Motor Mount

A

aoakwood

New member
Joined
Feb 11, 2004
Messages
25
Location
Millington, MI
02 viper has a broken motor mount on clutch side. It looks like the engine stud is broken off inside where it screws into the motor. Is this possible and likely? Is it a stud that screws into the engine, and then a nut to fasten to the mount? Or is it a bolt that just screws into the motor. I may sound a little elementary, but I have NEVER had to tear this sled down for anything other than service bulletins that I am aware of. If this is what it looks like, I will have to get motor loose enough to tilt up so I can get easyout tapped and then replace. ANY SUGGESTIONS?
 

yup its a snapped bolt...that sucks.....not sure but u may have enough room to work an easy out in there if u remove that motor mount out.....its the front one right?
 
If it is sheared flush with the motor, weld a nut onto the end and use a wrench to unscrew it. If it is locktighted in, the heat from welding will loosen it up like nothing.
 
its a bolt, it has patch lok on it so if it was never out it will be a pain, if you don't have electric start replace that bracket with the SRX one which uses all 3 bolts.
 
And after you replace the motor mount, install an engine tensioner. I kept breaking the clutch side front mount until somone here on the site suggested it. Put the solid Yamaha tensioner on at 2500 miles. 11,100 on the ticker now and no more broken mounts. This also allows alignment to be done PROPERLY! I align turbines, pumps and gearboxes for a living. NEVER offset align a piece of equipment in the hopes that it will pull itself into alignment. The only drawback is some slight vibration in the bars, but not enough to bother me. As you can see by my avatar I LOVE to jump. This really stressed the motor mounts LOL! Have had zero problems since installing the tensioner. Best of luck repairing your sled.

Dave :yam:
 
My stud is broken also....again. Last time I was able to weld a nut on, but this time it is broken off too deep. Will I be able to tilt the engine enough to drill it out with out damaging anything? Just take off the front mounts? Maybe the airbox?
 
Make sure you get the right access to the broken bolt so you can center punch it and drill it in the middle of the bolt. If the drill "walks off" and starts drilling into the mount, you will make more trouble for yourself. I bought a set of left hand drill bits for just this situation. Very often as soon as I drill a small amount into the broken bolt, the drill grabs the bolt and spins it out for me.

Jim
 
Umm. Guess I need to pull it all out now, and haul it to the machine shop. I broke the easy out off in there too now. #$%&* I had a propane torch and heated it up pretty good, but maybe not enough. Or was a cheap easy out, someday I will learn not to buy cheap tools. I am thinking of getting this drilled out and install a bigger bolt in there, seems like there is enough metal there for that. What do you think about that? I also got my torque limiter in the mail ready for install.
 
I have had this happen twice now, what a pain in the but. Luckily I was able to spin the brocken bolt out by hand. There is not much room for tools in there but I have found a ratchet wrench to work the best. The last time I decided to upgrade to the SRX motor mount and also the torqure arm so I doubt I will have any more issues. I also went to the local Fastenal and ordered the metric version of grade 8 bolts. I then used a washer as both times for me the bolt broke right at the head and I suspect that is the weekest point. I figured the washed would move the weight the bolt is holding a little further down the threads.
 
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