Has anyone taken their Camo track,one with every third window closed,and just cut out the pad where the hole would be and run it without clipping it?With all the talk about people trying to get more life out of their sliders would'nt this be a viable way of getting more snow into the track and suspension area?I know there's alot of other factors to take in here,track tension,snow conditions etc,but this seems to be a simple way help the cause.Would a track withstand having the material cut out and not clipped?I was just curious,funny how stupid things go through your head just thinking of winter again.
This was talked about in the 4-stroke forum quite abit so you may want to confirm what I post here with a search over there.
There was a couplr ideas/solutions passed around. The ones I remember are:
1) Cut the windows out with a knife. Using a heated blade was suggested I think, as was going over the edges of the new windows with a propane or similar torch to "cauterize" the openings and prevent fraying. Some guys were adding clips, some weren't.
2) Use a 1" hole saw (or was it 1.25") in each window. Accomplishes the same thing with less 'work'. The heat from the hole saw helps "cauterize" the edges.
3) Use "Carriage" style bolts in the closed windows to reduce friction. I believe someone called them elevator bolts because they have a thinner head thickness than a regular carriage bolt. Some store/vendor is offering a bolt pack of these for this use.
Hope this helped or points you in the right direction.
There was a couplr ideas/solutions passed around. The ones I remember are:
1) Cut the windows out with a knife. Using a heated blade was suggested I think, as was going over the edges of the new windows with a propane or similar torch to "cauterize" the openings and prevent fraying. Some guys were adding clips, some weren't.
2) Use a 1" hole saw (or was it 1.25") in each window. Accomplishes the same thing with less 'work'. The heat from the hole saw helps "cauterize" the edges.
3) Use "Carriage" style bolts in the closed windows to reduce friction. I believe someone called them elevator bolts because they have a thinner head thickness than a regular carriage bolt. Some store/vendor is offering a bolt pack of these for this use.
Hope this helped or points you in the right direction.
Yamahammer485
Member
You can just cut the windows that were closed and leave them without being clipped. This works just fine.
Also, just thought id mention this, its actually really easy to cut the windows, all you need is a sharp carpenters knife. I used this anodized blue mastercraft one that has an action similar to that of a jack knife.
Funny thing that I noticed after cutting the windows, alot of my track ratcheting was emiminated, and same with my dads RSVenture. I guess the snow/water that would remain on the closed windows would build up against the sprockets, and let them slip by elvating the teeth over the inner lugs slightly and providing a low friction surface. Rubber and water is preety slipery.
Its a great idea to cut your windows, something that SHOULD have been done from camoplasts factory.
Also, just thought id mention this, its actually really easy to cut the windows, all you need is a sharp carpenters knife. I used this anodized blue mastercraft one that has an action similar to that of a jack knife.
Funny thing that I noticed after cutting the windows, alot of my track ratcheting was emiminated, and same with my dads RSVenture. I guess the snow/water that would remain on the closed windows would build up against the sprockets, and let them slip by elvating the teeth over the inner lugs slightly and providing a low friction surface. Rubber and water is preety slipery.
Its a great idea to cut your windows, something that SHOULD have been done from camoplasts factory.
skidooboy
New member
clipped every third was developed by camoplast to retain snow in the the track (less holes for it to fall out once inside), and reduce weight by removing 2/3 of the clips.
there are two schools of thought, no damage can occur by cutting the windows open, and the other is you should cut and clip the windows. there are lots of things to do to add more cooling to the hyfax.
remember rubber doesnt cure when it is heated, it devulcanizes or delaminates. most of the "heat" therory is to burn the frayed kevlar in the belts so they arent hanging out.
drilling the center belt in the track with a hole saw (porting the track) lets more snow out, further reducing weight of the track and again two schools of thought, lets more snow in, and lets more snow out keeping track hyfax and suspension clear of snow.
ski
there are two schools of thought, no damage can occur by cutting the windows open, and the other is you should cut and clip the windows. there are lots of things to do to add more cooling to the hyfax.
remember rubber doesnt cure when it is heated, it devulcanizes or delaminates. most of the "heat" therory is to burn the frayed kevlar in the belts so they arent hanging out.
drilling the center belt in the track with a hole saw (porting the track) lets more snow out, further reducing weight of the track and again two schools of thought, lets more snow in, and lets more snow out keeping track hyfax and suspension clear of snow.
ski
so when the tracks are listed as clipped every third that means that there is only openings at every third window?? How does the sprockets drive the track properly?? I haven't ever seen one like this..
skidooboy
New member
track drivers unless they are extroverts, drive off the inner lugs on the track not the holes in the track where the clips are. extroverts drive off the track holes requiring every window to be opened. ski
n2oiroc
New member
i have heard a few different ways of opening the windows. a chisel sounds like the best. and like doo boy said, just burn the loose cords, rubber DOES NOT like heat!
skidooboy said:
I know that part. I just meant that the buildup of snow and ice on the inside of the track would seem to cause the drivers problems. I don't know how I never knew they were closed, lol!
Although I've never bought a new track either.
skidooboy
New member
ever seen ice and snow "built up" on the inside of a track? the idlers and drivers do a good job of keeping the inside clean, plus with it being flexible rubber, not much sticks to it for very long. as for the new tracks, most sleds now come with clipped every third tracks stock now. you do have a choice when buying replacement tracks and some homework is required to get the best bang for your buck and riding style. ski
n2oiroc
New member
i have the same closed window ripsaw on my pro x as i did on my viper and its not an issue. yamahas just tend to rachet a LOT easier. my pro x doesnt rachet with 3" of slack, but the viper did with 1.5"! and btw hifax wear is good with the closed window tracks. my attak has 850 miles on it and the hifax look like new! conditions were poor too. a lot of riding with no snow and pure mud logging roads for miles on end on my last trip out!maxout01 said:I know that part. I just meant that the buildup of snow and ice on the inside of the track would seem to cause the drivers problems. I don't know how I never knew they were closed, lol!
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well all the info definitely helps me cause I think I will need a new track for next year. Thanks!!
Mac
Member
Track drilling
I'm in the market for a new track as well. I'm considering the new 1.5 ripsaw fully clipped with extroverts. The guys on snowwest that 2 inch hole drill their tracks report free horse power. I'm gona try this on my next track. Much improved rotation of the track and light weight. I'm also considering the 1.25 hacksaw. Any opinions?
I'm in the market for a new track as well. I'm considering the new 1.5 ripsaw fully clipped with extroverts. The guys on snowwest that 2 inch hole drill their tracks report free horse power. I'm gona try this on my next track. Much improved rotation of the track and light weight. I'm also considering the 1.25 hacksaw. Any opinions?
ak ryda
New member
DO NOT USE A 2" HOLE SAW TO DRILL YOUR TRACK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 1.25" in a 3 hole pattern across leaving equal space between the holes and the windows. Then be sure to use a plug in drill (sucks batteries in a hurry) and spray down the hole saw bit with WD-40 between holes, this is the best/most efficient/ideal way to do it. Also, build a jig and pilot hole first then come back through with the 1.25" hole saw. You do not need to take the track off or drop the rear skid. I just tipped my sled up on its side and went to town.
The method I used (thanks reeb) to cut out my windows so I could run extroverts was to pilot hole the 4 corners of the windows with a 0.25" bit, then using a exacto knife with the blade dipped in verrrrrry soapy hot water I just cut from hole to hole while dipping the blade between every cut. You dont need to remove the track or rear skid, just lift up your snow flap and work between the top idlers and rear axel. From absolute start to finish <30 minutes and was extremely easy.
The method I used (thanks reeb) to cut out my windows so I could run extroverts was to pilot hole the 4 corners of the windows with a 0.25" bit, then using a exacto knife with the blade dipped in verrrrrry soapy hot water I just cut from hole to hole while dipping the blade between every cut. You dont need to remove the track or rear skid, just lift up your snow flap and work between the top idlers and rear axel. From absolute start to finish <30 minutes and was extremely easy.
skidooboy
New member
akr is right, dont go cutting 2" holes in your new track. go to snowest.com and search track porting, track cutting, ect... lots of info. the three hole per lug space is common. most are running 1"-1.25" holes. dont go ballistic though in diameter or number of holes. i run my equipment in lots of deep snow, and run a three hole, 1 1/16" od holes. this mod is for deep snow and mountain riding mostly. trail riding low snow, dirt ect... may lessen track, hyfax and clip life. do your homework, find ALL info then make the decision. the mod is mostly for removing snow from the skid to make the sled lighter for getting unstuck. it "may" free up some rolling resistance but no one really knows for sure. my best method was to take the hole saw and on a grinder spin the saw blade and sharpen the outside edge of the saw to cut cleaner and faster. the big pain is getting the cut track out of the saw after each cut. cause if you dont each sequential hole becomes harder to cut, until you clear the saw of the material to allow more in. ski