YamiSmurf
New member
At one time, someone listed a makeshift clutching tool that would compressed the primary clutch and possibly the secondary. The device may have been made of a large bolt, nut and other pieces in question. It may have been SRXRULES, but not sure. I looked under the tech section, but it's not listed. Thanks for your help.
Happy New Year!!!
YS
Happy New Year!!!
YS
richierich
New member
I have the clutch service tool that allows you to compress the primary on the sled.i think what your talking about is when you have the clutch off to compress it to get the cover off.all that is a threaded rod and nut or i just use my hands.also a drill press works nice when you have stiff springs to change.
YamiSmurf
New member
Yeah, It compresses the clutch to allow the removel of weights or change a spring etc with the clutch removed from the machine. Someone posted pics of one made from pieces purchased at Lowe's for less then 5 bucks. I've seen the ones in the catalogs, but will only need it once or twice at the most.
YS
YS
richierich
New member
you dont even need that if your only changing it once.just be carefull when your removing the cover to not nic the bushing.or like i said use a drill press to hold it down while you take the bolts out or just get a piece of threaded rod and a big washer and nut.
n2oiroc
New member
on my polaris i remove the cover bolts and slowly back out the clutch bolt. then i use the clutch bolt to compress it again.
yamaholic22
Active member
unless you have a very strong aftermarket spring it is easy to just hold the cover with your palm and the sheave with your fingers while you start some of the bolts.
richierich
New member
red heelclicker spring's are no match for your kung-fu mike 
BigMac
New member
Just got done reclutching the Viper. I have the spring compressing tool, but actually I find it easier to just remove the cover. Don't forget to mark the cover and the clutch so the cover goes back on the same way. I reassemble by using some 45mm long cheater M7 .100 pitch cheater bolts. They are longer than the cover bolts - I put three of them in there and sequentially tighten them down until the cover is close enough for the Yammie bolts, tighten those three down, remove the cheaters and put the other three bolts in their place. Torque to 10 ft-lbs and go ride.
YamiSmurf
New member
Thanks for the info. I thought it would be easier to do the clutching alone if there was a cheap compression tool. I didn't realize you could compress the clutch using a bolt, washers and a nut.
YS
YS
BigMac
New member
YamiSmurf said:
Well, that's not exactly right. The reason to remove the cover is to avoid having to compress the clutch. If you remove the six bolts that hold the cover on, the cover and clutch spring will come right off leaving you with all the room in the world to change weights and rollers. Reassembly is the hard part to do alone because when you slide the clutch spring on, you'll have to push pretty hard to get the cover close enough to the clutch to get the 6 bolts back in there. Hard to do without three hands. That's why I use the 45mm long "cheater bolts" - they allow me to get the cover close enough against the spring pressure to get the Yammie cover bolt back on. No washers or nuts required, just the 3 cheater bolts.
JLSXR700
New member
BigMac -- I think I saw your technique in a recent SnowTech article. Could've been one of the other mags though. Maybe American Snowmobiler or Sno-Goer. I just remember reading and seeing pictures of the technique with the longer cheater bolts you just described. Sounds like it works pretty slick!
BigMac
New member
JLSXR700 said:
I got the idea a couple of years ago from an article on Off-Road.com. It works very well and certainly simplifies the process.
Waterfoul
New member
That's how I've been told to do it too Bigmac.... and my cover is off at the moment (changing weights) and I will be using the longer "cheater" bolts to put it back on.