studding questions

bluelightning

bluelightning

New member
Joined
Nov 15, 2005
Messages
151
Age
40
Location
bristol CT
hey again all, in case you didnt know im new around here and am a first time sled owner (99 srx700). had a chance to take it out on thursday, we got a bit of snow up here in CT and i just couldnt resist riding it around the yard lol. seems like i would benefit from some picks through. these might be dumb questions, but bear with me please! the track looks somewhat new to me, can i just put studs on it or do i need to buy a new track and stud that? and also, i've poked around a bit and seen a bunch of numbers thrown around about length and # of studs...can anybody give me a rundown about what would be best for me and my sled? i plan on riding about every other weekend once we've got snow, and i'll be taking it up to vermont at least 3 times this winter for 3 days each
 

The first thing to do is go to the woody site or similar and check the correct size stud to use for your stock track sled. Pick the brand stud and backer. Call a friend to help with the studs and go to town. Do a search on this site for studs, patterns and etc and you will find some great people that know their stuff. Good luck.
 
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I would not go less then 144 but we need to know the track lug to help any further. Also is the tunnel and heat exchanger protection installed??
 
that sled pulls very hard...your gonna need 144 at least.
There is a really nice pattern for 144 up the middle. Gets alot of bite.
 
my 99 srx 700 had the stock joke-a-hama track on it, with 192 or 196, i cant remember, and it didnt help abit. You could really benefit from getting a new track, somethign that is gonna bite abit. Otherwise, like said on here already, I would go with 144 MINIMUM! Thanks man, and good luck on studding out your track!
 
yeah i would for sure go with 192 studs with the ripsaw i got that on my sled right now (haven't tried it yet), make sure you change to a 8 tooth driver to gain 7/16th of an inch clearAnce between the cooler, and as MR.SLED said use protectors and u may want to change the gear ratio to bring it back to near stock settings. also may think about puttin viper rear shock in the rear to give more deep snow clearance if you ride a bit off trail and make the 8 tooth drivers less of a sharp angle which i think will increase top speed, u will loose some from the ripsaw , hope this helps

ps NICE NAME TOO ;)!
 
Go 192 and stay away from the middle as much as you can. I realize that w/this many you have to put some towards or in the middle, but remember the greatest support for the track is at the rails. It would be a good idea to make sure there are tunnel and heat exchanger protectors
 
im gonna be honest with you guys, you are kinda speaking some gibberish to me lol. how can i tell if there's a tunnel protector or heat exchanger protector? i can see the rear exchanger clear as day, so im assuming i dont have one there lol. im sorry guys, this is my first sled and i really dont know all the terms. what is "track lug"?

and hey blue lightning nice name lol. but ill be honest, can you slow down what you said a bit? it was way over my head haha
 
tunnel protectors are two rods underneath your tunnel above the track running from the front to the back of the sled. They are usually riveted or welded to the underside of the tunnel. The heat exchanger protectors work the same way. Two square pieces of aluminum that protect the exchanger from studs hitting the exchanger. track lug is a measure of the depth of the track. Not the whole track itself, but the area that sticks out from the main section of the track if that makes any sense. LOL
 
thanks shortstop, gonna go out to the shed and take a look for everything you mentioned right now. if i cant figure out if i have them or not, ill take some pics lol
 
a 99 srx has NO heat exchanger protectors if there is a stock track without studs on it... NOR does it have front exchanger protectors.... I dont think it has tunnel protectors either... Why would someone put protectors on a sled without studs???? MAYBE it HAD STUDS and the track was replaced?????? could be!!!!! 99 SRX's had REALLY BAD JOKEAHAMA tracks installed from Yamaha.... I vaguely remember putting everything on my 99SRX when it was new!!!!! PISSED off that Yamaha didnt put anything on it!!!! Gary Oles nosboy
 
for some reason i couldnt upload the pics off my phone onto my computer, but i guess ill try again tommorow. to be honest, it doesnt look like there's much of any sort of protection under there :( the rear heat exchanger looks like its got some dings in it though...is that from the guy before me having picks? or just normal wear from stuff gettin thrown at it all the time? and thanks nosboy, that pretty much confirms what i saw
 
Just my 2cents, but I'd really encourage you NOT to stud on the outside of your track (i.e. outside edge, beyond where the sliders/hyfax run on the metal clips) Especially if you're going to stay with the existing track with unknown wear/mileage. Both myself, brother and a lot of my buddies have ruined numerous tracks that way.....Especially for a first time rider, if you're looking for good hookup on hard pack and ice/lakes, not super-aggressive straight line exceleration....A good pattern 'down the middle' with lots of scratch lines will give you good hook up. A "scratch line" is how many different stud lines or 'scratches' you would leave on a stretch of ice if you pinned your sled. More is better. It's better to have each stud dig into a 'fresh' patch of ice/snow to give more bite. Decide on a pattern and rather than using a 'template', offset each stud (left or right) by 1/16" or so. If you do it right, when you take off on ice, go back and you should see a a clean patch removed, rather than just a bunch of lines. Make sense?
 
thanks for the info warrior, very informative! and yes it mostly made sense lol. little confused about what you reccomend for a pattern though....
 
First thing's first. I'd start off figuring out how many studs you're gonna put in 'er...Based on that, you'll then know how many studs to put between each lug on the track.....Ex. 4 in each, or 4 then 3 then 4 etc, or whatever....The 'pattern' itself isn't supper important, but try to stick to some basic form. As suggested previously, the Woody's (or any other manuf.'s) site will give you some idea of where to start. From there, use your imagination.....There's no real rules. You want just want the stud placement to differ slightly (one side of the track to the other) from lug to lug, otherwise as the track turns, the studs coming around to make traction will be digging into a spot the previous stud has already torn up...... ;)!
 
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