Bender Piped Viper deep snow bog fix attempt one, pics and video

PowerValve-700

New member
Joined
May 2, 2003
Messages
389
Location
Labrador City, NL
Website
www.totallyamaha.com
Here is a video and pics of my custom stingers exiting through the side belly pan. I've tried them out and the sled has no more hesitation in deep snow any more. The sled seems to working OK but I assume I will probably have to re-jet. I never held it wide open for a long time just incase.

I call this my first attempt because it's too loud, I'd like to find a way to have the exhaust exiting through the side belly pan but still use the Bender silencers.

What do you guys think? Any advice on setting up and running straight pipes without blowing my motor? I will try to get a better, daytime video on my next days off.

Video:

http://media.putfile.com/Straight-Piped-Bender-Viper-
 

Attachments

  • 01.jpg
    01.jpg
    153.6 KB · Views: 23
  • 02.jpg
    02.jpg
    163.6 KB · Views: 25
  • 03.jpg
    03.jpg
    139.2 KB · Views: 25

when they see it!!! shoot, theres nothin silencing that thing on there! thats gotta get annoying after awhile! i agree tho, looks killer!!!
 
Ok, Enough with the Bashing on the people who steal ideas.... How does it work?? does it fix the BOG, Does it ADD HP, Does it STEAL HP, Does it perform like S-H-iT?!! i seen you on the lake RAZZIN and it sounded half decent. seemd liek it was working sick!
 
Thanks guys

2ooosrx said:
You custom make those yourself?

Me and a couple buds, my buddy did the welding, I have no welding skills.

I won't be using these pipes in town or on the trails, maybe for racing. But I'm really look for a fix for the bog created by the exhaust plugging up when off trail riding. So far this works.

I'm not too particular because I only got to get through this season and the Viper may get transformed into a strictly race sled.
 
I knew you'd like it AJ ;) So far it seems like it doesn't affect performance, seems to run the same as with the Bender silencers, but like I said I never held it wot for a long time. I'm still learning about 2-stroke performance, I assume with proper jetting there could be a small HP gain? Maybe not? I could just be riding a time bomb. I'm hoping some real good tuners will chime in and give me their opinion.

Nothing is lost if I decide to take them off, except for a huge hole in the belly pan that I can just put a sticker over lol.
 
Funny thing is I tried this last year except I ran pieces of pipe straight down through the stock exit and it didn't work as well.

It was really slapped together though, holes in it everywhere, nothing sealing up exhaust was comming back up through and getting sucked into the air box, I took them off and never thought nothing about it after.

I though I'd try it again except exit them through the side, maybe the sharp 90* bend is creating the right amount of back pressure?
 
STRAIGHT PIPE IT IS!!!!!!! Neil, My right ear is still poping every time i open my jaw... Ohh man that is funn! thanks for the Test Try! let me know how the silencer works.. as for preformance wise... OHHH MAN!!! i'd love a ol fashion cop chase:D
 
adj stingers

your not going to really gain performance unless some dyno time is spent or timers used and start to adjust the back press. to the correct level, you need a way to regulate the back press. The old way of doing it is welding bolts and nuts that are 1/2 the size of the inside diameter of the stinger, you then slowly and with keeping track, start to close off the stinger by turning in the bolt, this is reducing the stinger size and creating more back pres., until the burn is correct on the piston dome, it is going out so fast right now your going to actually lose heat out of the pipe and piston crown. your pistons will most likley wash all the carbon off and show a shiny aluminum color if run for any amont of time. You have to be very carefull tuning in the stinger as if you go too tight, you will get whats called "death ash" in the piston,(your overheating the piston crown) you see what your changing in essence is the amount of heat retained in the crown, and next time you tear apart a engine look up in the inside of the dome, you want the spot in the center to be a rich chocolate brown color, if its dry black too hot if its all oily and nothing there too cold, if its grey and flaky-"death ash", you know what that means!

I ran these on my thundercat on the asphalt with good results, heres a pic of the bolt/nut method I am describing, good luck and be sure to keep track of your adjustments!! wath the crown closely, and really you should pull a cylinder when done and check your bottom side of the crown for the correct burn!
 
mrviper700 said:
your not going to really gain performance unless some dyno time is spent or timers used and start to adjust the back press. to the correct level, you need a way to regulate the back press. The old way of doing it is welding bolts and nuts that are 1/2 the size of the inside diameter of the stinger, you then slowly and with keeping track, start to close off the stinger by turning in the bolt, this is reducing the stinger size and creating more back pres., until the burn is correct on the piston dome, it is going out so fast right now your going to actually lose heat out of the pipe and piston crown. your pistons will most likley wash all the carbon off and show a shiny aluminum color if run for any amont of time. You have to be very carefull tuning in the stinger as if you go too tight, you will get whats called "death ash" in the piston,(your overheating the piston crown) you see what your changing in essence is the amount of heat retained in the crown, and next time you tear apart a engine look up in the inside of the dome, you want the spot in the center to be a rich chocolate brown color, if its dry black too hot if its all oily and nothing there too cold, if its grey and flaky-"death ash", you know what that means!

I ran these on my thundercat on the asphalt with good results, heres a pic of the bolt/nut method I am describing, good luck and be sure to keep track of your adjustments!! wath the crown closely, and really you should pull a cylinder when done and check your bottom side of the crown for the correct burn!


Meow! :Moon:
 
ya, ok comin from a guy on a "polaris".......LOL!!!


LMAO ...I didnt realize Hauck powersports supported Polaris too.............! :yrules:
 


Back
Top