700
Member
Can someone tell me what angle an 8bv70 helix is? (Couldn't find that number in the tech pages.) and is it a big deal to take shims out of the primary with the clutch still in the machine? Where are the shims located and can you run with no shims if it puts the RPMs where you want them?
I know I probably need heavier weights, but I'd like to try the shims first. (I don't know what it's got for shims now.) It's engaging at 4100 and holding steady at 8800 now. It's a 98 SRX700. Thanks, 700
I know I probably need heavier weights, but I'd like to try the shims first. (I don't know what it's got for shims now.) It's engaging at 4100 and holding steady at 8800 now. It's a 98 SRX700. Thanks, 700
bluewho
Active member
shims behind the spring would be easy to remove but the ones behind the tower are not.
x2ryder
New member
That is a stock srx helix. it is a straight 47
700
Member
Thanks Guys!
The shims that would lower my RPM by removing, would be behind the spring wouldn't they?
The shims that would lower my RPM by removing, would be behind the spring wouldn't they?
700 said:
Thats for engagement RPM I think. Won't affect shift. Someone correct me if I'm wrong. The shims will be behind the spring(don't know which end). Take the cover off and they should be where thw spring sits in the clutch.
bluewho
Active member
if it is a stock setup there is no shims behind the spring sounds like you need more tip wieght or a new belt.
yamaholic22
Active member
what year srx are you running and what do you have in there for clutching? All stock? That engagement is good, get some weight in those arms to bring down the shift r's.
700
Member
O.K. Here's more info.
98 SRX700. Just got it this year, I don't know the history. Lots of studs in the stock track. Secondary has stock helix wrapped at 60 but there is NO paint mark on the spring
I haven't had the primary apart yet. I can see it has a G/S/G spring and 8dn00 weights.
It seems to back shift fine and never bogs, I'd just like to bring that MAX RPM down to the ideal which is what? For my riding, I wouldn't care if the engagement was down a little. Am I in danger of hurting the engine at 8800?
I just thought I could take it apart and see if it has any shims, take them out, and see what rivets and rollers it has at the same time.
I'm not racing it. I just want it to feel fast and get pretty good mileage cruising 60-70 for long stretches.
98 SRX700. Just got it this year, I don't know the history. Lots of studs in the stock track. Secondary has stock helix wrapped at 60 but there is NO paint mark on the spring
I haven't had the primary apart yet. I can see it has a G/S/G spring and 8dn00 weights. It seems to back shift fine and never bogs, I'd just like to bring that MAX RPM down to the ideal which is what? For my riding, I wouldn't care if the engagement was down a little. Am I in danger of hurting the engine at 8800?
I just thought I could take it apart and see if it has any shims, take them out, and see what rivets and rollers it has at the same time.
I'm not racing it. I just want it to feel fast and get pretty good mileage cruising 60-70 for long stretches.
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Millinocket Rocket
New member
think you want to be down around 8500 max rpms
98-99 srx runs around 83-8400rpm
If ya want to make it a bit more peppy for not much money buy a set of the newer 8dn-20 weights with 4.5 in both holes, a y/s/y spring or a w/w/w/ spring, and use a 51/43 helix, you can get away with your stock red spring or get a green secondary spring if you have alot of traction.
If ya want to make it a bit more peppy for not much money buy a set of the newer 8dn-20 weights with 4.5 in both holes, a y/s/y spring or a w/w/w/ spring, and use a 51/43 helix, you can get away with your stock red spring or get a green secondary spring if you have alot of traction.
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700
Member
That's what I was thinking.
I'll take it apart this weekend and try to figure out what rivets are in it and try taking out the shims if there are any. I'll report back next week. Thanks for the help guys. 700
I'll take it apart this weekend and try to figure out what rivets are in it and try taking out the shims if there are any. I'll report back next week. Thanks for the help guys. 700
700
Member
New info and Recap
98 SRX 700
Track: heavily studded stock
gearing: unknown
belt: Gates Extreme
Compression: 130-132
jets: unknown
powervalves: cleaned but didn't check adjustment
plugs: new BR10ECS
Primary Spring: G/S/G no shims
Weights: 8dn00
Rivets: Aluminum outer See pictures
NO inner
rollers: 15.6mm
Secondary Spring: unknown (no paint mark)
Helix: straight 47 set at 60 degrees
Engagement rpm: 4100-4200
Max rpm : 8800-8900
My specs: 6'/180lbs
Riding style: Mostly solo riding on and off groomed trails. I like to pin it for the rush and ride 30 miles to work between 50-70 mph. I never need to go over 100.
The sled doesn't feel extremely fast but it does run good and back shifts fine. It's getting more fun with each thing I do. Any specific suggestions on how to get the rpms down and make this thing scream Thanks, 700
98 SRX 700
Track: heavily studded stock
gearing: unknown
belt: Gates Extreme
Compression: 130-132
jets: unknown
powervalves: cleaned but didn't check adjustment
plugs: new BR10ECS
Primary Spring: G/S/G no shims
Weights: 8dn00
Rivets: Aluminum outer See pictures
NO inner
rollers: 15.6mm
Secondary Spring: unknown (no paint mark)
Helix: straight 47 set at 60 degrees
Engagement rpm: 4100-4200
Max rpm : 8800-8900
My specs: 6'/180lbs
Riding style: Mostly solo riding on and off groomed trails. I like to pin it for the rush and ride 30 miles to work between 50-70 mph. I never need to go over 100.
The sled doesn't feel extremely fast but it does run good and back shifts fine. It's getting more fun with each thing I do. Any specific suggestions on how to get the rpms down and make this thing scream
Thanks, 700Attachments
700,
get a set of 8DN-20 weights. those weights you have in it right now are good for long runs but not as aggressive as the 20's.. just add a few shims to the stock primary and youl be fine. i am also running the 51/43 yamaha stock RX-1 helix. you will like it
get a set of 8DN-20 weights. those weights you have in it right now are good for long runs but not as aggressive as the 20's.. just add a few shims to the stock primary and youl be fine. i am also running the 51/43 yamaha stock RX-1 helix. you will like it
bluewho
Active member
buy some paks of rivots from your dealor try 4.5 in both holes if it is below 8400 try a lighter wieght rivot in your inner hole and she should be close.
yamaholic22
Active member
add weight to the tips to get the top end rpms down.
700
Member
Been Reading!
Thanks for the input guys. After a lot of reading old threads today, I think I will just bite the bullet and collect the parts to do the setup mrviper describes (or prescribes)
I found a helix in the classified desribed as:"Kinetic 49/42 helix, recut stock Yamaha helix". The price is right if it's still available. Is this worth my time or a waste of money? I'm also open to anyone that has these parts for sale:
three 8dn-20 weights
six 4.5 rivets
Y/S/Y long primary spring
Green secondary spring
51/43 helix
Also, what other models used the same primary clutch? My sheaves are grooved pretty bad at the bottom and I'd like to find some better ones.
Thanks again, Aaron 700
Thanks for the input guys. After a lot of reading old threads today, I think I will just bite the bullet and collect the parts to do the setup mrviper describes (or prescribes)
I found a helix in the classified desribed as:"Kinetic 49/42 helix, recut stock Yamaha helix". The price is right if it's still available. Is this worth my time or a waste of money? I'm also open to anyone that has these parts for sale:three 8dn-20 weights
six 4.5 rivets
Y/S/Y long primary spring
Green secondary spring
51/43 helix
Also, what other models used the same primary clutch? My sheaves are grooved pretty bad at the bottom and I'd like to find some better ones.
Thanks again, Aaron 700
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