Diceman
New member
I looked in the manual and the measurement says 20-30 mm or 1.18 inches for track deflection for my 1998 v-max 700. A friend says you take a fish scale and pull the track down ( manual says 22 lbs) and it should read the above measurements. Where on the track do you put the scale on the middle of the track or closer to the front. I assume it is better to have the track alittle looser than to tight???He also said to have the machine on it's side when I do this. I put on new sliders and they seem to be wearing down quick. I have rode some icy trails and lakes lately. Alittle road running. Can sliders wear very very quickly with this type of driving???Any help would be great.Diceman
daman
New member
**LOOK HERE**
Right in the middle of the slid railis where you measure ,,hook through track window.
don't put it on it's side,,just lift the back up high enough
I run mine 22lbs at an 1 1/2",,thats a little on the loose side...
i have no hyfax wear.
Right in the middle of the slid railis where you measure ,,hook through track window.
don't put it on it's side,,just lift the back up high enough
I run mine 22lbs at an 1 1/2",,thats a little on the loose side...
i have no hyfax wear.
Last edited:
Diceman
New member
daman said:
When I measure it do I measure from the bottom of the runners to the bottom of the track facing the ground or the top part of the track facing the runners??? Thanks Diceman
daman
New member
Diceman said:
Did you click on my "look here" link??????
Diceman
New member
daman said:
Oopps, Thanks.... You are the man. My question about the sliders, can they wear quick on harder surfaces?? Guys say that road running, icy trails, etc can cause runners to wear quickly, how quick is quickly?? Also is a looser track better than a tight track?? What are the potential problems with both??? I am new to this snowmobile stuff. Thanks Daman Diceman
Diceman said:
They will wear quicker on harder surfaces. If you do a search on 'slider wear' there is about a month of reading. Generally, the sliders will wear rapidly to a point and then almost stop. If you CAN'T fit a 10mm wrench over the edge of the slider, its still ok. There's alot more to add but do a search first and come back with questions.
daman
New member
Diceman said:
Do like crew chief said,,
but yea you DO NOT want to run hard pack at high speed more than a mile
or your asking for a hyfax melt down,,been there done that..
Diceman
New member
I did the search on sliders, very helpful. I read some posts and they mentioned about ratcheting ( something like run the track with no ratcheting )what does this mean?? Also I my track is picked and some guys say on some posts that the track should droop 1 1/2 inches when it is jacked up. Is this correct? Very confussing for a newbie. Diceman
daman
New member
Diceman said:
OK,,,,Umm......racheting is when your track is too loose and it "skipps"
on the drive wheels up front when you floor it,,,thats why you need to get the track deflection (tightness)just right.
use the 22lbs at 1 1/2" or 1 3/4" and it will be damn close to perfect,
some of the other regulars do it different but i like specs......
Measure that at the same spot on each side of the track(each rail)
Yamahammer485
Member
Diceman said:
Re-read that thing as my explanation might not be the clearest, but the gap you are measuring is from the bottom of the slider to the top of the track clip. Basically meaning the distance between the bottom of the slider to the first thing you come in contact with with your mesuring tape, which will be the top of the track clip.
I used to use a 22 pound bag of sand, but then I found some freinds to pull the track down while I measure
daman
New member
daman said:
click my link^^^^^^!!!!!!!!
Ratcheting generally happens when the track is too loose. The drive axle skips over a couple of drive lugs on the track(little rubber bumps on the inside). Alot of guys, including myself, will run the track loose, say Yamaha's spec WITHOUT the weight, then if it rachets when we get on it or in the powder, we tighten the track a little, if it does it again, a little more(say half a turn on each adjuster, each time) untill it doesn't ratchet. I haven't used a weight to set my track in three years. This is all for a non-studded track.
With studs, you need to run the track tighter than without. I haven't set one up yet but someone else here might have a good starting point for you.
If your track ratchets once during a ride, don't panic. If you don't want to tighten it on the trail, driving the sled without hammering the throttle will be fine untill you get back to base. You can still go fast, just not accellerate as fast. It really isn't to hard to adjust on the trail though, all the tools are in the kit(assuming your kit is complete).
And believe me, You'l KNOW when it ratchets, just by the sound/feel of the sled.
Somebody add the stuff I forgot.
EDIT: apparently my two finger typing needs some NOS
With studs, you need to run the track tighter than without. I haven't set one up yet but someone else here might have a good starting point for you.
If your track ratchets once during a ride, don't panic. If you don't want to tighten it on the trail, driving the sled without hammering the throttle will be fine untill you get back to base. You can still go fast, just not accellerate as fast. It really isn't to hard to adjust on the trail though, all the tools are in the kit(assuming your kit is complete).
And believe me, You'l KNOW when it ratchets, just by the sound/feel of the sled.
Somebody add the stuff I forgot.
EDIT: apparently my two finger typing needs some NOS
PZ 1
Member
- Joined
- Mar 12, 2005
- Messages
- 987
Some Yamaha publications clearly show a cord strung through a track window on each side so that the scale pulls down on both sides of the track when checking tension. I know that there is some dissention about this, but that is the way I do it. I have not had any track ratcheting when it was set like this.
Diceman
New member
Well guys, while trying I quess this weekend to pull an ice hut out onto a lake I really burned up the sliders. When I went to try and measure the deflection on the track, I noticed that some of the sliders had actually melted onto the track clips, holy crap!!! Lots of ice, little snow. My delection measurement is from .98 to 1.18. When I set this measurement the track seems really tight. Barely hangs down when it is on the stand, is that the way it should be? I am sure when I bought the sled the track hung down farther but can't really remember . Also when you try to center the track, if you are standing at the back of the sled and say the track needs to go to the left, is it the left side that you adjust or the right side. Thanks boys!!! Diceman
PZ 1
Member
- Joined
- Mar 12, 2005
- Messages
- 987
The track will move away from the side you tighten. Tighten the left to move it to the right. If you are ever unsure, just try it, you will see what happens. On ice, your slides may have melted no matter how loose the track was. As far as how tight the track is, as in my previous post, I believe that both sides of the track should be tensioned when checking tightness. This will result in a looser setting. I do not know for sure if this is correct, the manuals are vague on this as is common with Yamaha's publications. And getting information out of Yamaha is difficult. Also, anyone you ask at Yamaha is just going to tell you what they think. You won't know if it is correct.