mbviperboy
New member
Buying some used bender pipes, with cluthch kit, heat exchanger, and head gasket, need info on what i should be using for new jets. Riding in the praries so elevation is not an issue. Has anyone had any bad experiences with these pipes that i should bee looking for?
BigMac
New member
mbviperboy said:
You will also need the hood shim, since the clearance isn't sufficient to close the hood without the hood resting on the pipes. Note also that you need a bracket (supplied by Bender) to relocate the power valve servo and allow rerouting of the power valve cables. Also, make sure you have some 500-degree insulation foil and wrap the power valve cables and hood area. Get some high-temp silicone exhaust sealant. The orange stuff you buy at the hardware store is just as good and a lot cheaper than Yamabond. Installing the pipes is kind of a pain, but a lot easier with two people.
While you have the pipes off, take the opportunity to clean and adjust your power valves, and consider checking clutch alignment and adjusting if necessary. Those things are impossible to do with the pipes on, and taking them out/putting them back on is enough of a pain that you won't want to do it very often.
Jet recommendations are on Bender's website, but you need 165x3 or 167.5x3 main jets and 55 or 52.5 PJs. Personally, I didn't modify the airbox as they recommend. Clutching - I just used the kit Bender recommends.
There's a good walk-through of the installation at Off-Road.com
My only bad experience in 3500 miles was a couple of damaged powervalve cables, one from heat (mag side) and the other from rubbing (center). Performance improvement is impressive - it will spank any F7 you happen to run across.
viper28
New member
- Joined
- Jan 28, 2006
- Messages
- 52
Is your air real dry of is it kind of moist (moist=close to the sea), if your not close to water I would suggest changing your jets 100%, I had a problem with jets lately when I bought pipes and jets for my viper. The guy sent me jets that were for an air that is more dry since he lived in Idaho and I kept the stock jets because where I live the air is moist so we can get away with not changing the jets, its hard to explain on the net.
BigMac
New member
viper28 said:
I don't know about this moist air - dry air business...that doesn't make sense to me, but it would be extremely unwise to use stock main and pilot jets after Bender triple-piping a Viper no matter where the guys lives.
trick569
New member
Jets
You cannot run stock jets I run 167.5 and 55
You cannot run stock jets I run 167.5 and 55
viper28
New member
- Joined
- Jan 28, 2006
- Messages
- 52
It's hard to explain what I'm saying on the net, I'm no expert at the subject, but Tom Hartman told me if the air is dryer change the jets, but the air is is ''moist'' according to him and he said we can get away with keeping the stock jets into her, I don't understand completely what he's saying myself, but I haven't had any problems with her, so he must be right.
viper28
New member
- Joined
- Jan 28, 2006
- Messages
- 52
But I don't have bender pipes, there SLP triple pipes.
sxviper32
New member
viper28 said:
moist really isn't what your looking for. how "thin" the air is, is more along the lines. the higher up in elevation you go, the thinnner (less oxygen in the atmosphere) the air becomes, and vice versa as you go down in elevation. from what i've read, when you pipe a viper you most definetely have to go up in sizes. do some more research on it before running it, otherwise you'll pay for it all in the end...
I ran 165 across the board with 52.5 pilots , I burned down once 2or3 years ago with 162.5 across the board, but I don't believe it was because of the jetting, 38 degrees out and running on the bay , I believe the motor was heat saturated and bad fuel was the culpret. Thats when I install the 165s and egts, Just for safety. With the larger jets it definatly run richer on the bottom , but you can hold wot for longer before you start reading 1200-1300 degrees, This was with bender pipes . I beat my brothers well running srx by 2 to3 lengths, I'm 230ish he's 170ish, I also live near rochester ny.
Yama49601
New member
I know this is an old post but Bender tried selling me 55 pilots when I got my pipes for an otherwise stock motor and I couldn't even start it without it fouling plugs instantly. Even 52.5's were too much and I had to go to 50's. I've always wondered if all the water around here had something to do with it.
This is not in a Viper though it's a redhead triple 700. But I'd still like to know why it wouldn't run with the 52.5's even. I always kept the 150 mains in it too but I think I'm gonna try some 148.8's or maybe even some 147.5's.
This is not in a Viper though it's a redhead triple 700. But I'd still like to know why it wouldn't run with the 52.5's even. I always kept the 150 mains in it too but I think I'm gonna try some 148.8's or maybe even some 147.5's.
Last edited:
mbviperboy said:
I'm not far from you, also in the praries. I'm running 55 pilots, 170 mains, opticool gasket with benders head mod. The plugs are a bit on the light side. Don't run any leaner than 55 and 170 no matter what bender tells you. You have to get the head mod or you'll have problems with the dcs light and detonation.
that looks good to me, the things I cant see from the pics are:
1.) on the center elctrode core itself, is it silver around the outside edge and darker to black in the center?
2.) is there a dark ring about halfway down the ceramic cone inside the plug?
3.) on the ground strap is it burnd beyond the curve of the strap?
1.) on the center elctrode core itself, is it silver around the outside edge and darker to black in the center?
2.) is there a dark ring about halfway down the ceramic cone inside the plug?
3.) on the ground strap is it burnd beyond the curve of the strap?
mrviper700 said:
It is silver around the outside edge of the electrode and black in the center.
There is a dark ring about half way around the ceramic cone from top to bottom. The other half is pale white.
The ground strap is burned to the end of the strap.
go out and RIP it UP!! your good to go and you have a slight cushion there for a temp drop yet, its when the electrode core is silver across the whole bottom means your spot on for that exact temp, drop 10 degrees and you could be walking back to the truck...LOL!
mrviper700 said:
Thanks. I also checked piston wash with my fiber optic snake and it looks good. I just had it out in these -30 temps. It really likes the cold, but i can't take it lol. I'll wait for a nicer day to be on the safe side.