br9es or br9ecs 600 srx

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snowjoe

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Sep 23, 2003
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i have a 99 srx 600 just want to know what other plugs i can run, just not having good luck with the ecs. thanks
 

I switched from the regular NGK BR9ES to the NGK Iridduim. Put on over 1000 kms this winter with no problems. Supposed to be better for the sled as well. Better fuel economy, easyier starting etc. They cost about 3 times as much, but I figure it's worth it.
 
As posted before:

I just had a long talk with one of the engineers (Jeff) at NGK about the BR9ECS vs BR9ES plugs. He told me that the difference is that the BR9ECS plug has a low angle ground electrode. (that's it...that's all...no special metals, no different depth, not hotter, not colder etc etc)
That being said, that causes a difference in the flame front in the combustion chamber. The ECS plug with the low angle ground electrode causes a more controlled and equal flame extension into the chamber where the ES plug causes a 3/4 circle front (blocked by the electrode).
In some engines this makes a difference in detonation control at higher speeds and loads. He concluded that the engine manufactor must have experienced some problems under testing and recommended the ECS plug to provide the best performance and reliability.
He would not recommend using the ES plug instead of the ECS plug due to the likelihood of detonation problems under high loads &/or rpm, but said that the ES plug might work just fine in some engines until conditions in the combustion chamber got hotter and more likely to start detonation.

I've posted some links on my site that have the plug numbering and tech documents from NGK that are available.

http://www.cabler.com/corey/sled.html

Hope that helps resolve this question that seems to pop up every winter.
Corey
ps- a plug at $12.00 is far cheaper than an engine that has detonated while racing your buddies
 
I've run the ES plugs in my 99MM600 with over 4K on it while the book calls for the ECS plugs. I haven't had any problems.
 
Its a known problem that br9es can cost you an engine. If its worth it to you, then run them.

BTW...the book for your MM doesnt recommend br9ecs, better read it again.
 
thanks guys, i just have so many problems with fouling plugs. if i dont start it just right its time for new plugs, i can run it all day no problem but if it sits over night im praying to the yamaha god and hope it starts. i bring it in every year for tune ups, i use yamalube, reeds and clutch kit. other then that its stock
 
snowjoe said:
thanks guys, i just have so many problems with fouling plugs. if i dont start it just right its time for new plugs, i can run it all day no problem but if it sits over night im praying to the yamaha god and hope it starts. i bring it in every year for tune ups, i use yamalube, reeds and clutch kit. other then that its stock
Click to expand...

what is your starting procedure?
 
I had a similar problem and would go though more than a box of plugs in a season ($12 plugs aren't afordable then). I switched to champion powersports plugs and the fouling went down to a managable level.

while doing a valve cleaning (they were clean didn't need it) I noticed the 2 outer pistons were burned at the exhaust ports. it ran fine, but that was what was causing the excessive fouling and hard starting.
 
i was fouling plugs quite frequently found out changing the way i start it helped. full choke until it will stay running and half then half choke till it will stay running at no choke. blip the choke to half for a sec to keep it running but then back to no choke. do not touch the throttle until the coolers have heated up it check the one's under the running boards. havent fouled a plug since. man this thing pulls hard when cold it was 0 degrees yesterday morning and felt like i was trying to pull over a locomative. but again no fouled plugs.
 
For the 99 models, maybe it's just the ones with the smart carbs, the owner's manual calls for the ECS in the VX600 and MM600, the shop manual does not differentiate between any of the models and lists the ES's for everything. On to the hard starting issue, mine used to start really hard too but what seemed to help, in addition to following the procedures mentioned above, was to keep the carbs really clean. Every year I clean them really good and tune them up and it starts easy now. If it's pulling over hard it could be from not changing your chain case oil, try synthetic oil next time, every little bit helps.
 
Some guys put regular automotive gear oil in there and even with synthetic auto gear oil that stuff is really thick and stiff when it gets cold. When you are pulling the engine over the chain case gears are turning too in that sludge causing drag and making it harder to pull over. Snowmobile specific chaincase oil stays a lot thinner in the cold and thus will cause less drag.
 
If you run your machine in warm temperatures, it will be hard on plugs. A good thing to do is top off your oil and your gas, once you have to fill up measure the amount of oil needed to top off. This will indicated your gas to oil ratio.

I usually always burn the first new set of plugs on my sled due to some left over fuel in my tanks, but once I fill with fresh gas and a new set of plugs I'm good for the season. That's about 4000 Kms on the plugs!
 
SRX Starting

I full choke the SRX until it starts then INSTANTLY switch to half choke. If it starts to stumble I full choke it for a second then half. No plug fouling. I think that leaving it on full choke will foul plugs a lot more often than not.

I run the ES plugs and have had zero problems
 
thanks bought this sled new in 1999 and im starting to loose faith in her but i will try all these things before i send her down the road, and im going try br9es wish me luck
 
snow joe, what are your complaints with your srx 600. If you speak up we can offer suggestions. Your sled is a great one when set up properly.
 
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