SRXtrafast
New member
What's your opinion when comparing these two?
n2oiroc
New member
if you can swing the money the expert x is the way to go. the mono is a great ride (plush) but not great for agressive riding. the mono is very comparable to a m-10.
03viperguy
Moderator
I was going to go the bender route, but they wont return emails asking a few questions about it. guess I might do a set of ohlins in the old no-action instead...
SRXtrafast
New member
But for the price of a couple ohlins, wouldn't that be about the same as the Reacion? Could you find out the price of the ohlins and let me know 
[I've sent e-mails to Bender too requesting a catalog and even called w/no luck.]
[I've sent e-mails to Bender too requesting a catalog and even called w/no luck.]
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n2oiroc
New member
if your on a budget get an edge or sc10 III (under $400) and toss it in there. it will ride better than any pro action!
**sj**
Life Member
ohlins in a no-actionwaste of good money...
for 99% of all riders the bender setup is as good as an m-10 with transfer and no top end loss....plus they are supposed to have a great shock for it with tons of adjustability
for 99% of all riders the bender setup is as good as an m-10 with transfer and no top end loss....plus they are supposed to have a great shock for it with tons of adjustability
aSRX600guy
New member
I'd be very surprized if its as adjustable as the expert.
**sj**
Life Member
it's most likely not...but it's an easy install....and sell later.....and the expert offers no shock options...although the expert is a fairly easy sell or has been....as the oems get better...the value of the expert will diminish...
jimmie d
New member
sj said:
The Viper that I bought from Boomer has an Expert X with a remote clicker that adjusts both shocks.
I have ridden the Mono and had 3 different FAST M10s and by far prefer the M10 especially when it comes to longevity. Maybe the third year of the MONO will find it holding together. Wheels, hyfax,cracks,welds,zircs,
bottoming, adjustment problems.
Jim
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**sj**
Life Member
Jimmie...that's not fair...HIS expert is THE EXPERT....custom shocks and valving etc...
IMHO....m-10's sit too tall and create too much drag....gladly give up a little ride quality
IMHO....m-10's sit too tall and create too much drag....gladly give up a little ride quality
TopGunnSrx
New member
I love my expert. I dont see anything outlasting it in the quality department. No welded parts, the material used is very beefy, and it has taken everything i threw at it no problem. In all honesty I do feel the expert DID scrub off a little top end on my srx, but the way you can ride it and beat it it's worth it totally
Not to sure on the Bender kit.
Not to sure on the Bender kit.
03viperguy
Moderator
the ohlins will be about the cost of a mono from bender, but if I cant get any service from them then it would be useless. had hopes for the reaction, but ohlins would be a lot nicer in the stock skid for sure 
**sj**
Life Member
top gunn....is it a 121"? If I dont sell my 2000 srx (know anyone looking for a clean sled)....I'm dumping my snowcheck for an 07' attack gt.....then I'll need to do something for the rear skid....what kind of money...15-1600???
you and I live close...I'm in f hills...for now anyway
you and I live close...I'm in f hills...for now anyway
03viperguy said:the ohlins will be about the cost of a mono from bender, but if I cant get any service from them then it would be useless. had hopes for the reaction, but ohlins would be a lot nicer in the stock skid for sure
You won't be dissapointed if you get ohlins. They are definitely not a waste of money, just a huge improvement!
A set of used shocks can't be that expensive.
03viperguy
Moderator
heimdall, I take it you have a set? big improvement huh have you ridden anything else that it might be close to in terms of ride quality? any input is appreciated
have you ridden anything else that it might be close to in terms of ride quality? any input is appreciated
Yep i bought a set of ohlins before last season started. New ones would have cost me more than a third of what i bought my Viper for. That was never really an option. So i got in touch with a guy on a Swedish forum that had 4 ohlins for sale and ended up buying them for a decent price. Before i mounted them on the sled i got them rebuild, just in case they needed it. The total of the shocks and rebuild was only a third of what new ones costed
Anyway, i mounted them on my sled, full of expectations. But it didn't ride as good as i had hoped it would. Tried moving the FRA in the soft position. That worked great if you only would ride it on trails that were flat. As soon as it started to get a little bumpy, it would bottom out. Moved it to the hard position. Now it never bottomed out, but instead it was a pain to raid on the trails.
Now i was really irritated. Had spend alot of money on something that was supposed to be great, but wasn't that much better than my old KYB. That's when i turned to this site for help. Got great help from alot of peple, especially maxdlx and BETHEVIPER (BTV:s post is something that everyone with my kind of problem should read) and the sled worked awesome the rest of the winter. My rear shock is a piggyback with adjustable compression and rebound.
Sorry but i havent ride that much different sleds so i can compare it to something else. But i had no problem at all keeping my friends behind me when i got them dialed in The harsch ride is gone, i can finally ride it hard over the bumps that used to be a pain for my back.
My advice would be to find a set of used shocks and then send them for a rebuild. That would be a hell of alot cheaper then to change your suspension
Anyway, i mounted them on my sled, full of expectations. But it didn't ride as good as i had hoped it would. Tried moving the FRA in the soft position. That worked great if you only would ride it on trails that were flat. As soon as it started to get a little bumpy, it would bottom out. Moved it to the hard position. Now it never bottomed out, but instead it was a pain to raid on the trails.
Now i was really irritated. Had spend alot of money on something that was supposed to be great, but wasn't that much better than my old KYB. That's when i turned to this site for help. Got great help from alot of peple, especially maxdlx and BETHEVIPER (BTV:s post is something that everyone with my kind of problem should read) and the sled worked awesome the rest of the winter. My rear shock is a piggyback with adjustable compression and rebound.
Sorry but i havent ride that much different sleds so i can compare it to something else. But i had no problem at all keeping my friends behind me when i got them dialed in
The harsch ride is gone, i can finally ride it hard over the bumps that used to be a pain for my back.My advice would be to find a set of used shocks and then send them for a rebuild. That would be a hell of alot cheaper then to change your suspension
**sj**
Life Member
shocks and valving makes a big difference but the pro action suspension design is limited...yes it's all relative to what you just rode...ride a m-10 sled then jump on a ohlins modified proaction sled and tell me it rides good...lol
if you really are hellbent on changing your shocks...see if you can find a set of "works"...they are a lot less...but,it isnt the shocks so much as the geometry of the suspension..it's m-10 for best ride and expert close behind with best all around performance!
if you really are hellbent on changing your shocks...see if you can find a set of "works"...they are a lot less...but,it isnt the shocks so much as the geometry of the suspension..it's m-10 for best ride and expert close behind with best all around performance!
TopGunnSrx
New member
Mine is a 121" If you look around you can pick up a good used one for about 1g, thats what I did. If you wanted to you coudl come over and check it out. I got all my bars and stuff off right now putting the stock ones back on.sj said:
n2oiroc
New member
keep in mind the stock skid weighs 20+lbs more than almost any other one out there!03viperguy said:the ohlins will be about the cost of a mono from bender, but if I cant get any service from them then it would be useless. had hopes for the reaction, but ohlins would be a lot nicer in the stock skid for sure
SRXtrafast
New member
One pound of rotating mass=7 pounds of stationary mass,and isn't it correct that you gain 1hp for every 7-10pounds decrease in weight? If so, one could expect about 2-2.5 hp increase by taking out the stock skid. Is this accurate?