eXTaCy
New member
I have installed a 136 m-10 into my 02 Viper. The rear of the sled doesn’t seem to sit as high as a lot of the other sleds that I have seen with M-10s in them. We set it up using the supplied Fast specs for my weight and it seems to work well but I need to try and get a little more transfer. I am interested in hearing what set up you guys are using on your m-10s and how it works for you. I am specifically interested in hearing what limiter strap setting and F.R.A. angel you are using in comparison to body weight. Thanks in advance.
vipertripplexxx
New member
Are you trail riding , or mountain riding?
eXTaCy
New member
Sorry I guess I should have included that in my original post. Mostly cross country/ditch bangin and a little trail riding
vipertripplexxx
New member
Setting up an m-10
If your not drag racing, throw the limiter in the garbage(or you can just take it off). About the only thing a limiter is good for is holding down ski lift. If you set up the suspension correctly you can have the added travel, without the lift problem. If your an agressive rider, set the rear track shock preload two full turns more than the fast recomendation. Also set the bottoming spring pad 1/4" lower, so it bottoms sooner, you won't even notice this most of the time, and Fast's setting is very wimpy. Set the FRA to your weight, or you can just start out at one or two notches higher, thats were I like it.
Moving on to the front track preload. You can start with the Fast setting, but it's way to soft in my opinion. I like to keep turning it up until the rear of the sled begins to fishtail/wag. Then turn it down until you have the control you prefer. Ya know when you put the little woman on your sled thats set for heavy rider, she complains (imagine that) about how it's all over the trail! Thats because the center shock preload is too high, causing the rear of the sled to jump around. Setting this way will allow you to pivot (kick out) the sled in the corners, even with studs. It requires alot less front spring pressure for turning. If you need more transfer you can cut down the blocks 1/4 at a time until you get good transfer, don't over do it, or your handling will suffer. Without the limiters, the suspension can use it's full potential in the big stuff, This gives more suspension drop, causing the sled to float over the bumps. If you are a lighter rider (under 200lbs) you can benefit from taking out a little rebound dampening on both shocks. When you do a shock rebuild, pull the first two washers closest to the nut out. They are the smallest ones, closest to the nut. This is the high speed rebound dampening, this will push the skid out of the sled faster, when fully compressed, not affecting little bumps much at all. You will notice a better ride in the big stuff because the skid will not pack up into the tunnel. Fast sets up the valving for maximum spring preloads, and doing this really helps the suspension work correctly.
Setup for the mountains is totally different, this is a trail setup.
If your not drag racing, throw the limiter in the garbage(or you can just take it off). About the only thing a limiter is good for is holding down ski lift. If you set up the suspension correctly you can have the added travel, without the lift problem. If your an agressive rider, set the rear track shock preload two full turns more than the fast recomendation. Also set the bottoming spring pad 1/4" lower, so it bottoms sooner, you won't even notice this most of the time, and Fast's setting is very wimpy. Set the FRA to your weight, or you can just start out at one or two notches higher, thats were I like it.
Moving on to the front track preload. You can start with the Fast setting, but it's way to soft in my opinion. I like to keep turning it up until the rear of the sled begins to fishtail/wag. Then turn it down until you have the control you prefer. Ya know when you put the little woman on your sled thats set for heavy rider, she complains (imagine that) about how it's all over the trail! Thats because the center shock preload is too high, causing the rear of the sled to jump around. Setting this way will allow you to pivot (kick out) the sled in the corners, even with studs. It requires alot less front spring pressure for turning. If you need more transfer you can cut down the blocks 1/4 at a time until you get good transfer, don't over do it, or your handling will suffer. Without the limiters, the suspension can use it's full potential in the big stuff, This gives more suspension drop, causing the sled to float over the bumps. If you are a lighter rider (under 200lbs) you can benefit from taking out a little rebound dampening on both shocks. When you do a shock rebuild, pull the first two washers closest to the nut out. They are the smallest ones, closest to the nut. This is the high speed rebound dampening, this will push the skid out of the sled faster, when fully compressed, not affecting little bumps much at all. You will notice a better ride in the big stuff because the skid will not pack up into the tunnel. Fast sets up the valving for maximum spring preloads, and doing this really helps the suspension work correctly.
Setup for the mountains is totally different, this is a trail setup.
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eXTaCy
New member
Wow, thanks for all of the info.