Clutching 48-36 and heelclickers

nailsandrails

VIP Member
Joined
Aug 9, 2003
Messages
646
Age
48
Location
Northern, IL
I have a 00 SRX that I am going to clutch with a 48-36 helix and heelclickers. I finally have a gram scale so I can do better tuning. Where would you guys start? I have a large assortment of bolts I can use. I was trying to set this up last year and pulled my hair out.. Come to find out one of the Power Valve cables was wrapped around another causing the power valves not to open all the way. That explained why it kept falling on it's face on the top end. Any suggestions are appreciated.. Using green sec. spring..and red primary...
 

Well you wown't need to add to much weight with that helix and spring,Would start with 4 grams in the heal, 2 grams in the middle and 2 grams in the tip and rap the spring at 80* if your over reving add more weight and if you can't pull the rpm or Maintane 8500 rpm at wot take weight out.
 
h/c, red spring,48/36,green at 60-70

I would suggest you try no weight in the middle of the ramp and use all tip weight, start off at about 5-6 grams out there. You have a nice low finish angle and can use more tip weight and will gain topend, the 36 finish will allow the motor to keep pulling hard up top and not overloading it(bog)
 
That would be a good place to start but with all of the weight in the tip wouldn't that make that set up more for race or radar running.I just was under the impression that you would wont some weight in the middle as well for a good trail set up..
 
h/c

actually, no. When you apply weight to the middle of the h/c, you will often see the response of the engine slow down alot, this is because the h/c weight already acts like a progressive angle helix and will upshift very aggressive. With the new helix being slightly more aggressive on the start, its really upshifting quickly now. To keep the engine revving at a constant smooth rate, you need to move the weight out to the tip, this will allow the engine and clutch to be at the same upward rpm climb rate, with the low finish, you will need more tip weight to control the topend rpm, along with better belt clamp, you also are grabbing the belt better in the front and the rear. The lower finsih angle clamps the belt harder in the secondary, and as a bonus, you can run less secondary spring press. and gain more topend as well, because of the low finish angle.

On the other side of the coin, lets say a piped viper, where you need to run higher topend rpms to be in the meat of the pipe(9100rpm or so), I run more heel weight, barely any middle weight and no tip weight, you just need to have the correct helix angles and it works extremely well.
 
Thank you, you have just answered some questions that ive been asking myself for quite some time.

Thank You..
 
heel weight

You want to run enuff weight to grab the belt good, but yet not pull the motor down too much, srx/vipers like to be shifted hard but everything has its limits. I am guessing on your sled because they are all differnt but would say around 4-6 grams, start off light, and keep adding weight till the engine doesnt respond as fast, for snow you dont want a great big engagement speed.
 


Back
Top