V
vipethis
Guest
Hey guys,
I just installed this transfer enhancement kit from mountain but that AIN"T working!!!!!!!
It is doing the same thing and running with no tranfer rods. Fake wheelies all day!!! There is no way of limiting travel with a couple of straps!!!!!! WTF!!!
NOW, can I tie the front limits down more to rectify this or what???
Transfer rods back on????????
I should have not f@#(*$^ with this at all!!!!
This is why I liked my Polaris junk. They just know how to get a sled to tranfer weight for us light guys!!!!
Any help on this appreciated!!
PS Polaris still falls short in other areas so don't hate me too bad yet!! hahaha
I just installed this transfer enhancement kit from mountain but that AIN"T working!!!!!!!
It is doing the same thing and running with no tranfer rods. Fake wheelies all day!!! There is no way of limiting travel with a couple of straps!!!!!! WTF!!!
NOW, can I tie the front limits down more to rectify this or what???
Transfer rods back on????????
I should have not f@#(*$^ with this at all!!!!
This is why I liked my Polaris junk. They just know how to get a sled to tranfer weight for us light guys!!!!
Any help on this appreciated!!
PS Polaris still falls short in other areas so don't hate me too bad yet!! hahaha
When you give it full throtle do the ski's come off the ground or don't they come offat all?
What are you trying to accomplish? Weight transfer IS basically a fake wheelie! Its transfering the weight off you ski's ,but keeping your track planted in order to provide traction for acceleration! So what is it you want?
..SNAKEBIT..
VIP Member
post where your suspension is set at
front limit straps? I would bet you are going to have to reset this!
set sled on flat floor and adjust for a litlle play? maybe in front?
I always wondered how they said you could adjust transfer with that kit??????????????
all that it does is eliminate the coupling, letting it rock back on the rear of the suspension, so you will have to readjust your front straps IMO
front limit straps? I would bet you are going to have to reset this!
set sled on flat floor and adjust for a litlle play? maybe in front?
I always wondered how they said you could adjust transfer with that kit??????????????
all that it does is eliminate the coupling, letting it rock back on the rear of the suspension, so you will have to readjust your front straps IMO
RJH
New member
transfer
I’m sure the same “design criteria” is in the late models sleds as slightly older ones. The suspensions do work well – but the geometry is such that the stock bolted suspension is not conducive in ski lift - in other words – the angles of suspension rails are always planting the skis in the snow – no matter what.
The skis will lift – as you get up in HP and some can come over backwards but it’s the result of the chassis rotating around the track – not weight transfer.
Yes – quite simple on the Polaris – you just make the front lower than the back – and skis come off the snow. It must be a liability thing – where Yamaha don’t want you to smash into any trees!
Even with transfer rods – the Yamaha front suspension will always be higher up in the chassis than the back. (NOTE: Adjusting aftermarket transfer rods too much will put huge amounts of slack in the track – during transfer.) When Yamaha first started this design – you could simply drill a couple more holes in the chassis – lower the suspension physically – problem solved. Today – or at least on mine – the track angle at the suspension is so acute – any chance of physically lowering of the front (drilling holes) would for sure stick the rails into the track immediately.
The only fix is to lower the front axle vertically or roll it back and down to change the angle of attack.
Ok…so soften the front shocks – no…that won’t work as you get too much front sag and the rear is up in the air – thus you don’t get the real suspension “plant”.
I’m afraid to get the Polaris excellent weight transfer – your gonna have to install a Polaris suspension. -
I’m sure the same “design criteria” is in the late models sleds as slightly older ones. The suspensions do work well – but the geometry is such that the stock bolted suspension is not conducive in ski lift - in other words – the angles of suspension rails are always planting the skis in the snow – no matter what.
The skis will lift – as you get up in HP and some can come over backwards but it’s the result of the chassis rotating around the track – not weight transfer.
Yes – quite simple on the Polaris – you just make the front lower than the back – and skis come off the snow. It must be a liability thing – where Yamaha don’t want you to smash into any trees!
Even with transfer rods – the Yamaha front suspension will always be higher up in the chassis than the back. (NOTE: Adjusting aftermarket transfer rods too much will put huge amounts of slack in the track – during transfer.) When Yamaha first started this design – you could simply drill a couple more holes in the chassis – lower the suspension physically – problem solved. Today – or at least on mine – the track angle at the suspension is so acute – any chance of physically lowering of the front (drilling holes) would for sure stick the rails into the track immediately.
The only fix is to lower the front axle vertically or roll it back and down to change the angle of attack.
Ok…so soften the front shocks – no…that won’t work as you get too much front sag and the rear is up in the air – thus you don’t get the real suspension “plant”.
I’m afraid to get the Polaris excellent weight transfer – your gonna have to install a Polaris suspension. -
..SNAKEBIT..
VIP Member
??????? where are your front limit straps?
I would bet you need @ 3/4 to 1" bolt showing past the nut
dont need a poo suspension
I would bet you need @ 3/4 to 1" bolt showing past the nut
dont need a poo suspension
800
New member
well that transfer kit was designed for mountian sleds to get all the tranfer you couls possibly have in powder and dropp the suspension out, not really what you want for trail riding, getting back to your initial problem, its true that the Viper S doesn't transfer well but it will, never like a Polaris, Yamaha designed it to keep the skis on the ground, so you could turn. I think the real problem is you mentioned you're light. That of course make things worse. Making it transfer is adjusting it to do so. So if you want to see if it will, and you're a light guy, do this.
Set the FRA in the soft position, loosen the rear shock all the way up, run the transfer adjustments all the way up, tighten the front spring all the way, and run the limiters all the way out. Go run it see what it does. It may tranfer, but ride will go away, so then go back the other way to find a happy medium.
The ViperS has the weakest center shock spring they make (1.
, therefore it doesn't want to transfer as well as it won't lift the front end if you're trying to get some air, because the front of the suspension collapses too quick, on mine I put a stiffer spring in the front and everything got better (2.3). I also took the transfer adlustment nuts and milled the top off both of them giving me another 1/4" of adjustment up.
It got to where it would transfer, feel light in the front, and when you trying to get a little air off a rise, the skis will lift rather than come off nose first.
Set the FRA in the soft position, loosen the rear shock all the way up, run the transfer adjustments all the way up, tighten the front spring all the way, and run the limiters all the way out. Go run it see what it does. It may tranfer, but ride will go away, so then go back the other way to find a happy medium.
The ViperS has the weakest center shock spring they make (1.
, therefore it doesn't want to transfer as well as it won't lift the front end if you're trying to get some air, because the front of the suspension collapses too quick, on mine I put a stiffer spring in the front and everything got better (2.3). I also took the transfer adlustment nuts and milled the top off both of them giving me another 1/4" of adjustment up.It got to where it would transfer, feel light in the front, and when you trying to get a little air off a rise, the skis will lift rather than come off nose first.
V
vipethis
Guest
Hey guys!!!
You have got this thing down I see!! Yeah I will be putting the rods on and have made the adjustments noted. Right now the the front straps are showing less than a quater inch of thread so they are plenty loose. The real deal in this is to trim a 1/4 inch off that adjuster to get a bit more transfer and I think we will have it. The Viper has a TON of low end torque which is not tapped until you get some weight in that primary clutch and get a GOOD secondary helix and spring. With all that grunt traction becomes an issue, because of the Ripsaw track doesn't let these "long" studs (144)bite like the old 1" or 1.25" Predator tracks. Thus I get lot of track spin and thus wanting to get more weight transfer back on the track. I agree there is an amount of "fakeness" here----but there is nothing more disheartening for me--at least--than to have a rocket like this and the damn thing can't catch some ski air off the start!! Since it is RAINING here like the friggin Amazon, my testing will be late coming. I think that all the info you guys gave me is going to work. I realize that with these tall suspensions you have to lift a lot more "travel" to get these ski's up than the old 98 SRX I had. Appreciate all the tips and will see you out on the trails!!!!
You have got this thing down I see!! Yeah I will be putting the rods on and have made the adjustments noted. Right now the the front straps are showing less than a quater inch of thread so they are plenty loose. The real deal in this is to trim a 1/4 inch off that adjuster to get a bit more transfer and I think we will have it. The Viper has a TON of low end torque which is not tapped until you get some weight in that primary clutch and get a GOOD secondary helix and spring. With all that grunt traction becomes an issue, because of the Ripsaw track doesn't let these "long" studs (144)bite like the old 1" or 1.25" Predator tracks. Thus I get lot of track spin and thus wanting to get more weight transfer back on the track. I agree there is an amount of "fakeness" here----but there is nothing more disheartening for me--at least--than to have a rocket like this and the damn thing can't catch some ski air off the start!! Since it is RAINING here like the friggin Amazon, my testing will be late coming. I think that all the info you guys gave me is going to work. I realize that with these tall suspensions you have to lift a lot more "travel" to get these ski's up than the old 98 SRX I had. Appreciate all the tips and will see you out on the trails!!!!
800
New member
when you trim the nuts, take the side that contacts each other and take 1/8" off each