99 SRX 600 with bogging problem

Jigg

Jigg

New member
Joined
Nov 14, 2003
Messages
274
Age
42
Location
Marblehead, MA
Well, i could go on describing my problem, but since a picture is worth 1000 words, this is going to save me a LOT of writing, lol:

Bogging-SRX

It'll do this for like 20 seconds, then return to completely normal.

I've read about disconnecting the TORS and it possibly being my throttle cable, but i figure, if anybody can tell what it is, it's you guys.

Let me know what you think, Thanks in advance!
 
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yup sounds like TORS to me. Try loosening your throttle cable adjustment some first, and if that doesn't work, bypass the switch (two wires going to a sensor right under the idle screw, connect them together) and see if that does anything for ya. ;)!
 
Thanks guys... the TORS must serve a purpose though right? Are there any adverse effects to bypassing it?
 
tors in incase like your throttle cable were to brake, and stick the sled wide open. The tors would kick in them, basically if the sled is held wide open without the rider doing it, tors will kick in, its a safety feature, have alot of problems with it
 
Thanks again... Sorry for the apparently n00b questions, I can figure anything out when it comes to my Blazer ZR2, but the SRX has baffled the hell out of me quite a few times.
 
hey, no biggy on questions pal, thats what this forum is for, if we didnt wanna help, we wouldnt be part of this place! Godo luck pal
 
Theres a ton of info here on ty.

Once you read up a bit and dig into your sled, you'll get it. A snowmobile is a fairly simple machine.
 
FIRST try loosening the throttle cable, that way the TORS ISN'T bypassed and is still functional, but if that doesn't work the sensor is probably bad so bypassing it will tell you that. If you dont care about the sensor you could just keep it bypassed, if you want the added safety and piece of mind you could get a new sensor if that is found to be the problem.
 
also... if the contacts in the switch located in the throttle lever block are dirty, this will activate TORS... Those contacts are to remain "closed" when the throttle is advanced and maintains a "ground" potential to the CDI...

This switch is frequently the culprit with TORS..

tj..
 
I agree with these guys about the tors....
I would also try to fix it and keep the tors working as it should....if that thing ever hangs wide open you will thank the tors for working...cables can freeze or bind holding the throttle open on the carbs and then... your along for the ride if your still on it!

rock on!
 
Thanks guys... i'll check everything when i get back into town tomorrow, i'm just glad it's something managable, I spent quite awhile last year trying to figure it out.

One other question, I've read on here that the proper way to start these sleds is to not touch the gas at all and then feather the choke until it runs on it's own? I have such a hard time starting it that way, but if i give it a little gas at first, it'll start right up, is this hurting anything? Is something not adjusted correctly that this is the only way it's starting in the first few pulls?

Thanks again, you guys are awesome!
 
The first thing I would check is that is your throttle cable sitting correctly under the pouch/pillow on the steer? I had that same problem, and my throttle cable would catch one of the bolt heads of the bolts that hold the steer to the steering column.
 
I agree about fixing it if it is TORS and understanding how exactly it works...It's a good system, very simple, and meant for your protection...

Disabling it is like cutting out the seat belts from your Buick..lol just my 2 cents.
 
dont they have that little red button on the handle bar, yeah, the kill switch? I do agree that TORS is there for a purpose, and it works good, WHEN it actually works. I havnt had a problem with it yet, but if my sled did stick wide open, I would hit that red button on the right handlebar to kill the sled. Thats waht it is there for.
 
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