136" suspension set up?

n2oiroc

n2oiroc

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i noticed on my last ride that ski pressure was a little light and i couldnt get much weight transfer out of it. i see that the rear of the suspension isnt putting down any pressure, its all in the front as you can see the paddles bending in the pics, and the hifax is wearing hard towards the front wheels. i pulled the limiters to 1.5" and its still front biased. the rear mount is dropped 2.25" so that really should have helped. i also cant set the transfer rods to full transfer, they bottom at the second to lowest line. should i remove the bottoom 2.5mm spacer?
 

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Dave what do you mean your transfer rods bottom if you set them to full transfer? Also, yes i would put a smaller spacer on the bottom if you want it to extend a little more. I wouldn't worry about the slides wearing, they will wear fast almost to the wear line and then wont wear anymore if you ride in good conditions.
 
yamaholic22 said:
Dave what do you mean your transfer rods bottom if you set them to full transfer? Also, yes i would put a smaller spacer on the bottom if you want it to extend a little more. I wouldn't worry about the slides wearing, they will wear fast almost to the wear line and then wont wear anymore if you ride in good conditions.
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ok, scratch the transfer rod bottoming part, i meant when i would set the nuts to full transfer there was no gap. there must have been snow stuck last time. here is a pic with it set at full transfer, there is a little gap. im mostly trying to figure out how to get more pressure at the rear of the track and to get it to transfer for off trail. at max transfer it picks up the skis 2" tops!
 

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In the picture right there you have them set at minimum transfer. All those lines about the nut on the control rod are indicator lines, and you are at the very bottom. Twist the nuts all the way to the top to make the gap above the control rod guide bigger, and it will transfer much better.
 
yamaholic22 said:
In the picture right there you have them set at minimum transfer. All those lines about the nut on the control rod are indicator lines, and you are at the very bottom. Twist the nuts all the way to the top to make the gap above the control rod guide bigger, and it will transfer much better.
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i had my directions backwards. i thought more lines showing was more transfer. thats weird, the farther down they go, the worse it rides, but it transfers better!
 
that doesn't make sense? Try turning them all the way to the top and jumping on some hardpack. That thing will buck you off the back. ;)!
 
yamaholic22 said:
that doesn't make sense? Try turning them all the way to the top and jumping on some hardpack. That thing will buck you off the back. ;)!
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thats how i was riding, all the way to the top. it was great in the moguls! the last day i tried it to the bottom line and it rode rough, but transfered better! maybe the snow was more set up the last day. either way it doesnt transfer worth a crap! lol!
 
with full transfer ( less coupling ) it will ride softer because each spring is working independently of each other, versa coupled it works both springs togeather = stiffer ride IMO. run mine with set with alot of transfer and it will pull skis easily with just a crack of the throttle
 
i removed the 5mm spacers off the bottom of the rods. i now have a 2.5mm top and 2.5mm bottom spacer. it did help drop the rear more.
 
i still need to figure out a way to get more transfer. i have the center spring cranked all the way up, the rear spring on the looser side and the transfer rods set to full. even last year with the stock 121" and a ripsaw the skis were always on the ground! what am i doing wrong!
 
letting your limiters out will help as well, they probably have slack in them when you are sitting on the sled anyway, so it won't hurt anything to loosen them.
 
n2oiroc said:
yep, i have tried both ways. is the transfer really that bad on the pro action?
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No, you have something else going on there. With a tight center spring, loose limiters, and transfer rods (and obviously a good track on hardpack), the proaction can really transfer hard.
 
Having the 136 now you may not get that much ski lift because the longer rails have a lot more leverage in holding the front down, but it should still hook up VERY well when set up right.
 
yamaholic22 said:
Having the 136 now you may not get that much ski lift because the longer rails have a lot more leverage in holding the front down, but it should still hook up VERY well when set up right.
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before i extended it, it was stock with a ripsaw on it and it would still keep the skis on the ground.
 
n2oiroc said:
before i extended it, it was stock with a ripsaw on it and it would still keep the skis on the ground.
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you should just bring that thing out sometime this weekend and we can see what's going on. Not sure when i'll have time but i'm sure i will friday or saturday sometime.
 
Don't be to concerned with the actaul transfer. Is it hooking up? I had an Expert X that actually transfered too much. Transferring does not mean better traction. Set your transfer so to a min while still getting good traction. More than that and your using HP to keep your ski's in the air instead of using it to propel the sled forward. I just did extensive testing on this.
As for having little ski pressure. I just did the 136 ext to my viper also. I noticed that I needed to take some preload out of the middle shock or the sled kind of pivoted on that center shock making the sled push real bad. I am still working this out of mine. My 136 transfers well and hooks really hard with straps pulled half way up, and preload set soft of middle shock. I have stock rods, just ordered Maxx rods, but it transfers perfect. I bought the rods to control the negative transfer to get the back end of the track back on the ground just like you talked about. I think it is backwards to what your thinking. I know I had to really play around with mine and it didn't start making sense and working out until I started adjusting the opposite of how you would think. By adding spacers to the bottom you will actually push the back of the track down. It's a geometry thing.
Do this, put weight on the back of the sled until the track sits flat on the ground. Now measure the gap at the bottom of your rod. Fill that gap with spacers. Probably going to be somewhere 10-15 mm. You are in essense extending or lengthening the rod which is part of your problem. When you shim it it will take away from the transfer so you will need to open up your rods to accomodate. It defies common sense but seems to work. I am still experimenting and will continue to post my results.
 
it will never transfer worth a crap with that setup.if you want some advice on makeing it transfer here you go.remove your transfer rods off the sled put the bottom bolts in the holes that are the next closer to the front of the sled.set the rods for max transfer and cut the differance off the top of the rods so they will go back on the top axle.weld them up and reinstall.HOLD ON.len
 
If you want an easier way to make your sled transfer, get rid of the transfer rods altogether. Install a transfer enhancement kit from Mountain Performance Inc. You will save about 5 pounds, and have all the transfer you want with easy adjustments. The kit only costs about $50 and you could probably sell you old transfer rods for around that. Have the kit on my sled and I really like it.
 
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