full tilt viper
New member
Just started my piped viper for the first time this season.Normally it will start after about 6-8 pulls. This year it took about 30 pulls ( strange ) Once it started i went to full choke , no problem. Then went to half choke started to clean up a bit seemed normal. Then went to no choke. It cleaned right up as usual sounded good for about 5-8 seconds. Then it would not hold idle and stall. When I'm on the gas from 1\8 and up it comes back. But as soon and you go to let it idle it starts to run on one cylinder then stalls. As soon as i begin to lift up slightly on the choke just into half choke the motor wakes right up a 3 cyliners are firing soungs great . I ran fuel stabilzer through at the end of last season and fogged the motor.I know the idle is set right the sled was running perfectly when i put it away.Any thoughts?
98srx6
New member
Try cleaning the carbs. Also, how are the plugs?
NMMM700
New member
The fogging oil usually fouls the spark plugs upon start-up. Sounds like your sled might have a fouled plug.
rancidjo
New member
98srx6 said:
I agree, fuel stabalizer doesn't always prevent the carb's jets from getting varnished and/or plugged, and the fogging could of easily fouled a plug.
Stabil forms a film on top of the gas, I'd bet you have plugged pilots, or at least partially plugged. Maxdlx
Typical, plugged piolet jets. Get those carbs off and blow them out.
Clean the carbs...
I had the EXACT same issue a week ago when I tried to get my SRX to start for the season. The sled would not idle at all, I changed the plugs and put in new fuel, and still no improvement, I cleaned the carbs, paying particular attention to the idle circuit and pilots etc. and put the carbs back on and we were in business. This brings about another topic however, since this is the second year in a row that I have had a hard time getting the sled fired up in the fall. Is there a better way to store a sled, I get the gas as empty as I can, put in stabilizer, last year it was sta-bil, and this year it was sea foam, and I run the sled for a period of time and then fog the heck out of the engine, and then cover her up and call it good. Every year I have to go through everything all over again. There has to be an easier way, isn't there?
I had the EXACT same issue a week ago when I tried to get my SRX to start for the season. The sled would not idle at all, I changed the plugs and put in new fuel, and still no improvement, I cleaned the carbs, paying particular attention to the idle circuit and pilots etc. and put the carbs back on and we were in business. This brings about another topic however, since this is the second year in a row that I have had a hard time getting the sled fired up in the fall. Is there a better way to store a sled, I get the gas as empty as I can, put in stabilizer, last year it was sta-bil, and this year it was sea foam, and I run the sled for a period of time and then fog the heck out of the engine, and then cover her up and call it good. Every year I have to go through everything all over again. There has to be an easier way, isn't there?
bluehammer
New member
Nope. You could let someone else do it for you and pay the bucks. Cleaning carbs is no where near as bad as pulling blown cylinders and pistons because of dirty carbs.
Yeah its frustrating because our old polaris's we never touched! Just fired on the first pull every year. However they are not as advanced as the carbs on our sleds. Its amazing to have 3 33mm carbs and get fuel injected like throttle response and milieage. I make over 60hp more then the polaris and get better milieage. Price you pay for technology I guess. Now that I cleaned the carbs for the first time this year I won't mind doing it again next year. Just waiting for a nice used apex in the upcoming years and will make a switch to FI and forget carb cleaning!
yamaholic22
Active member
definately plugged pilots, clean those carbs
change_up
New member
Clean carbs, replace plugs. I just piped my sled this summer, had the same thing happen to my 600sx until we got some snow here a few days ago... enough to get the sled out for a night on the feild anyway hehe. Just drying your plugs out don't seem to do the job anymore,,, definetly get new ones even if you don't have to.
ModMMax
New member
Buddy of mine works for John Deere. Claims he was told at a tech school that the best fuel stabalizer is a powder made by Clinton (small engines), available at JD. I have been using it now for several years in sleds, mowers, grass whip and boats and think he is probably right. I have not cleaned a carb since. Everything starts and runs good. I use a little EFI cleaner in the first tank just in case.
woolyviper
New member
I vote to clean the carbs as well - I run Yamaha Fuel Stabilizer in the spring and then drain the carbs after I fog the motor.
Brad_69
New member
Carb problem.
You could do as I do. Remove the carbs and drain them at the end of the season. Do everything you normaly do ( fog engine, grease sled, stabil fuel in tank, and clean power valves). When all is done remove the carbs and remove the bottom drain on the carbs and let the fuel out. I do this to my 01 SRX every year.
You could do as I do. Remove the carbs and drain them at the end of the season. Do everything you normaly do ( fog engine, grease sled, stabil fuel in tank, and clean power valves). When all is done remove the carbs and remove the bottom drain on the carbs and let the fuel out. I do this to my 01 SRX every year.
yamaholic22
Active member
Just remember boys, fuel stabilizer does not maintain octane, still dangerous to run several month old fuel (from spring) in the fall/winter on the higher compression two strokes without knock sensors and fuel/timing compensation. Stabil will keep it from varnishing, but won't keep it fresh.