ips for use with h/c weights:
1.) use 15 or 15.6 rollers-I know, you wanna know why now,- you cant simply hook up the smaller rollers, they explode with too much low end and it is about impossible to get traction, and its a much better shift curve with the larger rollers. You run more weight in the arms with bigger rollers!
2.) Use red primary spring only, 230/360 rate, its the only spring that allows you to run any amount of weight in the arms so to make the h/c advantageous to use.The softer springs simply just dont produce the performance without the enabling of weight in the arms.
3.) If your running a srx or viper with stock pipe at 8500rpm, then you want to use alot of heel weight and tip weight only, leave the middle hole empty, this allows you to tune in the engagement, and keep the top end of the sled, by using the middle hole it slows down the response from the engine and ruins the shift curve.
4.) you need a shallow finsih angle to use h/c's anything from a 50'ish start to a 34 finish works good, some of the common helix I use all the time are: 50/36, 51/38, 48/34, 48/36, 49/36, you get the idea, stay shallow on the finish and it will pull very respctable topend and allows you to run lots of tip weight, so now your hanging onto the belt in both the primary and the secondary. The h/c weights already act like a progressive angle helix, so your not gonna be up in the big helix start/finish angles now. A shallow finish does 2 things it clamps the belt harder in the secondary and does not require as much spring tension from the secondary spring because of this, by using only enough rear secondary spring tension it will allow the sled to run faster on topend, you only want to control the shift with the rear spring tension, not over power it!
5.)Moving onto the piped sleds, sxr, viper , etc sleds that run over 8600rpms, I am talking in the neighborhod of 8800-9100rpm, this pretty much covers all the pipes out there. You want to run as much heel weight as the motor will pull without bogging it down, then you will use a slight amount of weight in the CENTER hole, and leaving the TIP empty. The reason is this, when its piped its has a narrower torq/power band most of the time and when its shifted hard it has a hard time to recover before being brought down back into the meat of the power curve. Its alot like ripping a std shift 5.0 mustang, you side step the clutch at 6000rpm, and the tires are burning, you keep the gas mashed and then you shift to 2nd, car is starting to move out very quickly, then you shift to 5th, the motor will bog and just make noise, has no real pull to it, takes along time and distance to recover from the overshift. When you have pipes on a sled, this becomes more evident.
6.) In some applications I run 5,6,7 washers in the heel to get the clutch to hang onto the belt, this gives you a nice low engagement and really hangs onto the belt for a super good holeshot, will stretch your arms. stay around 4000rpm for snow. I also sometimes run the long bolt and 3-4 washers on the tip, the only thing you have to do is watch the clearance to the spider, it sometimes requires you to simply just face off the bolt slightly on the rounded head on a grinder to clear the spider sides, easy to check, just swing the weight thru its cycle without the primary spring in it.
This is the basic things to do, you have to test, retest, test, to get it fine tuned, but h/c's work very well and I use them all the time. I have not found any weights that are close to the same kind of clamping power other then the supertips that srxspec sells are equally good, I am working with them now, they show great potential. I have set up enough sleds that I can just about guess to within a 1-200rpm range of what will work, these weights work!!, but you have to follow some of these guidelines, or youll be pulling your hair out !
1.) use 15 or 15.6 rollers-I know, you wanna know why now,- you cant simply hook up the smaller rollers, they explode with too much low end and it is about impossible to get traction, and its a much better shift curve with the larger rollers. You run more weight in the arms with bigger rollers!
2.) Use red primary spring only, 230/360 rate, its the only spring that allows you to run any amount of weight in the arms so to make the h/c advantageous to use.The softer springs simply just dont produce the performance without the enabling of weight in the arms.
3.) If your running a srx or viper with stock pipe at 8500rpm, then you want to use alot of heel weight and tip weight only, leave the middle hole empty, this allows you to tune in the engagement, and keep the top end of the sled, by using the middle hole it slows down the response from the engine and ruins the shift curve.
4.) you need a shallow finsih angle to use h/c's anything from a 50'ish start to a 34 finish works good, some of the common helix I use all the time are: 50/36, 51/38, 48/34, 48/36, 49/36, you get the idea, stay shallow on the finish and it will pull very respctable topend and allows you to run lots of tip weight, so now your hanging onto the belt in both the primary and the secondary. The h/c weights already act like a progressive angle helix, so your not gonna be up in the big helix start/finish angles now. A shallow finish does 2 things it clamps the belt harder in the secondary and does not require as much spring tension from the secondary spring because of this, by using only enough rear secondary spring tension it will allow the sled to run faster on topend, you only want to control the shift with the rear spring tension, not over power it!
5.)Moving onto the piped sleds, sxr, viper , etc sleds that run over 8600rpms, I am talking in the neighborhod of 8800-9100rpm, this pretty much covers all the pipes out there. You want to run as much heel weight as the motor will pull without bogging it down, then you will use a slight amount of weight in the CENTER hole, and leaving the TIP empty. The reason is this, when its piped its has a narrower torq/power band most of the time and when its shifted hard it has a hard time to recover before being brought down back into the meat of the power curve. Its alot like ripping a std shift 5.0 mustang, you side step the clutch at 6000rpm, and the tires are burning, you keep the gas mashed and then you shift to 2nd, car is starting to move out very quickly, then you shift to 5th, the motor will bog and just make noise, has no real pull to it, takes along time and distance to recover from the overshift. When you have pipes on a sled, this becomes more evident.
6.) In some applications I run 5,6,7 washers in the heel to get the clutch to hang onto the belt, this gives you a nice low engagement and really hangs onto the belt for a super good holeshot, will stretch your arms. stay around 4000rpm for snow. I also sometimes run the long bolt and 3-4 washers on the tip, the only thing you have to do is watch the clearance to the spider, it sometimes requires you to simply just face off the bolt slightly on the rounded head on a grinder to clear the spider sides, easy to check, just swing the weight thru its cycle without the primary spring in it.
This is the basic things to do, you have to test, retest, test, to get it fine tuned, but h/c's work very well and I use them all the time. I have not found any weights that are close to the same kind of clamping power other then the supertips that srxspec sells are equally good, I am working with them now, they show great potential. I have set up enough sleds that I can just about guess to within a 1-200rpm range of what will work, these weights work!!, but you have to follow some of these guidelines, or youll be pulling your hair out !
redsnake3
New member
nicely put.
good post mrviper
good post mrviper
01sxr700
VIP Member
H/C Weights
I ran these wieghts for 4 years and the last time that I was out one of the heels broke off and ripped a hole in the belly pan. There was very little wear in the bushing, I had just check the side play, I thought the weights were in great shape till this happened. Don't think that I will buy a new set. Just my opinion.
I ran these wieghts for 4 years and the last time that I was out one of the heels broke off and ripped a hole in the belly pan. There was very little wear in the bushing, I had just check the side play, I thought the weights were in great shape till this happened. Don't think that I will buy a new set. Just my opinion.
quebec#1
New member
Would the kit work well with stock weights ? right now i am running a 48/40 helix 3grams heel, 1st hole empty & 3 grams tip with the red primary spring & a green yammie secondary spring at 60 degree twist.
Im very concern that these weights are going to blow up on me , I like my set up and seem to be reving at 8500 on top , would i get the same if i switched the heel clikers for the stock weights and left the red primary and green secondary with the 48/40 helix ?
Im very concern that these weights are going to blow up on me , I like my set up and seem to be reving at 8500 on top , would i get the same if i switched the heel clikers for the stock weights and left the red primary and green secondary with the 48/40 helix ?
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