Made up Some transfer rods :)

vmax-sx

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Joined
Dec 2, 2005
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Age
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Location
Northern Ont.
Hey guys so me and my father finally decided to fab up some transfer rods from the stockers for the sx. Took about 1hr but well worth it. :2strokes:

Here's a couple pictures from back in the feild aftarwards!
 

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What kind of track are you running? I always hear people saying that transfer rods are the best things, but do they really make that big of a difference?
 
Huge difference this is the stock track with 96 trail studs without the mod it would not transfer at all rather it would sit and spin all day now with them it pulls hard! ;)!
 
Just keep in mind. If you are transfering too much, make sure the bolts are cut off on your arm. They will hit your rails.

I have transfer straps and I can dial in my Rx1 to stand on in if I want. Just make sure you have your track tight and find tune your front limiter straps.

Broke two sets of front limiter straps dialing mine in. :o|
 
Ya We've been doing some adjustment with the limiter straps to try and bring the skis down a little more. We might also have to add one or half a stock stopper.(small plastic piece?) but here are a couple closer pictures As you can see we simply took off the stock stopper plate and welded one on further up we also took a quarter inch of the end so that the bolt would not bottom out. And yes it is the long travel ;)!
 

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Looks great...I have a few questions I have a sx 600 and I bought long travel shocks for it....could you help me figure it out what's all I need.....and I definitly want to make her do willies....Thanks
 
wow that is WAY too much gap. Only a matter of time before that W-arm is toast.
 
Hey ya theres not that much gap in it right now the plastic spacers(1 and a half) were put in just after the piks were taken!

P.S by the way if left how it was why and how would the w arm go? im not very familiar with this? and with the one and a half spacers in it will it still be a problem?
 
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By changing that gap you are essentially changing the rear to front coupling of the suspenion (decreasing it by making the gap bigger). This allows the rear arm to move independently of the front arm for a longer duration of the total travel of the arm. However, since the front arm is also allowed to move independently without the assistance of the rear arm, it is more susceptible to bottoming out. The w-arm is the weak link of the proaction, and when it bottoms out the arm breaks easily.
 
yamaholic hit right on the nose. Very good description of how that suspension works.

What I have found with my mountain transfer straps is this: Way to much transfer, way to much center preload and way to much horse power results in way to much $$$.

My Sx600R has adjustable rods and with the right set up and adjustment screw all the way to the top it will stand about 2' in the air and hold it until it runs out of power.

Now my Rx1 has transfer straps and I had to pull them tighter to preload the rear to avoid it standing straight up and down. But also found that I had to remove preload in the front because it was tranfering so hard it would break the limiter straps. But with enough time wrenching they do dial in nicely. I run my rx1 about 1' to 1'-6" off the ground (ski lift) wide open up to 100 mph typically. Thats a rush! ;)!
 
yamaholic22 said:
By changing that gap you are essentially changing the rear to front coupling of the suspenion (decreasing it by making the gap bigger). This allows the rear arm to move independently of the front arm for a longer duration of the total travel of the arm. However, since the front arm is also allowed to move independently without the assistance of the rear arm, it is more susceptible to bottoming out. The w-arm is the weak link of the proaction, and when it bottoms out the arm breaks easily.

Yes, very nice description.

My question is, when the arms are allowed to act more independently of one another, won't the front shock need to be stiffened since the rear shock isn't sharing the load anymore? I assumed that this would fix the problem you describe of the w-arm breaking, since it wouldn't be allowed to bottom out.
 


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