Mtn Viper
Under load and intermittently at that the warning light and icon will flash a few time then as soon as I let off it'll stop. Gauge is fogged a bit so I can't tell if it's the engine or temp icon.
Both side coolers and the rear cooler get hot the front as well.
Hose is the clutch well of the belly pan doesn't seem to be getting as warm as the resevior hose or as hard as I would think it would be when filled with pressurised coolant.
Put the machine on the tilt trailer with the nose up and pull the bleed bolt at the carb heat "switch" absolutely nothing happens. No coolant, no nothing.
Coolant rezzie level also does not fluctuate, stays right at cold full.
t-housing gets warm,t housing hoses get warm
Rezzie does not seem to be making pressure as top can be pulled hot with no
problems.
Do I need to : pull the clutch well hose
rebleed rear cooler (it is getting hot)
figure out a way to pressurize the system and pull the
bleed bolt again
crack the block drain bolt
other
I'm at a loss here boys and girls someone help me out, Please.
Erik
Under load and intermittently at that the warning light and icon will flash a few time then as soon as I let off it'll stop. Gauge is fogged a bit so I can't tell if it's the engine or temp icon.
Both side coolers and the rear cooler get hot the front as well.
Hose is the clutch well of the belly pan doesn't seem to be getting as warm as the resevior hose or as hard as I would think it would be when filled with pressurised coolant.
Put the machine on the tilt trailer with the nose up and pull the bleed bolt at the carb heat "switch" absolutely nothing happens. No coolant, no nothing.
Coolant rezzie level also does not fluctuate, stays right at cold full.
t-housing gets warm,t housing hoses get warm
Rezzie does not seem to be making pressure as top can be pulled hot with no
problems.
Do I need to : pull the clutch well hose
rebleed rear cooler (it is getting hot)
figure out a way to pressurize the system and pull the
bleed bolt again
crack the block drain bolt
other
I'm at a loss here boys and girls someone help me out, Please.
Erik
taylzee
New member
First off, there shouldn't be that much pressure on the system.
Secondly, I have had much better luck bleeding everything with the sled running. I make sure the back end is the highest point on a stand and run the machine with a few revs to get her pumping good then open the bleed screw on the rear exchanger. I will do the same process with the front of the sled.
The carb bleed is probably the tuffest one to do but it is similar. It may take a few repetitions of this sequence to get all the air out. The last time I had my head off it took me 4 runs to get all the air out.
It can be a pain so be patient.
Secondly, I have had much better luck bleeding everything with the sled running. I make sure the back end is the highest point on a stand and run the machine with a few revs to get her pumping good then open the bleed screw on the rear exchanger. I will do the same process with the front of the sled.
The carb bleed is probably the tuffest one to do but it is similar. It may take a few repetitions of this sequence to get all the air out. The last time I had my head off it took me 4 runs to get all the air out.
It can be a pain so be patient.
snoviper19
New member
There is a bleed screw on the rear of the sled. remove the seat, then you will see it on the pipe that joines the left and right. Raise the rear of the sled up about 6-8 inches pour coolant into the res until the coolant comes out. Problem sould be solved.
Just to Clarify
Sled was running at the time which is why i was expecting a mess.
Rear cooler is hot so there should be no bubble there, correct?
I guess I can jack the rear end up and bleed the cooler if necessary.
Sled was running at the time which is why i was expecting a mess.
Rear cooler is hot so there should be no bubble there, correct?
I guess I can jack the rear end up and bleed the cooler if necessary.
It will take you several attempts with the rear bleed screw, but it WILL work. I have had LOTS of experience with this very issue. The cure for me was raising the rear of the sled with a hoist and filling and burping several times to get all the air out. It has been 2 seasons now with the rear exchanger installed. Once the air was bled out entirely, no more overheating. I wish there was an easier way! I also tried the side to side roll and bleed method. Didn't have much luck with that though. Keep at it, youll get it.
Dave
Dave
bluewho
Active member
if the rear cooler is hot no it does not mean it is blead do as viper dave said but raise sled rear with a milk crate or hoist take out the rear bleeder and pour in coolant untill it comes out hole .put the bleeder and cap back on and run till rear is hot remove bleeder and look for small bubbles than put bleeder in and turn res cap half way than back bleeder out slowly because now it will barf.dont barf take the bleeder right out and pour more coolant in all the time the sled is running. starts to barf put the cap back on fast and put the bleader back in.it wont bleed untill you back the cap off or if you have a bad water pump or a stuck thermostat if vipers have them?just dont try to barf if the sled is to hot it burns like you no want.erik b said:
Anybody know where to get the vacumn tool the manual reccomends so that you can just suck out all the air? Sort of like a miti vac for brakes. Seems like it would be worth the investment if I could find one!
Got one at Napa yesterday for bleeding brakes. 33 bucks, makes bleeding brakes a breeze, and would work for this also. Maxdlx
