I'm having trouble understanding the adjustments for my new Expert X. Can anyone guide me through how each adjustment area is adjusted and its actual purpose?
TopGunnSrx
New member
Did you get the manual for it? If not i could probably scan mine and send it to ya it would be easier.
The 2 biggees are spring preload at the bottom of the 2 shocks & shock angle.Tightening the springs by raising the 2 preload adjusters firms up the ride. Also lowering the shock angle by tightening the adjuster bolt lowers the ride height & will also help firm up the ride. I don,t bother with my softness adjuster at the top...just leave it alone.
I had a chance to really look at things tonight. Here are my problems.
When I attempt to adjust the weight transfer (set to the 7th groove) I'm only able to adjust it to about the 4th groove max. The thick black rubber stopper keeps me from going any further. I noticed in the instructions that they don't show this stopper. Should it be there? Also, on the other end where the 18mm nut is, I'm flush with the threads. Nothing is extended out, as shown in the instructions.
The installation in the tech section shows the rubber stopper on the skid before it is in the sled. I can't see if it was removed or not. I'm beginning to believe it should be removed, but don't want to touch it unless I'm sure.
Adjusting the preload on the shocks is very difficult. Should the sled be raised to do this?
Changing the angle of the shocks looks to be just trial and era. No actual set positions, correct?
When I attempt to adjust the weight transfer (set to the 7th groove) I'm only able to adjust it to about the 4th groove max. The thick black rubber stopper keeps me from going any further. I noticed in the instructions that they don't show this stopper. Should it be there? Also, on the other end where the 18mm nut is, I'm flush with the threads. Nothing is extended out, as shown in the instructions.
The installation in the tech section shows the rubber stopper on the skid before it is in the sled. I can't see if it was removed or not. I'm beginning to believe it should be removed, but don't want to touch it unless I'm sure.
Adjusting the preload on the shocks is very difficult. Should the sled be raised to do this?
Changing the angle of the shocks looks to be just trial and era. No actual set positions, correct?
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The rubber stopper should be there but you can cut it down later if yopu like. I kept mine stock size.The rear shock preload is tuff to raise but easy to lower. Your nut should be sticking out a lot. PM me & I will try to get you pics of mine tomorrow. PM me at
brodam@westman.wave.ca
brodam@westman.wave.ca
Still having problems.
02SRX, you have a pm
Turk,
what holes are your limiter straps set at? I spoke with AD Boivin today. They said to raise the sled, crank the hand adjustment all the way to the top and crank the flanged bolt until the limiting straps tighten. Should end up with about 5-7 threads showing beyond the boult when transfer is full. My limiter straps are loose no matter how far I adjust the transfer. I could easily set my straps to the second hole.
This is frustrating. Thaught this was supposed to be simple.
02SRX, you have a pm
Turk,
what holes are your limiter straps set at? I spoke with AD Boivin today. They said to raise the sled, crank the hand adjustment all the way to the top and crank the flanged bolt until the limiting straps tighten. Should end up with about 5-7 threads showing beyond the boult when transfer is full. My limiter straps are loose no matter how far I adjust the transfer. I could easily set my straps to the second hole.
This is frustrating. Thaught this was supposed to be simple.
Trying to help
Hey, I have a few of these suspensions so I thought I'd chime in and try to help. I am a 215lb rider and this is how I set mine up. I usually shorten up the limiter straps one hole from where they come stock (which I believe is all the way out). I rode them all the way out for a year or so because I loved doing wheelies but I don't do that so much anymore. I found that the front end cam up just too much off the line in a drag race and caused spinning and bobbing etc. On the stiffness adjuster I usually have about 1/8 - 1/4" of the bolt sticking out beyond the end of the nut. Leave the rubber stopper on in front of the plastic piece. There is usually a little play between the transfer adjuster and the rubber (maybe 1/8" or so?) and this depends strictly on how much transfer you want. Once you get this adjustment in the neighborhood then just a few turns of the adjuster by hand will make a world of difference in transfer and obviously steering too. Lastly is ride height. I usually have mine at about 3/4. Meaning not quite as high as it will go. You will find that this adjustment has a lot to do with the tippyness of the sled and as TURK stated it will change the shock angle making it either more or less plush. This is the way I like it......I hope this helps you.
Madmatt
Hey, I have a few of these suspensions so I thought I'd chime in and try to help. I am a 215lb rider and this is how I set mine up. I usually shorten up the limiter straps one hole from where they come stock (which I believe is all the way out). I rode them all the way out for a year or so because I loved doing wheelies but I don't do that so much anymore. I found that the front end cam up just too much off the line in a drag race and caused spinning and bobbing etc. On the stiffness adjuster I usually have about 1/8 - 1/4" of the bolt sticking out beyond the end of the nut. Leave the rubber stopper on in front of the plastic piece. There is usually a little play between the transfer adjuster and the rubber (maybe 1/8" or so?) and this depends strictly on how much transfer you want. Once you get this adjustment in the neighborhood then just a few turns of the adjuster by hand will make a world of difference in transfer and obviously steering too. Lastly is ride height. I usually have mine at about 3/4. Meaning not quite as high as it will go. You will find that this adjustment has a lot to do with the tippyness of the sled and as TURK stated it will change the shock angle making it either more or less plush. This is the way I like it......I hope this helps you.
Madmatt
Ok, maybe this is where I'm getting confused.
After reading the manual, this is my understanding:
1. To adjust transfer: this accomplished by adjusting the hand (knurled) adjuster and the flanged nut located inside of the black plastic transfer piece.
2. Stiffness is accomplished by adjusting the spring rate on the shocks.
3. Ride height is accomplished by the shock angle
This doesn't seem to agree with what your telling me
After reading the manual, this is my understanding:
1. To adjust transfer: this accomplished by adjusting the hand (knurled) adjuster and the flanged nut located inside of the black plastic transfer piece.
2. Stiffness is accomplished by adjusting the spring rate on the shocks.
3. Ride height is accomplished by the shock angle
This doesn't seem to agree with what your telling me
jwiedmayer
New member
I have an x also. From memory don't you read the transfer adjustment form the bottom of the adjuster. In other words it looks like yours is adujsted down to basically no weight transfer. The larger the gap (between adjustment nob the the plastic link) the more weight transfers. The nut looks right and don't tighten it anymore.
Ya, You are right. The photo should be the setup for minimal transfer. One of the confusing parts is that AD Boivin told me I should have about 5-7 threads extended beyond the nut. Notice my limiting straps. No tension even when sled is raised and transfer is all the way to full. Should I move the straps to the next hole and shorten them?
jwiedmayer
New member
I'm going to clean my sled up on Friday. I did not move my limit straps. I'll take some pictures. If you want me to send you them send me your email.
VIPER-D
New member
I all so have X who rebuilds these shocks with a fast turn around Iam is s.wis . thanks P.S. I must have a older one in my viper becouse it did not come with that rubber stopper.
acnas
New member
I am having the same Setup problem as Zachalyse did. What ended up being the fix? My straps are loose and for my weight setup it says min on softness drawbar. Indicator is on 1. I have the shocks on 4 and the cam on 1. Should rip out of the hole but spinning. Have a 1 inch hacksaw with 144 studs in the center. Had heelclickers but went back to stock weights with the 53/43 green at 60. Figured I was too aggressive with the hc's but same problem no out of the hole hookup. Transfer knob is all the way up. I don't know what I am missing here? I know this is a old thread but this was all I could find.
Thanks
Thanks
Viper-Rules!
New member
Expert x!
When you raise the sled off the ground, the limiter straps should be tight. If they are not, then something is seriously wrong. When the sled is on the ground there will be a decent amount of slack. This will tighten up when you sit on the sled. I have a zx2 and it works very similar to an x , just easier to adjust. I found ad bovin's weight charts to be off for spring preload. You are better off running the spring preload low around 3 probabily for your weight and straighten out the shock angle to give you a better attack angle. This will give you a nice firm controlled ride, that will ride a bit stiff on the small bumps but nice and firm on the big ones. I noticed on my zx2 some adjustments you can't use on the viper, since the front end is too low. For instance if you change the shock angle so it is tilted, which will make it softer, the sled will tend to piviot on the front of the skid, which will give a good ride but terrible handling. If the skid is new then your problem lies in the height of your front end. Have to get the front end up to get the correct geometery for the x. If you raise your sled you will notice that the front end of the skid is almost on the ground, while the rear is way off? Is that your case?
Good luck steve.
Steve
When you raise the sled off the ground, the limiter straps should be tight. If they are not, then something is seriously wrong. When the sled is on the ground there will be a decent amount of slack. This will tighten up when you sit on the sled. I have a zx2 and it works very similar to an x , just easier to adjust. I found ad bovin's weight charts to be off for spring preload. You are better off running the spring preload low around 3 probabily for your weight and straighten out the shock angle to give you a better attack angle. This will give you a nice firm controlled ride, that will ride a bit stiff on the small bumps but nice and firm on the big ones. I noticed on my zx2 some adjustments you can't use on the viper, since the front end is too low. For instance if you change the shock angle so it is tilted, which will make it softer, the sled will tend to piviot on the front of the skid, which will give a good ride but terrible handling. If the skid is new then your problem lies in the height of your front end. Have to get the front end up to get the correct geometery for the x. If you raise your sled you will notice that the front end of the skid is almost on the ground, while the rear is way off? Is that your case?
Good luck steve.
Steve
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acnas
New member
When you say straighten shock angle adjust the cam 2-3? I have the track pretty loose as well. With the sled up in the air the straps are a little loose. What gives the pressure for the front of the skid. All new to me as a different designed skid?
Viper-Rules!
New member
Expert adjustment!
Basically you have three major adjustments plus the limiter strap on the x. First I would set the shock preload on the cams roughly for your weight. Then I would set the ride height using the adjustment knob, so when you sit on the seat you get about 2-3 inches of sag. Have a friend that is a similar weight to you and measure the rear bumper height from the floor before he sits on the sled and after words. Then set the front preload up to match the rear so you can get the proper balance. Best to raise the front end and back the cams off until the retainers are loose and then tighten 2-3 turns. Then you can adjust it from there on the trail. When you sit on the sled the front shouldn't go down or up drastically either. Up an half or inch or so would be ideal. Then after that is all acomplished, adjust the weight transfer knob to a netural setting and leave the limiter strap alone. Should hook up great after you have done this.
Steve
Basically you have three major adjustments plus the limiter strap on the x. First I would set the shock preload on the cams roughly for your weight. Then I would set the ride height using the adjustment knob, so when you sit on the seat you get about 2-3 inches of sag. Have a friend that is a similar weight to you and measure the rear bumper height from the floor before he sits on the sled and after words. Then set the front preload up to match the rear so you can get the proper balance. Best to raise the front end and back the cams off until the retainers are loose and then tighten 2-3 turns. Then you can adjust it from there on the trail. When you sit on the sled the front shouldn't go down or up drastically either. Up an half or inch or so would be ideal. Then after that is all acomplished, adjust the weight transfer knob to a netural setting and leave the limiter strap alone. Should hook up great after you have done this.
Steve