Studding ripsaw track???


nick.you will have to install smaller drivers.re-gearing really isnt needed.

drivers are $45 each for oem.i have 2 new ones and 2 new take off's in 8 tooth for $140 shipped.that all you really need.any questions let me know.
 
The only reason that i would like to re-gear it is, is because i do not want to lose top end speed to gain quickness out of the hole...i think thats what will happen, but if it is the other way i would just like to keep the gearing stock, or what would be stock with the smaller drivers... do you know how big of studs i could possibly go with???
 
Deffinantly re gear and install the drivers. I just run 144 1.350's for studs.

I got kimpex drivers inners were 20 a piece, and outers were 22 a piece. To me they were just as good if not better then oem. I bought mine from the local yamaha dealer.

The only thing I haven't done is change the speedometer so its right. I put in epi gears and chain, that is also up to you. I suggest a little lower ratio then stock.

I went 24 35 for my gearing.
 
If it's not too late, buy 8 tooth anti ratchet or no slip drivers. Micro Belmont in Grand Rapids MI has them. Yami's always require a pretty tight track or they will ratchet. I put 8 tooth no slips in my 780 viper and they are amazing. One of the best mods I have done. You only need two of them not four. Without question, I will not own another sled without them. As for gearing, I went to a 136 ripsaw, and geared up 2 teeth on top sprocket and am still getting huge MPH for that big track. I am seeing nearly 130 on speedo on half mile runs. As for studs, I would'nt go more that 1.375's. That's what I have and they are tickeling the tunnel in a few spots. Partially because I can run the track so rediculously loose it was slapping at the top of the tunnel a little. Good luck, FYI, you will have around $150 in to the two drivers. Don't let a small dollar amount sway your decision. For less than $100 difference, it's the best money you could spend.
 
only thing about him using anti-ratchets is he has a 9921 ripsaw which isnt fully clipped.otherwise i would agree and go with the anti's.they do make a fully clipped version but sounds like he has the track already.

the kimpex drivers arent as good as oem because the drive nubs are quite a bit smaller.i've seen them skip on sleds.its better to spend alittle extra now and do it right then have to take it apart later and spend more money.

if you decide you want the anti's i have them for $140 a pair and the gears are $35 for top's and $50 for bottoms ( epi brand)
 
richierich said:
only thing about him using anti-ratchets is he has a 9921 ripsaw which isnt fully clipped.otherwise i would agree and go with the anti's.they do make a fully clipped version but sounds like he has the track already.

the kimpex drivers arent as good as oem because the drive nubs are quite a bit smaller.i've seen them skip on sleds.its better to spend alittle extra now and do it right then have to take it apart later and spend more money.

if you decide you want the anti's i have them for $140 a pair and the gears are $35 for top's and $50 for bottoms ( epi brand)
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Rich, we lathe our nubs down. And haven't had a skipping problem,done this on a few machines also. It lets it roll alot easier. I make sure everything is trued up.
 
Several people have studded without smaller drivers, they are clipping the track lugs where they contact the tunnel and heat protectors to allow the track to spin freely . They are only taking off an 1/8" or so I believe. Do a search on "ripsaw studding" you should be able to find it!
 
There's not enough clearance between the tunnel and the track for the tunnel protectors unless you clip the lugs where the protectors hit the track. You have to have the protectors to prevent the studs from hitting the tunnel! You only have to clip enough of the lug so that the track doesn't hit the protectors.
 
I just installed a 1 1/4" fully clipped rip-saw on my '01 SRX. I went with 8 tooth anti-ratchets and the track just clears the front heat exchanger protectors by about 1/8". You can see the shiny spot where they rub a little. Definitely go with the anti-ratchets, you can run a looser track and that is easier on everything.
 
airtimerascal said:
I just installed a 1 1/4" fully clipped rip-saw on my '01 SRX. I went with 8 tooth anti-ratchets and the track just clears the front heat exchanger protectors by about 1/8". You can see the shiny spot where they rub a little. Definitely go with the anti-ratchets, you can run a looser track and that is easier on everything.
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Did you pick the ripsaw?? Im doing this with mine ,and I was hoping there was a little more room than a 1/8th clearence..
 
BoRnWiThBlUeBlOoD said:
ohhhhhhh ok i gotcha... so your saying that if i cut the track in a certain place (where it hits the tunnel protectors) and then stud it i can still keep my 9 tooth drivers on? because cutting the track would stop it at the point before the studs hit?
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bad idea. if you do that, then the studs move that much closer to the exchangers and tunnel. i have some light scratches in my tunnel and i didnt noch it, if you do you are almost guranteed to shred it unless the track is rubber band tight! i really dont like taking the chance of shredding the tunnel or heat exchanger. you can get used drivers for under $50, although i would recommend extroverts. if you trail ride and dont care about losing 5 mph top speed then regearing isnt necessary either.
 
Alrite well thanks for all the suggestions, it turns out that im jsut going to wait a little longer before i go and stud it, i live in VT and so far this year we havn't gotten anything for snow, right now as i speak, its raining and its suppose to rain for the next few days. so there goes all our snow, my dads sled as 192 studs and i counted the amount of bent ones for him the other day so he can order some new ones, and there were 75 bent ones, 10 of which are ripped out of the track, this is just from riding last year and this year. so i think im going to wait a little longer before i go and put studs in and then just bend them riding around in the crappy conditions around here. thanks
-Nick
 
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