03 viper
Trouble code has been flashing underload, seems to be indicating powervalve problems, light stops as soon as the throttle is release,which makes counting flashes damn hard, sled wont pull RPM's on the hill down 500 on the last ride,300 prior,so it seems to be gettting worse. Hand warmers also no longer working. 80 bucks later the stealership tells me the servo motor is fine, but that my CDI unit could be the culprit and there is no way to test for it, short of swapping in a known good unit. WTF??? I'm not interested in spending 450 bucks on a new CDI to possibly fix the issue, not really interested in spending 150 on a used to possibly fix it. Any suggestions?
Trouble code has been flashing underload, seems to be indicating powervalve problems, light stops as soon as the throttle is release,which makes counting flashes damn hard, sled wont pull RPM's on the hill down 500 on the last ride,300 prior,so it seems to be gettting worse. Hand warmers also no longer working. 80 bucks later the stealership tells me the servo motor is fine, but that my CDI unit could be the culprit and there is no way to test for it, short of swapping in a known good unit. WTF??? I'm not interested in spending 450 bucks on a new CDI to possibly fix the issue, not really interested in spending 150 on a used to possibly fix it. Any suggestions?
viperking
Active member
i got a used one from an 02 for $125 if you want it and from all the posts i've seen about peoples cdi's being bad it sounds like yours has about the same symptoms as the peoples sleds that did have bad cdi's
The power valve servo motor is activated by the cdi box, so with the sled up on a jackstand support, start it up and see if the servo motor is cycling or not when ya rev it up over 6500rpm???, of course you have to have the black cover off to see, if its not cycling then you either have a bad cdi or servo, and usually its the cdi signal that fails. Also you say your handgrips quit working, check the feed wire with a digital voltmeter before the reostat dials, if you dont have voltage then yes, the cdi is bad. If you lose 1 grip they both quit working because they are hooked up inseries, just swap the wires to each grip if your voltage is good to find the bad grip. I have a used cdi if ya need one to test with.
mrviper700 said:
Thats what the dealer charged me 80 bucks to do. Sad thing is I knew the motor worked since I powered it up to adjust the powervalves I guess the wiggling back and forth was the "self cleaning" I thought the motor going or something. Apparently it only happens under load, as the tech didn't see the trouble code.This is why I hate diagnosing electrical gremlins.
You know if the Y.E.S coverage covers the CDI? I may want to take you up on that CDI, I'll pm you when I get it figured out.
mrviper700 said:
So what exactly should I be looking for when I bring over 6500?
Finally got drug into the garage and up on the stand.
Got the grips working again by reconnecting one of the bullets that had come loose when I went over the bars.
Started it up and ran it up to 6500-7000. Servo motor twitched and moved a bit but nothing like when it goes into selfclean below 900rpm. Should I be seeing more movement or is this what she should look like?
Still not enough snow here test it under load and of course it didn't throw the problem code on the stand.
put it on the stand and warm it up, then do full throttle pulls let it go to 8500rpm, if the servo isnt opening the valves then my guess is the cdi isnt sending a strong enuff signal to the servo motor to do the job.
The only thing I would check before replacing the cdi is the wiring harness, these things can do all sort of goofy stuff when they are chaffed thru.
The only thing I would check before replacing the cdi is the wiring harness, these things can do all sort of goofy stuff when they are chaffed thru.
Verified that the powervalves are functioning, at least under no load conditions. Threw the blinking light once but only for a few blinks.
Wrapped the harness in convoluted tubing when I yanked the motor to rebuild it and the harness looked fine.
I am down to wondering if the timing is off and is causing issues. Can anybody explain what I should be looking for, timing mark wise? The service manual tells me what the advance should be but not what the mark looks like. I'd like to check timing without first pulling the recoil to see what the freking timing mark looks like.
Wrapped the harness in convoluted tubing when I yanked the motor to rebuild it and the harness looked fine.
I am down to wondering if the timing is off and is causing issues. Can anybody explain what I should be looking for, timing mark wise? The service manual tells me what the advance should be but not what the mark looks like. I'd like to check timing without first pulling the recoil to see what the freking timing mark looks like.
u need to put a top dead center indicator in cyl #1 and went you find your top dead center just put a line on your primary clutch and on the base this will be your zero degree after that check the timming with a timing light