Yamaha torque limiter installation?

BigMac

BigMac

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Feb 3, 2005
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Location
Brainerd Lakes area, Minnesota
Piped 2002 Viper and the clutches have become seriously out of alignment. I have the Yamaha Torque Limiter kit, but it didn't come with instructions.

Can anybody explain how to put one of these doodads in, or point me to a source for installation instructions?

smaenginstay-250.jpg
 
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just helped ron put one in today. the little bracket goes on the motor (holes are there) with the short button head bolts (no washers)

the large bracket goes where rich has the picture with the short hex head bolts with washers on the outside of the bulkhead.

if you have a vise, the bushings need to be pressed inby insertion and squeese till they are flush in the dogbone. (start them with the vise get them to go as far as you can then take a socket (i think 14mm) and use that in conjection with the vise to finish the flush set.

longest bolt in rear mount through the bulkhead, shorter long bolt in the front mount.

having the primary, secondary, airbox, off and the carbs out of the boots and loose will help alot.

make sure all the front motor mount bolts are inplace especially in the cases (prone to loosening and breaking)

if the motor has moved, you will need to loosen all four mounts and readjust until the dogbone allows you to mount the tensioner without any stress. double check offset and center to center before, during and after.

if you were closer, i'd offer to do it for you. i have done alot of them. i much perfer the oem tensioner over the snubber types from slp beacuse ALL of the holes are already there and this is just a plug n play accy add on. ski
 
skidooboy said:
just helped ron put one in today. the little bracket goes on the motor (holes are there) with the short button head bolts (no washers)

the large bracket goes where rich has the picture with the short hex head bolts with washers on the outside of the bulkhead.

if you have a vise, the bushings need to be pressed inby insertion and squeese till they are flush in the dogbone. (start them with the vise get them to go as far as you can then take a socket (i think 14mm) and use that in conjection with the vise to finish the flush set.

longest bolt in rear mount through the bulkhead, shorter long bolt in the front mount.

having the primary, secondary, airbox, off and the carbs out of the boots and loose will help alot.

make sure all the front motor mount bolts are inplace especially in the cases (prone to loosening and breaking)

if the motor has moved, you will need to loosen all four mounts and readjust until the dogbone allows you to mount the tensioner without any stress. double check offset and center to center before, during and after.

if you were closer, i'd offer to do it for you. i have done alot of them. i much perfer the oem tensioner over the snubber types from slp beacuse ALL of the holes are already there and this is just a plug n play accy add on. ski
Click to expand...

And that fills in the rest of the blanks. Perfect. Thanks.

I wish you were closer too, but I don't anticipate any problems and I have a list of other things that need doing. I already have the machine on the air table and gotta realign the clutches anyway (Sled Pro tool on the way). And to do that, I have to pull the pipes (those Bender triples are a bitch..), so I'm going to clean and readjust the power valves. Gotta pull the carbs and the secondary anyway to get it back to this altitude (set for the Snowy Range).

The belt is way too tight and they keep shredding. I wouldn't be surprised to see a broken mounting bolt, I suppose. I've had the Yammie torque limiter for a couple of seasons but never got around to figuring out how to put it on.

Thanks again,

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Question: I'm installing this SRX Yamaha Torque Limiter kit in my piped viper as the Hauck button torque limiter has failed me after a few years. What clutch alignment tool do I use? The one for the Viper that allows for motor twist when motor accelerates. Or do I use the SRX clutch alignment tool now on my Viper?
 
I have a used one of these for sale if anyone needs one. also, i have found they can make ajusting the clutches hard. CC wants to bee too far so I use regular bolt used in yamaha sleds, cant rember where it is from but the shaft part is smaller with the same threads, this allows you to move the motor closer or further a coulpe mm.
 
Make sure you Loctite the bolts through the dogbone,especially the one behind the secondary.I put a slightly longer bolt and an extra nut on the backside to boot.If that one backs out it contacts the secondary sheave at high speed before it falls out of the bulkhead.Trust me,no good comes from that.
 
Is this essential for all Vipers?

I notice most of yours are modded. My 02 is stock and I (at least now) plan on keeping it that way.

Is this still something I should look to have done?

I am semi-mechanically inclined but would almost prefer to have someone who has done this before handle it.
 
it is simple, just pull your clutchs and carbs. if it is non electric start, install a front srx mount as well.
 
Fair enough.

I see Pioneer Performance sell a kit. What style is that?

I was thinking about sending my shocks there in the off season.
 
if it has a gold dogbone looking thing, it is a factory one. This is the only one that works. I bet if you looked on hauck, bender and maximum drag sleds when they first started selling those cheepo ones, their drag sleds didint have them. They wont last

I have one of these for sale left, 25 shipped
pm me if anyone wants one.
 
I purchased the one from bender.And was able to sneak in there without pulling cluthes.Checked alignment all good.wasnt easy.But done.
 
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