tunnel...how harD?

auji700triple

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May 2, 2005
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i was thinking about another idea on my viper

im getting my hood done black and im going to get my t-arms and radious rods powder coated black and suspension, i was wondering how hard to get the tunnel by itself and send out or get it done in town... lots of rivets??? thanks!!
 

ohh you have no idea. PAIN IN THE A$$. aproximately 4 million rivets to drill, grind or punch. its not worth it. you have to take airbox, carbs, chaincase, skid, seat and tanks, jackshaft all out. basically the whole works. Polish it up and get her bling bling and call it good.
 
1badz - LoL, dont remind me. im still trying to get over it really but like you said nothing but some relaxation and beer time to bounce back... feels good to kick at her again.

SpartaSXR - the only thing i have in my sled right now is...Carb rack. i have nothing inside my sled, emtpy. its outside with a tarp over it with no hood on it, engine in it, airbox, seat nodda! ahaha so really its not a big deal. im gonna turn her into a Nightfire like the firecats, but better... im sure i can do it, shoudn't be that much of a problam.. Polsihing takes too much time for the shine to stay. Other words it gets dirty fast and is a WASTE of time unless you maintaine it.. and i dont think i can maintain it with the amount of snow we get here! Skid is getting taken out anywas, thats getting a Powder coatin aswell :D :D

Anyone want to give some ideas on how to staart on it.?
 
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to save a lot of time and carpal tunnel (however the heck you spell it) take a skinny punch and knock out all of the steel shafts out of the rivets. don't know if you call it top-side or bottom but if you hit from one side, the little steel shafts shoot right out the other side. only takes one tap and the shafts out. now that the steel shaft is out its just aluminum left and that should be as easy as cuttin butter with the drill. just watch how deep you go with the drill bit so you don't drill bigger holes in your tunnel. i usually take a drill thats larger than the hole and just drill it so the flat "head" comes off and the back side just falls off. almost like grinding it flat to the tunnel if you will. you also wanna watch it when you get at the head cuz sometimes the rivets will spin with the bit and you won't cut anything and thats a pain cuz you gotta hold the back side (if you can) to get it off. also bad if it spins and its holding plastic cuz it will melt. if you got all that you say off then i say your 80% done to gettin it off. also, when you powder coat, don't powder coat the heat exchangers cuz it will limit its ability to transfer the heat as well. instead, anodize the exchangers black. some claim that a certain anodizing process helps to enhance the exchangers ability to transfer heat. hope this helps!!! good luck, take your time and walk away when you get frustrated. if you walk away, you'll enjoy workin more and you will do better quality work. good luck!!!
 
yeah grinding the heads off with a grinder I found to be the most efficient and effective way. also get one of those BIG riveters. It will save your hands. good luck
 
When you rivet it back together use steel steel rivets there alot stronger but a little harder to put in, but if you can get your hands on a air rivet gun thats the way to go. Its a #$%&* pain to seperate your tunnel from your bulk head! but if you stick with it its not to bad if you do little by little. I had to do it when i put a new bulk head in.
:nos:
 


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