SNOWRULES
New member
have a 98 srx with heel clicker kit and 48/40 advant edge in the secondary with a green secondary spring set at 70 degree twist. was curious to see how far my clutches were shifting so i put a black permanent marker mark on the primary and found that i still have 3/4 of an inch to an inch of black mark still left is this normal or should the belt be coming up even higher my rpms are dialed in perfect holeshot is 8100 then climbs to 8400 and stays there bang on. is my secondary set too tight maybe and holding the belt from dropping down in the secondary any farther. and would this affect top speed at all i mean if the clutch isn't fully shifting out. any help would be great guys.
oh heel clicker are set at 4.6 in the shoulder middle hole empty and 3.3 in the tip.
oh heel clicker are set at 4.6 in the shoulder middle hole empty and 3.3 in the tip.
SNOWRULES
New member
ttttt
dont think its your green spring at 70 degrees thats the problem, i run my green at 70 or 80 and it pulls like it should, i think there about 1 cm or so left when i mark my clutch.. dont think you can pull it all the way to the top.. maybe its your hc..?
**sj**
Life Member
two ideas...add more weight to the tip even though the rpms are where you want them to be....(curtesy of mr.viper700's ideas)
any other mods done to the primary>? I've had the same problem ...and have narrowed it down to a speed sheave with the heelclickers problem..or
what about weight interference with the spider?
any other mods done to the primary>? I've had the same problem ...and have narrowed it down to a speed sheave with the heelclickers problem..or
what about weight interference with the spider?
Is the sled doing acceptable topend speed? What kind of distance is this? Is the stock gearing in the sled?
Just because the mark is left on the clutch means nothing!!!!, a sled geared too tall will do this and by the way, the 98 srx was the tallest gearing of them, 23/37. if you dont run the sled on a long enuff distance for the gearing and topspeed its set up for the belt wont reach the top either. Another thing is not enuff tip weight, keep adding tipweight till you pull it off the top end rpm.
A sled kept closer to a 1:1 ratio will be faster in a given distance then a sled in overdrive, this is because the belt is bent the same radius in both the primary and secondary clutch's, bending it tighter by going into overdrive simply creates heat and parasatic frictional loss, not to mention it has less area in which to hang onto the belt. Want to see this in front of your own eyes?? Simply go out and look at your sled sitting there, look at the primary clutch, how much of the belt is touching the front clutch, and how much of the belt is touching the rear clutch? take a white piece of chalk or paint marker and mark the area at the front of the clutch, then the rear, take off the belt and see how area is not being touched by the sheaves.
When your in overdrive, belt all the way up in front and bottom of rear its basicly the same scenario as you just looked at only reversed, and actually is worse because the rear cutch is larger then your front and even less area is being used on the belt, but it gives you an idea what I am trying to explain to you. With keeping your belt closer to the same radius(1:1 shift ratio) in both clutch's you will hang onto the belt alot better , your touching more belt to sheave area simply and it is a much more efficent part of the shift curve to be in.
its not worrying about how far the belt goes up in the clutch, its what is the best performing set up for YOUR sled thats important.
Just because the mark is left on the clutch means nothing!!!!, a sled geared too tall will do this and by the way, the 98 srx was the tallest gearing of them, 23/37. if you dont run the sled on a long enuff distance for the gearing and topspeed its set up for the belt wont reach the top either. Another thing is not enuff tip weight, keep adding tipweight till you pull it off the top end rpm.
A sled kept closer to a 1:1 ratio will be faster in a given distance then a sled in overdrive, this is because the belt is bent the same radius in both the primary and secondary clutch's, bending it tighter by going into overdrive simply creates heat and parasatic frictional loss, not to mention it has less area in which to hang onto the belt. Want to see this in front of your own eyes?? Simply go out and look at your sled sitting there, look at the primary clutch, how much of the belt is touching the front clutch, and how much of the belt is touching the rear clutch? take a white piece of chalk or paint marker and mark the area at the front of the clutch, then the rear, take off the belt and see how area is not being touched by the sheaves.
When your in overdrive, belt all the way up in front and bottom of rear its basicly the same scenario as you just looked at only reversed, and actually is worse because the rear cutch is larger then your front and even less area is being used on the belt, but it gives you an idea what I am trying to explain to you. With keeping your belt closer to the same radius(1:1 shift ratio) in both clutch's you will hang onto the belt alot better , your touching more belt to sheave area simply and it is a much more efficent part of the shift curve to be in.
its not worrying about how far the belt goes up in the clutch, its what is the best performing set up for YOUR sled thats important.
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SNOWRULES
New member
mrviper700 my best top speed so far was 118 mph on gps over a distance of about 2500 feet. sled has stock gearing. i have tried adding a bit more tip weight but i lose my proper rpms. adding one gram brings me down to about 8100. the sled works amazing right now pulls like a freight train and i think i have a pretty respectable top end. so i guess i shouldn't worry just wasn't sure how far the belt should be coming up but your explanation put my mind at ease. when it comes to tuning the heel clickers do you know if it's possible to remove shoulder weight and add the equivalent to the tip? this would be in order to keep the total weight the same but increase the top end performance because you're putting it in the tip. would this give the desired result? any other tips you have that you think would work with my setup would be great mrviper.
118mph on gps is very respectable for a srx700 trail sled. I would leave it alone, thats nothing to be ashamed of.
no, moving the weight from the heel to the tip wont work, as once the weight gets past a pont in its travel the heel weight does not work against the rest of the weight or it becomes neutral as its on the other side of the roller/pin/center of force.
in absolute perfect conditions, like a light snow dusting on a smooth lake, by moving the secondary twist to 60, it will go faster flat out up top, you will lose backshift and some rpm in trail riding the looser you go however. you have to tune the backshift to your sled with you on it, its not always the same, sometimes you need more twist to stay correct, like wet, heavy snow will load the clutch's more and require more spring(maybe 80-90).
if you need more speed up top, start looking at parasatic drag, like oversize wheels in skidframe, 5.350 polaris idlers for all 6 wheels in skidframe, and 7.5" rear wheels from a 79 srx440,low snow wheels at the curve in skid, lighter track with less studs, etc, these make a big differance, your hyfax wont drag the clips anymore and it will coast much, much more freely, your clutching sounds good to me, work on the chassis some.
no, moving the weight from the heel to the tip wont work, as once the weight gets past a pont in its travel the heel weight does not work against the rest of the weight or it becomes neutral as its on the other side of the roller/pin/center of force.
in absolute perfect conditions, like a light snow dusting on a smooth lake, by moving the secondary twist to 60, it will go faster flat out up top, you will lose backshift and some rpm in trail riding the looser you go however. you have to tune the backshift to your sled with you on it, its not always the same, sometimes you need more twist to stay correct, like wet, heavy snow will load the clutch's more and require more spring(maybe 80-90).
if you need more speed up top, start looking at parasatic drag, like oversize wheels in skidframe, 5.350 polaris idlers for all 6 wheels in skidframe, and 7.5" rear wheels from a 79 srx440,low snow wheels at the curve in skid, lighter track with less studs, etc, these make a big differance, your hyfax wont drag the clips anymore and it will coast much, much more freely, your clutching sounds good to me, work on the chassis some.
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SNOWRULES
New member
right on. thanks for the advice mrviper it helps alot. i may try to find some really light washers to add to the tip and see if that helps my top end any without dropping my rpms too low. any other mods that you know of that will help me squeak any more out of this motor? i know the F7 is kinda the measuring stick for the SRX i havn't lost to one yet but had a few close ones any tips for running against them. also am i right did i hear that you do trail porting for my motor and if so what kind of gains could i expect and how much do you charge etc. ?