what clutch setup should I use with 51/43 Helix

bluemonster1

bluemonster1

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I am installing a 51/43 Dalton Helix later on my 2001 SX600R.Have done head gasket mod,installed Carbon Fibre Reeda and spaceer. Run 1 1/4 RipSaw track with 19/39 gearing.Also will be installing a Sno Stuff Can and a Tempa Flo in the near future.What weights should I try in the primary and if any rivets,what gram sizes.Last season tried many variations with rivets on the stock weights. Didn't get rpm's where I wanted ...only about 8200-8300 WOT.Like to try a different set-up that might of worked good for some of you 600's out there. :yam: ;):D drinking helps
 
I have a ’99 SX 600 with the head gasket mod, drilled can, and mod air box, 1.00” polaris track with 96 Woody’s Excel studs down the center and 19/40 gears. I used Turk’s aggressive trail clutch setup from the tech pages and like the results. Just for fun I entered a 1,000 radar run on ice and ended up winning the 600 improved and 700 stock classes with four passes at or above 97mph. I think it would have been much faster but it was 48 degrees out that day and the ice was really soft. It revs to 8,500 rpm and holds there pretty consistently but, I am going to lighten the 8CA weights he suggests using by removing the inner rivet because I still have a slight low-end clutch related bog. The second reason I am going to remove the inner rivet is because I am going to be installing a camo predator 1.25” track this fall and I think the primary is going to have to shift-out a little bit slower because of the added grip I am going to get with this track. After you put your 1.25” track in did you find that you had to gear down or change the shift-out of your clutching significantly?
Mills
 
Turk toldme because of the 1 1/4 track I will lose some speed and suggested to gear down and seems to work well.Sled is really pulling with that gear all the way.Just can't get my rpm up to where it should be.Still I go 165km/h on a good day,couldn't get that before I geared down.It is also easier on the clutch this way to that it will fully shift out.Love the snap it has for sure.I have stock weights now...just waiting to see if anyone has a better setup. :WayCool:
 
If I can remember when I last drove it,out of the hole reving about 8600..maybe 8700. Levels off to 8500 to end and slowly drops off to 8200-8300 wot..That time ran stock weights with 4.5 inner and 3.6 outer. Secondary stock at 80 degrees. I will install a 51/43 helix that I just bought from one of our members..should be here in about 10 days.It was suggested to me with what I have done with this machine to run 89-L weights. What do you think.I don't have an y spec sheets on the 89-L weights.How many grams would they be?
 
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I think just the helix change will get you pretty close... may have to change the 3.6 tip rivet to a 3.1... that's about 200 rpm right there so just try the helix swap and see how you are going from there... I don't know if the 600 will pull 89L's or not... my piped 600 would only pull 8500 with a 41* helix... but the narrower torque curve with pipes is probably the culprit of that.

I'm the kind of person that can only help you if I know what your sled is doing currently. Others have all the knowledge right up front. The downside to that is that you probably can't go riding anymore to test it out... so I won't be much help until next snowfall lol!.

Oh ya the 89L's are a 43gram base weight.
 
Well thanks ChangeUp for the info. When the next riding season approaches ,I will get in contact with you to let you know what is happening at that point.Thanks and enjoy the summer. By the way,took my 700 Maxim out for a spin and boy did it ever feel good going thru them gears.See ya sooner or later. :rockon: vrooom vrooom............................
 

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ChangeUp.I did run my stock weights of34.26 grams and both holes with 4.5 rivets which gives me a total of43.26 grams and was not getting more then 8200 rpm at top.You seem to think that the 89-L would still be to heavy?
 
Yep. If you go down to 3.1 grams... that is about 1.5 grams on the tip. (1 gram total in the primary is between 100 and 150 rpm... that is 1 gram total between all weights, not 1 gram of each weight like some think) so Turk is right... as usual lol.

So try going to a 3.1 in the tip with that 51/43 and you should be really close. After that it should just be fine tuning with the secondary spring.

I think going to a 2.7 is overkill... but if that helix is still too steep you may need them.

Otherwise I think you should be all set!
 
I was also told to try 8dn-10 with 4.5 or 3.6 in tip. Told they would be better then stock weights and will get better top end. What you think. It is all testing and testing.I still will try stock weights with 3.1 in tip and see.I'll probably get some 8dn-10 and extra rivets before next driving season.I'd rather drive then stop and change things..go and then stop and change things over and over until I get it right. I know everyone's sled performs different,everyone weighs different,snow conditions are different...etc.It is all trial and error.
 
8DN-10's will work well... but although I currently don't have any experience with these weights... I can guess that a 4.5 will be way too much. I would think you would want to try something like a 2.7 in the centre and a .8 in the tip just to start and see where you are from there. It should be close. If you can get any more help by experienced people with your sled and those weights... i would do it. These are the next weights I am going to try after some 8ek's though. If you can find the right rivet combo it will be a very good setup. Sorry I don't have any more info... but like I said I have 0% experience with these weights and will have to get working on them... just don't want to tell you to put something in that I haven't worked on.

Good Luck
 
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600 clutching

Here's another idea. This is a set up we've found to work very well on the same year of 600:
8DN-20 Weights with no rivets.
Stock Y-G-Y spring
4 engagments shims Yamaha part #90201-45592. Are .025" each or .100" total. This makes engagment same as stock.

This gets rid of the over rev through launch and stay at 8,500 to 8,600 all the way through shift out. Sled has reeds and spacers, a 1-1/4 rip saw but other wise is all stock. It will hit 100mph + on the speedo and works well on trails too.

Good luck. :WayCool:
 
If I put in the 8dn-20's empty with my 51/43 helix,will I actually get a under rev.Maybe better using 8dn-10's and experiment with the rivets.Need to not over rev in the hole shot,but remain a constant 8500-8600 rpm range all the way to the top.
 
Hey Blue.

I used 8CHs last year and had great results. I believe I started with a 3.3gram rivet in the inner hole and a 2.4 gram rivet in the outer hole. Although I did do some grinding of the outer rivet to drag down my top end RPMs (bought a digital gram scale. Really Helps). I believe my total weight was around 42 grams exactly ( the weight of the bushing is not included in Yamaha's specs for some reason?). I was running a 52/42 helix, although mine was a roller secondary.

I plan on using 89Ls this year but I'm piping the sled so that's what TURK recommends.

If you need a set of 8CHs, let me know, I have a spare set! I'll give you a good deal. You know where I live!!

Cheers,

Len

P.S. PM Turk with your specific info and I'm sure he can recommend a great setup. He has a wealth of knowledge (and a fellow Manitoban).
 
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