S.S.Viper
New member
Hey Ya'll...
Curious..I'm storing the ole Viper away for another summer...Last
year I just topped up the fuel and put some stabilizer in there...and
started it up from time to time...
This year I'm thinking of draining it all and fogging the cylinders and
putting a trickel SolarPanel on the battery and tuck it under my work bench...
Curious as to which way is better...I've heard if you do start it in the summer
you should run it for awhile so condensation doesn't happen...however...I don't wanna draw too much attention to my garage...
Curious on any suggestions or what do you do to store your machine..
cheers
YOP
Curious..I'm storing the ole Viper away for another summer...Last
year I just topped up the fuel and put some stabilizer in there...and
started it up from time to time...
This year I'm thinking of draining it all and fogging the cylinders and
putting a trickel SolarPanel on the battery and tuck it under my work bench...
Curious as to which way is better...I've heard if you do start it in the summer
you should run it for awhile so condensation doesn't happen...however...I don't wanna draw too much attention to my garage...
Curious on any suggestions or what do you do to store your machine..
cheers
YOP
daman
New member
S.S.Viper said:Hey Ya'll...
Curious..I'm storing the ole Viper away for another summer...Last
year I just topped up the fuel and put some stabilizer in there...and
started it up from time to time...
This year I'm thinking of draining it all and fogging the cylinders and
putting a trickel SolarPanel on the battery and tuck it under my work bench...
Curious as to which way is better...I've heard if you do start it in the summer
you should run it for awhile so condensation doesn't happen...however...I don't wanna draw too much attention to my garage...
Curious on any suggestions or what do you do to store your machine..
cheers
YOP
Stabil and fogg, leave the gas in, been doing that forever not one problem
ever.....
kinger
VIP Member
^^^ times 2, also spray a little in the cylinders replace plugs and your goo dfor 6 months or so
daman
New member
kinger said:^^^ times 2, also spray a little in the cylinders replace plugs and your goo dfor 6 months or so
yup very good thing to do to!!!!
1badz
New member
- Joined
- Nov 19, 2005
- Messages
- 179
I always drain as much gas from the tank as possible. I've read that gas kinda goes "dead"
even when you use stabilizer; it only takes a few minutes, and it's not like you have to throw it away.
even when you use stabilizer; it only takes a few minutes, and it's not like you have to throw it away.
98srx6
New member
daman
New member
1badz said:I always drain as much gas from the tank as possible. I've read that gas kinda goes "dead"
even when you use stabilizer; it only takes a few minutes, and it's not like you have to throw it away.
I've never had gas go bad with stabil, in the sleds, mower, snowblower etc.
never any problems always starts and run great all season long.
I also use double the dose and fresh gas.
Last edited:
BETHEVIPER
Life Member
the gas doesnt go bad, it just looses octane, even with stable. would you ride your sled with 75octane if they sold it?
this is the complete list
grease all fittings to get water out of them
remove and grease all wheels to get the water out of them
remove your skis,
remove and grease lower ski spindle shaft and or replace bushings and shaft(as no one ever does this)
put the skis back on
fill oil tank
fill gas tank (a full tank will not allow condensation of water)
add stable,
run for a few minutes,
flood the engine with wd-40 or engine fog,
shut the sled down while still fogging,
remove plugs and spray down hole while turning sled over one revolution by hand,
put the plugs back in with fingers,
spray caps, leave caps off
remove seat,
hang from corner,
make sure there is a hole in the lower corner and hang for the summer if you can, most of the water that is in there will drip out(someday, eventually)
remove your clutches and clean them, polish them, look at them
clean and spray both the crank and jack shaft
loosen track up
remove drive shaft bearing, clean and grease and/or replace (loosening the track is more for removing the bearing but it probly is better for the track to not have tension )
now spray down everything in engine compartment with silicone too keep corrosion down and this will make it easier to clean engine compartment in the fall, if your into that
come spring you will need to:
drain gas, add gas
remove plugs
pull over engine with key off
install plugs and caps
install clutches and belt
install seat
change oil in chaincase, inspect and adjust as needed
start up sled
adjust track tension
install big bore and nitros
your ready to go
if you dont do this, these are the problems you will face:
condinsation of water in tank from constant changes in temp(depending on storage)
bearings pitting from water that naturaly enters from use during the year
rusty or corroded shafts in the suspension will tear out bushings
rusting of spindle lower collar that will tear the bushings out and cause loose handling
clutches can corrode in odd places sitting on a sled, especially with the belt installed
rust can form behind the primary against the seal and tear the seal lip out
rust can form on the jack shaft and lock the clutch on so it cant float to the proper alignment
corrosion in plug caps
corrosion on exaust and other steel parts
the big bore and nitros that is just for your friends you ride with
this is the complete list
grease all fittings to get water out of them
remove and grease all wheels to get the water out of them
remove your skis,
remove and grease lower ski spindle shaft and or replace bushings and shaft(as no one ever does this)
put the skis back on
fill oil tank
fill gas tank (a full tank will not allow condensation of water)
add stable,
run for a few minutes,
flood the engine with wd-40 or engine fog,
shut the sled down while still fogging,
remove plugs and spray down hole while turning sled over one revolution by hand,
put the plugs back in with fingers,
spray caps, leave caps off
remove seat,
hang from corner,
make sure there is a hole in the lower corner and hang for the summer if you can, most of the water that is in there will drip out(someday, eventually)
remove your clutches and clean them, polish them, look at them
clean and spray both the crank and jack shaft
loosen track up
remove drive shaft bearing, clean and grease and/or replace (loosening the track is more for removing the bearing but it probly is better for the track to not have tension )
now spray down everything in engine compartment with silicone too keep corrosion down and this will make it easier to clean engine compartment in the fall, if your into that
come spring you will need to:
drain gas, add gas
remove plugs
pull over engine with key off
install plugs and caps
install clutches and belt
install seat
change oil in chaincase, inspect and adjust as needed
start up sled
adjust track tension
install big bore and nitros
your ready to go
if you dont do this, these are the problems you will face:
condinsation of water in tank from constant changes in temp(depending on storage)
bearings pitting from water that naturaly enters from use during the year
rusty or corroded shafts in the suspension will tear out bushings
rusting of spindle lower collar that will tear the bushings out and cause loose handling
clutches can corrode in odd places sitting on a sled, especially with the belt installed
rust can form behind the primary against the seal and tear the seal lip out
rust can form on the jack shaft and lock the clutch on so it cant float to the proper alignment
corrosion in plug caps
corrosion on exaust and other steel parts
the big bore and nitros that is just for your friends you ride with
Last edited:
daman
New member
When i store with stabil i use FRESH 92 octane, so it ain't going to degrade
that much in 7-8 months, plus i only put in like 2 gal. per sled, then come
winter when it's time to get them out i fill it up with fresh 92 for the first
tank then back down to 89 and go.......
that much in 7-8 months, plus i only put in like 2 gal. per sled, then come
winter when it's time to get them out i fill it up with fresh 92 for the first
tank then back down to 89 and go.......
98srx6
New member
daman said:When i store with stabil i use FRESH 92 octane, so it ain't going to degrade
that much in 7-8 months
That is a very inaccurate statement.
Way too many engines are burnt down at the beginning of winter due to running old gas from the previous season. All that you need to do is drain your tank at the start of your sledding season, put the old gas from last season in your car/truck/snowblower/etc. and fill your sled with fresh gas. This is way easier and cheaper than a rebuild.
daman
New member
98srx6 said:That is a very inaccurate statement.
Way too many engines are burnt down at the beginning of winter due to running old gas from the previous season. All that you need to do is drain your tank at the start of your sledding season, put the old gas from last season in your car/truck/snowblower/etc. and fill your sled with fresh gas. This is way easier and cheaper than a rebuild.
Yes that would work too... BUT,,,,,i've been doing this for 20 years mind you and not ONE burn down problem with ANYTHING!!!...not saying this is a rule BUT,,,, just my way!!!!!
Properly FRESH TREADED fuel will work fine.
Last edited:
BigMan76
Member
With gas prices where they are, I was more than happy to drain my tanks on the sleds and throw the gas in my car.
daman
New member
BigMan76 said:With gas prices where they are, I was more than happy to drain my tanks on the sleds and throw the gas in my car.
LOL....yea no kidding!!!!!
I always pull the carb float bowl plugs out to get the last bit of gas and sludge out.
This year was a real eye opener as all three plugs had rusty looking crud in them.
I'll inspect the carbs closely in the fall.
2datrl.
This year was a real eye opener as all three plugs had rusty looking crud in them.
I'll inspect the carbs closely in the fall.
2datrl.
kinger
VIP Member
Knowing I have to clean the carbs in the fall, I don't mess with them for summarizing.
I forgot in my first post but it was mentioned and that is greasing the baby, I can't believe the water that squirted out of the all the joint. That was the first time I ever greased in the spring and I will definitly continue that habit.
I forgot in my first post but it was mentioned and that is greasing the baby, I can't believe the water that squirted out of the all the joint. That was the first time I ever greased in the spring and I will definitly continue that habit.
daman
New member
kinger said:I forgot in my first post but it was mentioned and that is greasing the baby, I can't believe the water that squirted out of the all the joint. That was the first time I ever greased in the spring and I will definitly continue that habit.
yup that will happen, always a good idea to do that for summarizing.....
S.S.Viper
New member
Wow...Thanks guys...I've generally never greased my machine prior to storing..but
looked at it the other day and thought Hmmm..I should at least treat my baby right..and now that you guys said so..I'll look into it...hell..a few more hours girl won't
hurt...Thanks for all the input...
cheers
YOP
looked at it the other day and thought Hmmm..I should at least treat my baby right..and now that you guys said so..I'll look into it...hell..a few more hours girl won't
hurt...Thanks for all the input...
cheers
YOP
kysledneck
New member
FITCH FUEL CATALYST! PROBLEM SOLVED! No adding anything! Snow tech has them in EVERY sled! Octane has gone up while in storage!
maxout01
VIP Member
What is fiitch fuel catalyst?? Anyone that uses fogging method.. How much of the product do you use per sled?? Also is the pennzoil marine fogging oil the same thing a the stabil brand??
daman
New member
maxout01 said:What is fiitch fuel catalyst?? Anyone that uses fogging method.. How much of the product do you use per sled?? Also is the pennzoil marine fogging oil the same thing a the stabil brand??
I use yammie fogging oil....