How Do You Fog????

D

Diceman

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Joined
Nov 13, 2005
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160
Location
New Hamburg, Ontario
I read previous posts about fogging your engine for the summer. I understand why you fog but could someone give me detailed instructions on how to do it. As detailed as possible. There are some general instructions I have read but I am not mechanically inclined at all so just pretend you are telling a guy who was just dropped out of outer space . I own a 98 V-MAX XTC 700. Thanks Diceman
 
ok remove the screws in the top of the airbox and remove the top and the guts of the airbox(there is a piece between the top and the bottom). warm the engine up the running temp. Take your fogging oil and doush each carb individually for 30-60 secs but dont let it die. it will want to foul out on you but dont let it until each cylinder5 is done. it's also a good idea to take the plugs out and spray each hole down good.(with the engine off of course). reassemble and it's basically done. hope this helps.
 
SpartaSXr said:
ok remove the screws in the top of the airbox and remove the top and the guts of the airbox(there is a piece between the top and the bottom). warm the engine up the running temp. Take your fogging oil and doush each carb individually for 30-60 secs but dont let it die. it will want to foul out on you but dont let it until each cylinder5 is done. it's also a good idea to take the plugs out and spray each hole down good.(with the engine off of course). reassemble and it's basically done. hope this helps.
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Thanks for the info. I was told by someone that you had to fog all carbs at the same time, is that true? Also as you stated, when you are fogging each carb for 30 seconds to a minute are you suppose to give a continuous spray or just random sprays? Once the fogging is done I assume that is when you drain gas and run the sled dry. After fogging it does running the sled to get all the gas burned out screw up the fogging if you run it to long? Lastly I also read you should drain the carbs, is this done easily ? How is that done? Thanks guys . Diceman
 
I've read a couple posts now on fogging and I gotta say I have never done this and I have owned many sleds for many years now. I just start them up in the garage and run them up to temp on the stand every few weeks. It keeps everything lubed up and you don't get flat bearings at all. Gets the fuel in the bowls changed. I could see if you r sled was going into storage a more than 60 miles away or something. In the fall just before the snow hits, I go through from top to bottom and then ride. You also get the added bonus of stinking up the neighborhood with 2-stroke smoke for awhile. Just my$.02.
 
taylzee said:
I've read a couple posts now on fogging and I gotta say I have never done this and I have owned many sleds for many years now. I just start them up in the garage and run them up to temp on the stand every few weeks. It keeps everything lubed up and you don't get flat bearings at all. Gets the fuel in the bowls changed. I could see if you r sled was going into storage a more than 60 miles away or something. In the fall just before the snow hits, I go through from top to bottom and then ride. You also get the added bonus of stinking up the neighborhood with 2-stroke smoke for awhile. Just my$.02.
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I hear ya. As a newbie to this summerizing thing I have heard both sides. Some say it is a must but others say it is not needed. I talked to one guy who has had sleds with over 20 k on them and he never fogged. Does what you said you did. Others however say the worse thing you can do is start the sled in the summer. As a newcomer it is confussing. Would still like my last post on this thread answered. Thanks Diceman
 
Just try to understand what is happening:

The start method every two weeks - Float bowls always have new fuel in them, cylinders are always lubed, no mice have time to get in, its like winter all year round to the engine PROVIDED YOU LET IT GET WARM

The store method - Sled sits for 4-5 months, fuel in bowls starts to breakdown and leave a residue on the jets, Cylinders may get some condensation on them and start little rust spots, bearnings may start to rust from the condensation, etc

Now if you use stable in the gas and fog the engine you can minmize the possibility of some the above issues. After its fogged don't run till your ready to get her going in the fall again. Likewise if you choose the start method DO NOT forget to start it, then it progresses into the store method without the countermeasures you could have put in place.

Just understanding whats happening with the sled helps me to decide, I'm a fog and store kind of guy, but this summer I may be doing some engine work so it may be different but normally I don't want to see it until fall otherwise I start twitching in the 90 degree sun :)
 
my lazy guy fogging technique is to let the sled warm up, then pull the oil injection cable untill it fouls out. then clean the plugs while I'm thinking about it.
 
Stabil......it WORKS!!!!!!!!!!!

I use it in all my sleds i use double dose and leave gas in the tank and
in the carbs,,Ive been doing this for many,many years in my stuff and not
one single problem ever!!! they always start right up and run great all
season long....good stuff it works.

Stabil_r4_c2.jpg
 
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Daman, Have you ever taken your carbs apart to inspect for tarnishing or clogged jets?? I also use stabil, twice the recommended dosage amounts. I had a clogged jet one season. Luckily, it was caught before the sled and myself had a meltdown.

YS
 
YamiSmurf said:
Daman, Have you ever taken your carbs apart to inspect for tarnishing or clogged jets?? I also use stabil, twice the recommended dosage amounts. I had a clogged jet one season. Luckily, it was caught before the sled and myself had a meltdown.

YS
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Not in the last 4-5 years....the last time i did it was a big waist of my time
because every thing was clean and shinny as new...When i use it i drain
all the old gas out and mix up nice freash 89 octain and stabil,then put
like 2-3 gals in and run it till i think the new freash mix is in everything.

Then i do my fogging....

Like i said NEVER any carb. problems.............................
 
I like to use a siphon pump and get all the gas out of the tank then run it till the gas is out of the carbs and then spray some fogging oil into the spark plug holes. My sleds have always started up and ran nice in the fall with fresh gas in them. Has worked for 20 some yrs. Just my 2 cents
 
maxout01 said:
What is the best thing to do to summerize a sled that will be started periodically to move around in the summer??
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every time you start it make shure you let it warm up GOOD. real warm
to hot,,so you burn any condesation that may have formed.
 
daman said:
every time you start it make shure you let it warm up GOOD. real warm
to hot,,so you burn any condesation that may have formed.
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Combustion causes codensation look at your cars exhaust after you first start it up and see the trickle of H2o. If you're using the start method it is So Important to let the engine come up to operating temp.so, all the moisture will dry up . If you stabil your gas in June after 2 months, of letting the octane evaporate then you're stablizing Old Gas ! I also, stablize with fresh gas and allow and it to run until you're sure it has reached the carbs. I also vote for pulling the oil pump cable until it starts to smoke like crazy then shut her down and then add a little to the plug holes and slowly pull her over. Slowly pull the recoil every month helps to keep the oil moved around. I personally am Not a fan of running her dry of gas especially, if you're in a damp enviroment have you, ever seen the white aluminum oxidization that can form on the inside of (dry) carb float bowls (been there). What ever method you use always remember it's the moisture that is your engines enemy.
 
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I use sea foam instead of stabil and I have found it to better. I also use sea foam in my oil just before changeing it and it cleans everything there also.
 
Ok one more questions for the pros here....I will like to know how you pull the oil pump cable and where is it and how it looks like on an 1999 sx 600. and if you do that, should I still fogg it.....thanks always guys....

And last but not least how the hell do you know when the sled gets to a good temp whitout having a temp gauge......sorry is this a stupid question....should i touch the pipe and burn my hand off...LOL thanks guys for any info
:yam:
 
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the oil pump cable goes from the trottle to the oil pump. by pulling on the cable, you take all the slack out of it. the pump is fooled into believing you've got the thottle pagged, so it pumps more oil into the engine.

if your fllorboards are warm, the thermostat has opened, so your sled is at operating temperature.
 
Nicko said:
Ok one more questions for the pros here....I will like to know how you pull the oil pump cable and where is it and how it looks like on an 1999 sx 600. and if you do that, should I still fogg it.....thanks always guys....

And last but not least how the hell do you know when the sled gets to a good temp whitout having a temp gauge......sorry is this a stupid question....should i touch the pipe and burn my hand off...LOL thanks guys for any info
:yam:
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When you fogg you don't need to pull the pump,,the fogging oil is
plenty belive me....
 
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