair.

get a pic up of your carbide wear and how the sled sits, a picture is worth a thousand words after all :)
Click to expand...

Shouldn't the skis toe in just a bit?
 
Just to clarify, I want you to measure from the front of your turning carbide, not the front of the bar. I'm talking about the carbide itself, the stuff welded into the host bar.

Depending on the skis, a little toe out is preferable for sharp handling.
 
snomo101 what works shocks did you get i have the book with all the shocks and im thinking of getting works shocks ....are they way better than the stock ones ? another inch of travel thats sweet

buzz
 
PHazer,
Actually you want a little toe out. WHY? With Toe in the darting will increase, as lets say the right ski bites, bcz of toe in, it will turn the sled left and furhter load the right ski multiplying the error of alignment. Now with slight toe out if that same right ski starts to bite it will turn the sled right and load the left ski and unload the errant right ski and lessen the error of alignment. I use to go nutral to slight to in and now am 1/8-1/4 toe out and have much less wander or darting on the trail. my 2 cents yamadoo
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top