MountainMax
New member
I was looking at a speed shieve from Huack performance, it changes the angle on the inner primary clutch to allow more shift out, but they say to use one of 'their' helixes so it will clear, I already have a bender roller rooster genII secondary installed and wondered if it would work with this, anyone know if it will be ok???
bufalobob
Member
i run overdrive clutching on my trail & race sleds & use roller roosters on all. no machining needed.
stock secondary must cut the helix on a lathe for belt clearance.
stock secondary must cut the helix on a lathe for belt clearance.
MountainMax
New member
Thanks, I thought I heard somewhere that all aftermarket helix's will support the overdrive primary shieve, just wanted to make sure.
vmax
New member
- Joined
- Aug 14, 2003
- Messages
- 73
how does the Speed Shieve work anyway, is it worth the money ?
kovs
New member
speed shieve
im just taking a guess here but, but any money the speed shieve hauck is trying to sell is just off of a vk 540 , they run a 12 degreee angle instead of 14 so that tips the top in more and well your belt comes up higher. i will say i havent tried one, but it might be worth a shot, i custom machine mine for overdrive on our lathe so i get full shift out
im just taking a guess here but, but any money the speed shieve hauck is trying to sell is just off of a vk 540 , they run a 12 degreee angle instead of 14 so that tips the top in more and well your belt comes up higher. i will say i havent tried one, but it might be worth a shot, i custom machine mine for overdrive on our lathe so i get full shift out
Mac
Member
Kovs, Help me understand. How will the angle of the primary make the belt shiff any higher. I thought the cluch would have to close more to push the belt up higher. Won't changing the angle only give less contact with the belt. --mac--
kovs
New member
shieve angle
you have a good point, but thats not so , b/c of there being less angle the top of the shieve is already closer, and your belt actually grips the shallower angle better. if i could draw on here i would show u how that works, but take a paper, and draw a vert line on it, and from that mark a point and draw a 12 and 14 angle, see how much difference there is at the top end,
you have a good point, but thats not so , b/c of there being less angle the top of the shieve is already closer, and your belt actually grips the shallower angle better. if i could draw on here i would show u how that works, but take a paper, and draw a vert line on it, and from that mark a point and draw a 12 and 14 angle, see how much difference there is at the top end,
MountainMax
New member
I wa thinking about just cutting my shieve myself but was told that it would cause the belt to be partially enguaged all the time and I would have to change my center to center distance, by buying theirs I canjust bolt it on, it lets it shift out like stock but allows for taller gearing all built in one, if I just gear up , i get a boggier start off, this way i get the best of both worlds.
kovs
New member
speedy
my clutch in not partially engaged at all, in fact the belt is further away from the face than a non machined shieve, there was alot of thought and planning in this idea, it works but u have to know what u are doin and whats the limit. turk has done them as well, cuz i talked to him about it and what he did
my clutch in not partially engaged at all, in fact the belt is further away from the face than a non machined shieve, there was alot of thought and planning in this idea, it works but u have to know what u are doin and whats the limit. turk has done them as well, cuz i talked to him about it and what he did