Just a little crinkel

Bischof

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May 2, 2003
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Holly, MI
In another thread we were talking about repairing trailing arms.
I bent my right one last year and did a quick repair but didn't replace it. I've been watching for deals and as luck would have it, just last week I bought a set of light weight t-arms I was going to install after our trip to the UP last wekend. Well during the trip I hit a rock and did a number on the right side. The t-arm bent further back toward the rider and damaged the tunnel, mounting bracket, foot rest and the t-arm.

What do you think fellas, is the tunnel (and the season) salvageable? I think I'll pull and replace the t-arm, mount, foot rest and try to flatten the tunnel. Not quite sure how I'll flatten it yet, I'm thinking two steel plates and a big clamp. I've found a used tunnel in perfect condition locally for $150 but if I need to replace that it will be a big job because of in addition the usuall work I will need to re install the M-10 skid.I'll either wait for warm weather to do it or say #$%&* it and part out the sled.

So what are your opinions? Should it stay or should it go? Anyone have any ideas on the best way to get the tunnel back in shape?

Thanks, Greg
 

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See if you woudn't have fixed it before with that iron it probly would have
bent farther up by the ski and not f*cked up your tunnle.

But that looks like you can fix it,,you know anybody with a body shop,,you
can hammer and dolly that out might take some time but could be done.

Ive fixed worse than that on sheet metal before,,alum. should be a brezz.
 
I've seen them not quite that bad fixed fairly easy with a BFH. Pull the foot rest and t-arm mount out, wack the outside rail back close to where it needs to be, then work the middle with a smaller hammer and dolly. It won't be perfect but close enough. Watch for stress cracks as you go and if any develope drill the end of it and get it welded. If the t-arm mount is bent bad, replace it, although they usually stand up ok..... the aluminum is much softer. Also, be careful of the running board cooler. I've seen them bend like that with new, unmodified t-arms too so don't be too hard on yourself.
 
Here is one that my buddy did last season....a drift that was really a large rock.
 

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I agree Hammer and Dolly it if you can. Even if you have to purchase the hammer and Dolly it is worth the time saved from replacing the tunnel.
 
im with ski. ben there done that on 2 sleds. twice on my 500 just dint fix it the last time. i have a set of shear foot running board grips id sell off the 500 real cheep. the left side has a slight bow from what the same thing u did but its still on the sled i bet it would come fight out one i poped it off. let me know if ur interested in them
 
happened to me last year. not quite as bad but as long as it is not torn that looks fixable. If you are unsure find a buddy in the autobody racket and he'll dolly that out in a jiff.
 
Thanks for the encouraging words!
I'm feeling a little better about it. I'm 99% sure the mounting bracket will need replacing and I thought a new footrest would help me get the alignment correct. I think that having new parts both over and under the tunnel will increase strength as well. I hate to admit it but I had to do a search to see what a dolly was.
Anyway looks like I'll be spending a little time in the garage this week, not that there's anything wrong with that.
Thanks again.
Greg
 
Daman I will.
One of my pet peves is when someone asks for help and gets a bunch of advice (sometimes conflicting) and we never hear what the fix was.
Hopefully by the end of the week I'll post a photo doing a victory lap!
TTFN
 
Bischof said:
Daman I will.
One of my pet peves is when someone asks for help and gets a bunch of advice (sometimes conflicting) and we never hear what the fix was.

Great minds think alike....i hate that too,,bugs the shit out of me...lol
 
Just for Daman

Here are a couple of quick shots of the repaired sled.
I didn't work too hard to get the floorboard cosmetically perfect but the new bracket went in without issues.
Pretty easy job really. Just removed a few rivets from the bottom of the side panel for access. Removed the side heat exchanger protector. Removed the bad bracket. Hammered with gusto. Then re-riveted everything. Notice the difference between the old bracket and the new. They beefed up the bracket in later years with additional places for rivets.
Check out the t-arms too. Crome molly light weight arms. Got them off of e-bay brand new with shipping $140 total. Only issue I had was they gave me heim joints with a 1/2" hole in the bearing instead of 12mm. Had to get new heim joints for them.
 

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Greg I have the trailing arm mount and the foot well. They are on the left side right. Maxdlx
 
Thanks Paul,
I messed up the right side. I already got the new one installed so I don't need anything now.
What a mess though. I ordered the part from the local dealer and it took almost a week to get it. Pick up the part and come home only to find they gave me the left side bracke instead of the right! Back at the dealer we find that he in fact ordered the correct part but the bracket package was mis-labeled. Dumb luck. Finally the correct part comes in. 2 weeks of waiting for a part to do a 4 or 5 hour job which included the full front end adjustment.
Rant over, I feel better now
 


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